At first nothing happened. Pump did not run. So I changed my jumper from a solid copper wire to another solid copper wire (see photo) and on my second attempt the pump ran, but the pressure gauge did not move.

I recorded what the pump sounds like when it runs. I will post that next.

 

Looks good...fire extinguisher,check! Turn the key on. Whaddaya got?

 

I got nada, and this is what the fuel pump sounds like... (is there a fuel flow direction at the pressure test "T" ? I didn't see any arrow...)

Listen to the video. Does the pump sound like it is running properly?

 

of the fuel pressure test kit, I took the T connection apart and notice it was dry as a bone. Then I noticed this "pin" thing in the T-fitting, which would not have meant anything to me had I not seen a video on YouTube about a guy doing a fuel pressure test and he said you needed to remove this "pin" thing. If that is so, why are there no instructions to do so? Why is it there? What is it's purpose? Do I need to remove it? If so, how? Does it pull out? Twist out? Do you unscrew it? (see photos)

 

1st thing is to verify you have the polarity correct on pump wiring,pump sounds loud,possibly because it's not pumping fuel. Look on body of fuel pump,don't know what brand it is,most have a + &- marking by their terminals. Oe wires at pump were black for ground and i believe blue for 12volts. Pump will run backwards if wired as such. Correct and retest if this is the case. Pumps also have a fuel in and out fitting,is it oriented correctly? . Next,if wiring is correct is to inspect pump to be sure fuel is going into it.

 

You have #,call,much quicker...than typng

 

The pin thing is a schraeder valve,much like valve stem in wheel on your car. Looks like a piece is missing from the connector on gauge or that gauge is not original to that kit. The schraeder valve is there to allow the gauge to be disconnected from tee fitting without a lot of fuel spraying out. I suppose you could remove it(unscrew it) and use gauge without it. You'll need a schraeder valve removal tool...some bicycles came with them as a valve stem cap on the fill valve on the wheel...

 

I think I'm going to start a new thread. People say, you need to do a fuel pressure test, and/or a compression test, and/or this or that, but where are the post that describe exactly the equipment to use, how to use it, and the procedures to follow for that particular RX7 "year and model" ?? It's bad enough we have to fuss over all these different "generations" and all those different "years" within these generations and then to differentiate between this model or that for all these different issues!!! Now, I have to fuss over "test equipment" for my particular "year and model" too! Test equipment!! OMG.

I asked if there was any specific (special) test equipment for a fuel pressure test for my 84 GSL SE and I was told any fuel pressure test kit will work. Well guess what, I got this test equipment from Auto Zone, which should work just fine, right? but it doesn't, and I watched a video on YouTube where it was mentioned you NEED to REMOVE the pin thing for the test. Did anyone here know that? So when people say you need to do a "compression test" or "fuel pressure test" do they know HOW to do it "and" WHAT equipment to use and WHERE to buy/borrow/steal it, and the PROCEDURE (step by step)? Can anyone tell me where I can find this information for my RX7 "year and model" in this forum quickly and easily?

I got a fuel pressure test kit on loan from Auto Zone. I connected it exactly as instructed. Nobody mentioned anything about this pin thing in the T connector, it's not even mentioned in the instruction manual. YET it was mentioned on YouTube. ???

I know once I remove this pin thing I will see pressure, because I know I have pressure, I just don't know if I have enough. How do I know this? I base my feeling on the fact that we felt pressure on our finger and I even flooded the engine after I installed this "aftermarket" pump. The question now is simply, does it still pump, and if it does (I know it's doing something because I can hear it humming) does it pump enough pressure? But for it to read ZERO just tells me there is something wrong with the "test equipment" or "test procedure" (how I am using it.)

 

Thanks. I will go to Home Depot and see if I can purchase this removal tool there, and re-test my fuel pump tomorrow night.

 

Thank you for your suggestion but I am not going to jack the car up and crawl under it to fuss with this fuel pump unless I am going to replace it with an OEM unit. The logistics of working under the car is now confined to weekends only. I will try to re-test the pump asap (tomorrow) and if it is still an issue (no pressure?) then I will crawl under the car and just replace the pump altogether, and just be done with it. So far, I have spark as we all have witnessed. Once I (hopefully?) establish that I have proper fuel pressure, then what? Compression? My worse fear...

 

Wow...may have just shot yourself in the foot here,likely to get some blowback from members here. I have gone out to the garage before going to work and pulled out another gauge set i have that has a 1/4"schraeder screw on fitting like the one you have rented from autozone. Look at the pic and compare it to what you have and you can see yours is missing the tab that depresses the schraeder valve. I would direct your anger to the folks at autozone that rented the equipment to you without looking at it to be certain it was 100% all there. No telling what happened here,probably done by previous renter and equipment wasn't looked at closely enough when returned. That tester will not work on any car,with any of the adapters,until the missing piece in the gauge connector is replaced,again suggest you return that gauge set and source another to continue testing. I for one,have given you exact,concise information explaining how systems work,answered all your questions about various systems explicitly pertaining to your model and year of car right down to wire colors in circuits you're working on. You've gotten professional direction on what to do and in what order to take each step.I have broken down and educated you on theory behind components you're working with and done so bearing in mind you're not a skilled technician,which is at least part of what is at play here. For example,an experienced tech would have immediately noticed the piece missing from the female connector on the gauge and would have returned it to autozone for another functional unit. Soon as i saw your post/pic tried to communicate this to you...no response til i read your latest post...Diagnostics is a specific elimination of systems involved to enable honing in on the true fault of no start and yes sometimes it is more than one thing that causes it. To each of your responses i have given you the info on what to do,check next as i would do because this is what i do for a living. It is apparent you've been wrestling with this problem long before you came to this site for help,clear you've exhausted your patience. When a next logical move is suggested(checking polarity of wiring on pump) you say you're not going to do that-you would rather just replace the pump.your prerogative. That suggestion based on your test result and audio of pump that i posted before you noticed the gauge problem. I don't take your complaints personally,others may. Might want to patch up your relationship with the site members if you hope to gain any more info...or not.

