how dose one use sea foam
how dose one use sea foam
i want to use sea foam to clean out my injectors but im not sure how to use it.
i have a 1985 gsl-se with fuel injection....
i tryed looking on you tube but all the video's only show the smoke comming out the rearend
i have a 1985 gsl-se with fuel injection....
i tryed looking on you tube but all the video's only show the smoke comming out the rearend
yea i see smoke comming out but i dont see u putting sea foam in the car, i have fuel injection where do i put the sea foam in????
Last edited by chris rx7 gsl-se; Sep 24, 2009 at 09:58 PM.
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,162
Likes: 1
From: London, Ontario, Canada
Since you have an SE, your only choice is putting it in the gas tank. Wait until you have about 1/8th of a tank, pour it in and drive the **** out of her. That should do it.
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I too would like to know where to directly vacuum inject seafoam into my SE. I used to use the vacuum from the brake booster until I learned it only feeds the rear rotor. I've also used the short rubber line that jumpers from the TB to the dynamic chamber(webpic1). I don't know if this is advised...LongDuck please chime in. Is it allright to have seafoam introduced that way? All the places there should only be incoming air in the chamber and the intake manifolds, is it allright for seafoam to (hopefully)temporarly be there?
I've also used one of the very small vacuum lines behind the alternator(altpic1/altpic2). I've looked at the available vacuum diagrams, but I still don't know exactly where these go. Are either of these viable methods to feed both rotors as directly as possible just like dumping it down the carb in the 12A's? I've always wanted some definitive answers, please chime in!
I've also used one of the very small vacuum lines behind the alternator(altpic1/altpic2). I've looked at the available vacuum diagrams, but I still don't know exactly where these go. Are either of these viable methods to feed both rotors as directly as possible just like dumping it down the carb in the 12A's? I've always wanted some definitive answers, please chime in!
If you want to use the vacuum method, you could use that top small hose behind the alt. There is also one under the BAC (stick out sideways, a bit hard to see) would work as well. These both feed into the dynamic chamber it would go to both rotors. Removing the large line in the 1st pic would cause a huge vac leak and probably couldn't even get the car running without it. Also, it would draw in the Seafoam too quickly even if it did stay running.
I rather just put a full can in an 1/8 tank of fuel and using it that way. It cleans the fuel system and less is wasted. If you go the vac route, I would probably use two cans: one through the vac line, one for the tank.
I rather just put a full can in an 1/8 tank of fuel and using it that way. It cleans the fuel system and less is wasted. If you go the vac route, I would probably use two cans: one through the vac line, one for the tank.
If you want to use the vacuum method, you could use that top small hose behind the alt. There is also one under the BAC (stick out sideways, a bit hard to see) would work as well. These both feed into the dynamic chamber it would go to both rotors. Removing the large line in the 1st pic would cause a huge vac leak and probably couldn't even get the car running without it. Also, it would draw in the Seafoam too quickly even if it did stay running.
I rather just put a full can in an 1/8 tank of fuel and using it that way. It cleans the fuel system and less is wasted. If you go the vac route, I would probably use two cans: one through the vac line, one for the tank.
I rather just put a full can in an 1/8 tank of fuel and using it that way. It cleans the fuel system and less is wasted. If you go the vac route, I would probably use two cans: one through the vac line, one for the tank.
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,591
Likes: 549
From: Phoenix, AZ
I wouldn't use this one:
If you ever get a Dynamic Chamber apart, you'll see that the big tube goes straight through the Dynamic Chamber and exits out the other side directly into the Bypass Air Control Valve (BACV). This valve is what the SE's use to moderate airflow into the Dynamic Chamber to maintain idle under electrical load, and when the A/C turns on. It's basically just a complicated vacuum controlled needle valve in there, but I still wouldn't bathe it in SeaFoam if you didn't need to.
I think the other vacuum lines under the UIM would allow you to inject the SeaFoam there, and also don't overlook the chance to pull it into the engine via the Sub-Zero Start assist solenoid valve mounted to the top of the LIM.
