1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

how to fix the GSL-SE after it was used as an amphibious vehicle

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Old Dec 24, 2005 | 10:36 PM
  #26  
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I hope you let it run for awhile when you got home and didnt just park it because if there was still water in the housings...lets just say the rust in your wheel wells will be the least of your worries...
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Old Dec 25, 2005 | 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Lee Lyons
I hope you let it run for awhile when you got home and didnt just park it because if there was still water in the housings...lets just say the rust in your wheel wells will be the least of your worries...
im curious how I would've gotten water into the housings? is there a location where water could've entered the engine? the water wasn't that high..granted it wasn't too shallow either..the depth was a few inches below the bottom of my doors..so basically ankle height..the water definately splashed the starter but the front nose and radiator took must of the intial splash..I will change the oil asap etc ..but the engine is running good despite the odd idle..again with the computer theory and water in the housings I doubt the car would be running this well..but I could be wrong?
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Old Dec 25, 2005 | 06:58 PM
  #28  
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alright took the air hose off today.. the butterflies were sticking quite a bit..used the silicone spray liberally and it's been sitting since then, to let it soak in..I couldn't help but notice how clean the intake components were, considering the car's age..coming from my MX-3 GS and Probe GT which had the K-series V6's 1.8 and 2.5 respectively, those intakes were quite dirty and required frequent cleaning.. the 13b's was spotless..but most likely this is due to the fact that the K-series have crankcase ventilation routed into the air intakes
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Old Dec 25, 2005 | 08:26 PM
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i had water / dirt up my intake path, and probably through the engine, but the only problem was that it made my mass air flow sensor get stuck open( dirt grit ). this was on my FC but if your a EFI 13b, then you do have a MAS correct?
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Old Dec 25, 2005 | 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by lastphaseofthis
i had water / dirt up my intake path, and probably through the engine, but the only problem was that it made my mass air flow sensor get stuck open( dirt grit ). this was on my FC but if your a EFI 13b, then you do have a MAS correct?
yep my 13B does have a MAF but the intake system was clean and dry..it was the first thing I checked
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 01:22 AM
  #31  
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okay..started her up today after using the silicone on the TB..normal startup and a smooth idle..after warming up I rolled out of my apt complex and onto the street..giving her the usual throttle prod to get going...lit up the tires in 1st through 2nd..good lord..I have low end..I have some regained power I have never had in this car since I owned it..::big grin:: that was a sweet fix..a simple can of silicone spray.. thanks for all the info fellow 7 members...the stuck secondaries seemed to have been the issue..
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 09:17 PM
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Your ECU in in the passenger foot erea under the carpet and a metal cover. I agree with the others I think your ECU got wet. When you hit the water it would have splashed right on the metal the ECU is bolted too. Im sure being a older 7 theres a place for it to get inside in that erea as theres a lot of wires and such going thru the firewall in that erea. Just remove the ECU and bring it inside overnight. Place it near a heat register if possible to really dry it out. Also when you pull the ECU see if the padding under the carpet is wet in that erea. If it is you can be pretty sure the ECU got damp and thats your problem. Good luck hope its already fixed.
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 09:28 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Rotary Weasel
okay..started her up today after using the silicone on the TB..normal startup and a smooth idle..after warming up I rolled out of my apt complex and onto the street..giving her the usual throttle prod to get going...lit up the tires in 1st through 2nd..good lord..I have low end..I have some regained power I have never had in this car since I owned it..::big grin:: that was a sweet fix..a simple can of silicone spray.. thanks for all the info fellow 7 members...the stuck secondaries seemed to have been the issue..

Now look into doing adding the S4 lim, uim, and tb. Just remember to block off the two injector holes on the runners since you dont need them. It is a good upgrade, flows a bit more air and fuel.
At that time you could do the TB mod also.

Good luck. Hope she is better
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 10:25 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Fire85GSLSE
Now look into doing adding the S4 lim, uim, and tb. Just remember to block off the two injector holes on the runners since you dont need them. It is a good upgrade, flows a bit more air and fuel.
At that time you could do the TB mod also.

Good luck. Hope she is better
alright this noob needs some info on the S4 lim, uim, and tb..search results were sketchy and yes she is running much better thanks!
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Old Dec 30, 2005 | 02:41 PM
  #35  
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Well, I guess I checked this thread too late to help out. I'm glad you got it running, however.

My suggestion would have been to check the intake air piping (the black plastic piping before the airbox, and after the AFM to the TB) for any water. Also, if your air filter was soaking wet, it would prevent good airflow and also lead to weird start up conditions. More than likely, the stuff just needed to dry out, and now that it is - it's running fine again.

As an aside, I'm thinking that your extra power is probably due to smooth operation of the Secondaries in the TB, since if that shaft was slow or stuck, you would be only driving on the primaries and not flowing much A/F mixture at all.

