How to fix a flooded engine?
10-19-07, 11:19 AM
#1
How to fix a flooded engine?
I have searched but I can't find any threads that involve with the situation I have now.
My FB is flooded, I removed the spark plugs, fuel pump fuse, let the fuel out from the carb then I start to crank the engine. There is mist (fuel) coming out and I know I have to get that all out first before I start to plugging things back on and try to start it. I have been cranking the engine for a long long time but it doesn't look like it's working at all... mist still coming out, my bro poured in some oil in the carb as it was stated in one of the archives. But mist (fuel) still comes out from it, should I continue to crank it without all the stuff or should I try something else?
Please help, thank you.
My FB is flooded, I removed the spark plugs, fuel pump fuse, let the fuel out from the carb then I start to crank the engine. There is mist (fuel) coming out and I know I have to get that all out first before I start to plugging things back on and try to start it. I have been cranking the engine for a long long time but it doesn't look like it's working at all... mist still coming out, my bro poured in some oil in the carb as it was stated in one of the archives. But mist (fuel) still comes out from it, should I continue to crank it without all the stuff or should I try something else?
Please help, thank you.
10-19-07, 11:24 AM
#2
You are doing it correctly with one exception. You need to open the throttle all the way and leave it there while you are cranking.
I also recommend that you hook up either a jumper vehicle or battery charger that puts out good amps while you are doing this. This allows the engine to spin faster and does not kill the battery. Take a piece of white paper and put it in front of the spark plug holes. When there is no longer anything hitting the paper then you are ready. Also might want to get a fresh set of plugs depending on high old yours are.
I also recommend that you hook up either a jumper vehicle or battery charger that puts out good amps while you are doing this. This allows the engine to spin faster and does not kill the battery. Take a piece of white paper and put it in front of the spark plug holes. When there is no longer anything hitting the paper then you are ready. Also might want to get a fresh set of plugs depending on high old yours are.
10-19-07, 02:45 PM
#7
Lives on the Forum
What has worked for me the last few times I've had to deflood, is just dump about an ounce of Seafoam down the primary barrels and then she starts right up....
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10-21-07, 09:24 PM
#10
Update!
Hey! I have an update for you guys. I did what Doc and whoever told me I should crank the engine without the plugs, fuel pump, etc with my foot on the gas. It worked... started right up... I cranked it with the jump cable on. Car started fine for the day, however, today when I was about to start it again... didn't work! Lucky that my driveway is a slope so I put it in reverse and let it roll and started right up... voltage was at 13-14 when after choking/warmup... what can that problem be now? Since the voltage is 13-14... it's not the battery's problem... I have the S4 alternator... what should I be checking? 
10-21-07, 09:40 PM
#11
Make sure the cables and posts are clean on the battery. I recommend that you have the battery load tested to verify it's cranking amp condition. If the engine is not being turned 240 to 250 RPM then you will have a starting problem.
Also make sure the grounds are clean and the connections are tight at the battery and at the starter.
Once you have gone thru all of that if there is still a problem I would recommend performing a compression test.
Also make sure the grounds are clean and the connections are tight at the battery and at the starter.
Once you have gone thru all of that if there is still a problem I would recommend performing a compression test.
10-21-07, 09:48 PM
#12
I am sure the posts and cables are clean because they were just replaced like 2-3 months ago. I should be checking the starter's connection, if that doesn't solve the problem. I will be testing the battery's cranking amp.
Thank you, again. Doc.
Thank you, again. Doc.
10-22-07, 01:37 AM
#15
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Does it SOUND like the starter is turning over with normal speed and vigor? You should always listen to the starter when your car is starting and working OK so you have a mental reference.
10-22-07, 09:50 PM
#16
I had it tested a few months ago, it's fine. Should I take it out and see if it's okay now?
This morning, I was going to drive it to work... car wouldn't start unless I jump it. The battery seem to be the problem now... I will find out tomorrow as I bring it to autozone to get it checked.
This morning, I was going to drive it to work... car wouldn't start unless I jump it. The battery seem to be the problem now... I will find out tomorrow as I bring it to autozone to get it checked.
10-22-07, 11:05 PM
#17
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SO many times I've found that a hard starting car simply has a lot of corrosion on the battery terminals. One of those $4 plastic combo ID and OD brushes from the auto store solves the problem.
10-23-07, 12:55 AM
#20
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I'd recheck the battery. Did you buy it new or is it an old one, and if so how new?
If the battery is kaput it may hold a charge after running the car for a while making you think it's good, but then die off after a few hours, hense your having to boost the car.
If possible swap in a known good battery. Always try the simplist things first.
If the battery is kaput it may hold a charge after running the car for a while making you think it's good, but then die off after a few hours, hense your having to boost the car.
If possible swap in a known good battery. Always try the simplist things first.
10-23-07, 05:55 PM
#22
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You can buy a small hydrometer (hygrometer?) at the autostore for about $4 that allows you to test the gravity of the fluid in the battery. The one that I have has 4 colored ***** in a small glass column and is filled by drawing fluid with a bulb at one end. When mine floats 3 or 4 ***** the battery is good. You have to test each cell since a single dead cell can kill the whole battery. This is an excellent way to test a battery.
If the battery tests good, then you may have a bad contact in the high-current starter circuit. In my experience, a voltage drop as low as 1.5 volts can kill a starter. I use an old D'arsonval (mechanical movement with a needle) movement low voltage meter (haven't tried a digital for this) to check across the two battery terminals, which is usually where the problem is.
Flush out the tester with tap water before storing it away.
If the battery tests good, then you may have a bad contact in the high-current starter circuit. In my experience, a voltage drop as low as 1.5 volts can kill a starter. I use an old D'arsonval (mechanical movement with a needle) movement low voltage meter (haven't tried a digital for this) to check across the two battery terminals, which is usually where the problem is.
Flush out the tester with tap water before storing it away.