How EXACTLY to install respeed coilovers/camber plates?
#1
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How EXACTLY to install respeed coilovers/camber plates?
I'm still at it, and still in way over my head. The instructions aren't much of a help to me with my limited experience/knowledge in this area. Can someone PLEASE help me out installing the camber plates and coilovers? I've a few questions before being comfortable proceeding.
I installed the front cartridges(illumina's) and the spacer that fits inside the tokico strut housing nut. The instructions(Tokico's) said to torque it to ~90 ft/lbs and there should be a small gap between the strut tube and nut flange. Even with the spacer installed, the large nut screwed all the way down to meet the strut tube. 1: Is this a problem?
Do the instructions for the coilovers also apply when using the camber plates? I mean; slip the threaded tube down onto perch; slide down spring zip tied to the AL upper spring mount; insert thin washer, needle bearing, thick washer on top of the upper spring mount in the recess; THEN the inner part of the camber plate with the monoball in it, then the new nut for the piston rod. It looks like the nut will bottom out without ever being able to contact the monoball. 2:Is this correct, no other washers or anything on the bottom or top of the monoball, just the nut on top?
3:Can someone confirm the correct orientation of the plates on my car?
4:The stock dust boots don't fit inside the spring, what about dust boots?
I installed the front cartridges(illumina's) and the spacer that fits inside the tokico strut housing nut. The instructions(Tokico's) said to torque it to ~90 ft/lbs and there should be a small gap between the strut tube and nut flange. Even with the spacer installed, the large nut screwed all the way down to meet the strut tube. 1: Is this a problem?
Do the instructions for the coilovers also apply when using the camber plates? I mean; slip the threaded tube down onto perch; slide down spring zip tied to the AL upper spring mount; insert thin washer, needle bearing, thick washer on top of the upper spring mount in the recess; THEN the inner part of the camber plate with the monoball in it, then the new nut for the piston rod. It looks like the nut will bottom out without ever being able to contact the monoball. 2:Is this correct, no other washers or anything on the bottom or top of the monoball, just the nut on top?
3:Can someone confirm the correct orientation of the plates on my car?
4:The stock dust boots don't fit inside the spring, what about dust boots?
#2
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The slots in the camber plates should be toward the rear of the car (hard to tell in photo). This adds a bit of caster.
There should be some thin washers that go on the strut shaft prior to inserting into the camber plates. Otherwise, the nut will not be able to take up the slack. If you did not receive these, then call Sam.
After installing the cap nut on top of the strut tube, do you still have slop (can cartridge move up/down)? There shouldn't be any movement. You aren't using SA strut tubes are you? They are a bit longer and require a different spacer.
Skip the boots, but don't forget the bump stops (cut in half if you like).
.
There should be some thin washers that go on the strut shaft prior to inserting into the camber plates. Otherwise, the nut will not be able to take up the slack. If you did not receive these, then call Sam.
After installing the cap nut on top of the strut tube, do you still have slop (can cartridge move up/down)? There shouldn't be any movement. You aren't using SA strut tubes are you? They are a bit longer and require a different spacer.
Skip the boots, but don't forget the bump stops (cut in half if you like).
.
#3
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The slots in the camber plates should be toward the rear of the car (hard to tell in photo). This adds a bit of caster.
There should be some thin washers that go on the strut shaft prior to inserting into the camber plates. Otherwise, the nut will not be able to take up the slack. If you did not receive these, then call Sam.
After installing the cap nut on top of the strut tube, do you still have slop (can cartridge move up/down)? There shouldn't be any movement. You aren't using SA strut tubes are you? They are a bit longer and require a different spacer.
Skip the boots, but don't forget the bump stops (cut in half if you like).
.
There should be some thin washers that go on the strut shaft prior to inserting into the camber plates. Otherwise, the nut will not be able to take up the slack. If you did not receive these, then call Sam.
After installing the cap nut on top of the strut tube, do you still have slop (can cartridge move up/down)? There shouldn't be any movement. You aren't using SA strut tubes are you? They are a bit longer and require a different spacer.
Skip the boots, but don't forget the bump stops (cut in half if you like).
.
I alsol only received ONE spacer for the strut tubes, and had to get a machine shop to take a week to make me another and charged me $20.
The only instructions I could find for the camber plates, makes no mention of washers or of actual installation even!
I didn't crank the piston rod nut down all the way, Just from looking at it I know there will be slop. The strut tubes themselves came out of a bone stock SE, but one had four thick washers UNDER the old cartridge, and the other had five! But the old cartridge bodies are much shorter than the illumina's.