Glad you got it sorted out. Don't do that again(!)
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Old Dec 30, 2005 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by LongDuck
Well, I guess I checked this thread too late to help out. I'm glad you got it running, however.

My suggestion would have been to check the intake air piping (the black plastic piping before the airbox, and after the AFM to the TB) for any water. Also, if your air filter was soaking wet, it would prevent good airflow and also lead to weird start up conditions. More than likely, the stuff just needed to dry out, and now that it is - it's running fine again.

As an aside, I'm thinking that your extra power is probably due to smooth operation of the Secondaries in the TB, since if that shaft was slow or stuck, you would be only driving on the primaries and not flowing much A/F mixture at all.

Glad you got it sorted out. Don't do that again(!)
Thanks LongDuck, your old posts helped in time ..I would've never considered the secondaries, had I not read them...oh yes..i'm not going to try that again lol
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Old Feb 3, 2006 | 08:32 PM
  #37  
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alright the silicone spray to the TB's lasts about a month and change...started her up today and she started the routine again..so she got oiled up again..woot I get to do this monthy..im guessing the fix is to replace the TB? things could always be worse..my 7 just wants me under her 'hood' often
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Old Feb 3, 2006 | 08:59 PM
  #38  
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Hey could be worse, I am switchin carbs right now. I run into a new problem everyday! But thats how the rotarys go my friend, but you gots to love them!
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Old Feb 3, 2006 | 09:17 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by MattG
Hey could be worse, I am switchin carbs right now. I run into a new problem everyday! But thats how the rotarys go my friend, but you gots to love them!
so true..anyways I'd just be bored if she didn't need constant attention
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Old Feb 3, 2006 | 09:42 PM
  #40  
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Aint that the truth, I tried makin love to her once to get her to run, but she backfired and burnt off my pubs!
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Old Feb 3, 2006 | 09:46 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by MattG
Aint that the truth, I tried makin love to her once to get her to run, but she backfired and burnt off my pubs!
I've got absolutely no reply for that...wow just wow..that will have to suffice
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Old Feb 3, 2006 | 11:00 PM
  #42  
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The long-term fix is to remove the TB entirely, and turn it 90 degrees to the side (to let the lube flow into the joint), then turn it 180 degrees to the other side, and lube it the same way. This ensures that the lube has time to penetrate the aluminum TB housing and saturate the rods.

Also, you should be using something that has some 'staying' power to it - such as 3in1 oil or something similar. Silicone sprays will dry out quickly and may not be providing any lasting effect.

It's been 2 years since I did mine last and it's held this long. HTH,
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Old Feb 3, 2006 | 11:35 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by LongDuck
The long-term fix is to remove the TB entirely, and turn it 90 degrees to the side (to let the lube flow into the joint), then turn it 180 degrees to the other side, and lube it the same way. This ensures that the lube has time to penetrate the aluminum TB housing and saturate the rods.

Also, you should be using something that has some 'staying' power to it - such as 3in1 oil or something similar. Silicone sprays will dry out quickly and may not be providing any lasting effect.

It's been 2 years since I did mine last and it's held this long. HTH,
makes perfect sense..silicone was what I had on hand..I will definately go get something more adequate for the job..thanks for the advice ::bows
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 08:51 AM
  #44  
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The ECU is under a metal panel at the passenger's feet (Under the carpet).

Edit: Sorry for the double post. Didn't finish reading the thread!

Last edited by Paradox_Racing; Feb 8, 2006 at 08:53 AM.
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 11:20 PM
  #45  
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alright an update..had to dig this dusty post back up
after tenaciously oiling the TB's the problem hasn't reared it's ugly head til now..it only does this in freezing temps in the morning (1st startup)..the rpm's will shoot up and then bounce up & down..however shutting her down and starting her backup resets it to normal idle..any ideas fellas? and she only does it randomly..not everytime it's started 1st time..other than this issue she runs very well
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 11:48 PM
  #46  
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throttle shafts get a little sticky when it's cold, tries to run rich when the tps is saying they are in a different position then they should be. so probably too much fuel not enough air, and an old computer is trying to compensate or find a happy medium.

or something like that.
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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 12:42 PM
  #47  
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I love being a nOOb... all this time with these issues..I literally went through the entire intake system:
The TPS was the issue the whole time
anytime my 7 exhibits the strange startup behaviour and literally unintended acceleration-fiddling with the TPS trigger resolves the issue
it's been replaced with a used one for now and is running dandy
I intend to pick up a new one from Black Dragon within the week
under the FAQ's for the TPS my 7 matched a couple of symptoms but, was exhibiting issues related to other components as well
this is finally resolved
you've been a great audience
I am here all week
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