 

i am very sorry and I apologize for being rude. You guys have taught me more than you know. My frustration got the best of me. Please accept my apology if you can. I will visit Auto Zone tioday...

 

Ok, it took three, 3, test kits to find one that was complete and fully functional. I had to go to 2 stores, and this was the last one they had. Lesson for all here to learn from — BEWARE of rented fuel pressure test equipment. Inspect and make sure the fittings are correct. Thanks for reading.

 

Comments?

 

Spec is 50-70psi. You're not quite reaching that. Definitely an internal leak,likely pump can't overcome that and why pressure is not higher. System should hold the pressure it has,even though it's low,for 1/2 hour or longer.. 1st thought,"probably"not injectors,not saying it can't be,the rate that pressure falls off indicates more volume than a sticking injector(s). Leave gauge attached,there are more tests to do. I'm away from home most of day today,you can text me for direction on how to proceed and what's needed.

 

Internal pump or engine? Spark plugs are still out. I already disconnected the kit. I was going to return it... I will text later. Thanks!

 

Pump,regulator,injectors... need fuel gauge attached to perform tests to help determine what problem is.

 

Does this leaky thing have anything to do with anything?

 

That's a solenoid that senses vacuum from the intake plenum. It doesn't have any fluid running in it (normally). There's no reason for that to be wet. What kind of oil or grease is on it? Did it drip from somewhere else?

Point being: it's unrelated to your current issue of the car not starting.

 

Fuel pressure alone doesn't matter if the flow is restricted inside the tank. Clogged tanks are a common problem on these cars esp. if they sat. Do the volume test with a bucket and a stop watch.

 

Before we tested the pressure the first time, we ran the pump to make sure gas was flowing. We filled 1/2 empty bottle of beer in about 3 secs. That was at 40psi. But I suspect the tank may have some debris, but what you don't know is that the tank had a pinhole link in the mid-90s and it was fixed at the Dealer. How? How do you fix a pinhole leak in a gas tank? I would imagine they removed it and flushed it (cleaned it?) etc.as part of the repair.

Anyway, could this be another reason to drain the tank and fill it with fresh gas? Can I flush and clean the tank without removing it? Oh, and the gas is good, btw. We tested a sample in the driveway and it ignited instantly. Thanks for your thoughts.

 

I've read the entire thread. To confirm, the gasoline is 2 years old, it last ran 16 months ago, you had a 1/4 tank = 4 gal and added 2 gal of fresh gas recently. Check the color of a sample from your tank compared to fresh. Dark is bad, and so is sediment- but you might not see that unless you drain from the tank bung or before the filter. Old gas can still burn (your match test in the driveway) but it still might not run in your rotary.

I think you need to get that probably shitty gas out of there . At the very least:
- you'll rule it out as a problem
- it's a constant in this situation
- fresh will give the best shot of at least catching given your lower that spec fuel pressure (40 psi vs the 50-70 spec GSLSEforme mentioned)
- you'll know for sure if your tank is clogged etc.

 

The car last ran im early July 2015. Then the pump stopped working... Overall, gas is 2-1/2 + years old. Color of gas was yellowish when we ignited it in the driveway. I will test the fuel pressure lines tomorrow and report back. Thanks for your thoughts!

 

That gas is probably crap at this point.

 

Connected fuel pressure test kit with T-valve inline with incoming fuel line/hose to engine.

TEST #1:
Turned KEY ON and ran pump: Baseline pressure = 40-42 psi
Pinched closed the "Return line/hose" = pressure = 65 psi
Released pinch = pressure returned to baseline 40 psi

TEST #2:
With pump still running, pinched "Return line/hose" again = pressure jumped back up to 65-69 psi (maybe I squeezed harder?)
Turned KEY OFF and stopped pump = pressure dropped to ZERO immediately

TEST #2B:
Pinched incoming line/hose between T-valve and engine
Turned KEY ON and ran pump: pressure = 50 psi
Turned KEY OFF and stopped pump = pressure dropped to ZERO.

TEST #3:
KEY ON and ran pump: Baseline pressure = 40 psi
Pinched closed "incoming fuel line/hose" before T-valve hose = maintained pressure 40 psi
Turned KEY OFF and stopped pump = pressure dropped to ZERO

End of Tests.
Many thanks to GSLSEforme for the step-by-step procedures to conduct these tests.
Thanks for reading.