#4
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Have you contacted Sam and given him an opportunity to correct the missing parts issue?
I mean, you're welcome to ask here, but Sam is the one that will have the answers and the ability to make it right.
I mean, you're welcome to ask here, but Sam is the one that will have the answers and the ability to make it right.
#5
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I sent Sam an email a few weeks ago, got no reply. I ordered the stuff last August and am just now trying to actually install it, I don't exactly expect any customer service on a year old order. I don't even know what parts I'm missing to ask about, that's why I'm aking here hoping that someone has these parts, has sucessfully installed them, and can tell me EXACTLY what I'm missing and what I need to complete this nightmare. I can find no instructions or pictures of what EXACTLY goes where. Thanks for the reply, wish I could get some more...
#6
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Does this help?
http://www.re-speed.com/media/kunena...etCoilOver.pdf
The Support Forum section of his website has the manuals
http://www.re-speed.com/
http://www.re-speed.com/media/kunena...etCoilOver.pdf
The Support Forum section of his website has the manuals
http://www.re-speed.com/
#7
Needs More Noise
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How about service on a year old order from the previous owner.
Only if the insert has movement after you have tightened the gland nut. The pictures show your purchase the "race" inserts. These are not Rx7 parts but can be used for such, therefore the tokico instructions are not 100% accurate. They would be if you were installing them on the Toyota they were made to fit. The missing spacer sometimes happens from Tokico unfortunately. Sam could have gotten a replacement sent to you direct from tokico.
That is the correct order of components minus some required spacers/washers you needs since you have the "race" inserts. You need to get Sam to send them to you.
Yes, the pictures shows the correct installation for the plate portion of the camber plate on the right hand side of the car.
Correct, the boots do not fit. You do not need them.
From the pictures it looks like you have everything needed minus the above mentioned spacers/washers. Get with Sam on those.
Post up if you have more questions.
Do the instructions for the coilovers also apply when using the camber plates? I mean; slip the threaded tube down onto perch; slide down spring zip tied to the AL upper spring mount; insert thin washer, needle bearing, thick washer on top of the upper spring mount in the recess; THEN the inner part of the camber plate with the monoball in it, then the new nut for the piston rod. It looks like the nut will bottom out without ever being able to contact the monoball. 2:Is this correct, no other washers or anything on the bottom or top of the monoball, just the nut on top?
Post up if you have more questions.
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#8
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Thank goodness, thank you sir for the informative reply! I really really appreaciate it. I'll try calling Sam about this.
As far as the inserts in the strut tubes...I poured some oil in the tubes first(~1/2 ounce) then put the inserts in. They slowly sank into place, and because of the oil in there, it make a terrific suction, and I couldn't pull the insert back out. After the large nut with the flange screwed all the way down to meet the strut tube, I don't have much confidence saying the inserts don't have slop because of my inability to remove them before I even put the nut on. I guess I'm worried about this perhaps for no reason? Thanks again.
As far as the inserts in the strut tubes...I poured some oil in the tubes first(~1/2 ounce) then put the inserts in. They slowly sank into place, and because of the oil in there, it make a terrific suction, and I couldn't pull the insert back out. After the large nut with the flange screwed all the way down to meet the strut tube, I don't have much confidence saying the inserts don't have slop because of my inability to remove them before I even put the nut on. I guess I'm worried about this perhaps for no reason? Thanks again.
#10
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Thank goodness, thank you sir for the informative reply! I really really appreaciate it. I'll try calling Sam about this.
As far as the inserts in the strut tubes...I poured some oil in the tubes first(~1/2 ounce) then put the inserts in. They slowly sank into place, and because of the oil in there, it make a terrific suction, and I couldn't pull the insert back out. After the large nut with the flange screwed all the way down to meet the strut tube, I don't have much confidence saying the inserts don't have slop because of my inability to remove them before I even put the nut on. I guess I'm worried about this perhaps for no reason? Thanks again.
As far as the inserts in the strut tubes...I poured some oil in the tubes first(~1/2 ounce) then put the inserts in. They slowly sank into place, and because of the oil in there, it make a terrific suction, and I couldn't pull the insert back out. After the large nut with the flange screwed all the way down to meet the strut tube, I don't have much confidence saying the inserts don't have slop because of my inability to remove them before I even put the nut on. I guess I'm worried about this perhaps for no reason? Thanks again.
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-Sam
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