Personally, I would suggest AGAINST adding anything to your oil system (displacing engine oil for MMO, SeaFoam or anything similar), as the engine really needs the oil system to cool it, not to distribute carbon solvents, and the carbon you're really after is that inside the combustion chambers. Case in point, I used MMO in my oil to free up my SE engine back at about 180k miles, and it ate away the 'good carbon' that was helping to seal the Oil Control Rings. End result was that it suddenly started smoking like crazy on cold starts (like smoking out the neighborhood) and did that for the next 20k miles - it was embarassing.
If you're going for the simplest method to get the SeaFoam where it needs to go - hitting the injectors on it's way through - the only way to do that is through the fuel system. Buy a can of SeaFoam, and the next time you notice it's time to get gas - pour it in, and drive around.
Simple is sometimes best.
If you want to take it one step further, go run a quick search on "cleaning '6'-ports", and then come and talk to me about being thorough!
If you ever get a Dynamic Chamber apart, you'll see that the big tube goes straight through the Dynamic Chamber and exits out the other side directly into the Bypass Air Control Valve (BACV). This valve is what the SE's use to moderate airflow into the Dynamic Chamber to maintain idle under electrical load, and when the A/C turns on. It's basically just a complicated vacuum controlled needle valve in there, but I still wouldn't bathe it in SeaFoam if you didn't need to.
I think the other vacuum lines under the UIM would allow you to inject the SeaFoam there, and also don't overlook the chance to pull it into the engine via the Sub-Zero Start assist solenoid valve mounted to the top of the LIM.
Personally, I would suggest AGAINST adding anything to your oil system (displacing engine oil for MMO, SeaFoam or anything similar), as the engine really needs the oil system to cool it, not to distribute carbon solvents, and the carbon you're really after is that inside the combustion chambers. Case in point, I used MMO in my oil to free up my SE engine back at about 180k miles, and it ate away the 'good carbon' that was helping to seal the Oil Control Rings. End result was that it suddenly started smoking like crazy on cold starts (like smoking out the neighborhood) and did that for the next 20k miles - it was embarassing.
If you're going for the simplest method to get the SeaFoam where it needs to go - hitting the injectors on it's way through - the only way to do that is through the fuel system. Buy a can of SeaFoam, and the next time you notice it's time to get gas - pour it in, and drive around.
Simple is sometimes best.
If you want to take it one step further, go run a quick search on "cleaning '6'-ports", and then come and talk to me about being thorough!
I wouldn't use this one:
If you ever get a Dynamic Chamber apart, you'll see that the big tube goes straight through the Dynamic Chamber and exits out the other side directly into the Bypass Air Control Valve (BACV). This valve is what the SE's use to moderate airflow into the Dynamic Chamber to maintain idle under electrical load, and when the A/C turns on. It's basically just a complicated vacuum controlled needle valve in there, but I still wouldn't bathe it in SeaFoam if you didn't need to.
I think the other vacuum lines under the UIM would allow you to inject the SeaFoam there, and also don't overlook the chance to pull it into the engine via the Sub-Zero Start assist solenoid valve mounted to the top of the LIM.
Personally, I would suggest AGAINST adding anything to your oil system (displacing engine oil for MMO, SeaFoam or anything similar), as the engine really needs the oil system to cool it, not to distribute carbon solvents, and the carbon you're really after is that inside the combustion chambers. Case in point, I used MMO in my oil to free up my SE engine back at about 180k miles, and it ate away the 'good carbon' that was helping to seal the Oil Control Rings. End result was that it suddenly started smoking like crazy on cold starts (like smoking out the neighborhood) and did that for the next 20k miles - it was embarassing.
If you're going for the simplest method to get the SeaFoam where it needs to go - hitting the injectors on it's way through - the only way to do that is through the fuel system. Buy a can of SeaFoam, and the next time you notice it's time to get gas - pour it in, and drive around.
Simple is sometimes best.
If you want to take it one step further, go run a quick search on "cleaning '6'-ports", and then come and talk to me about being thorough!
If you ever get a Dynamic Chamber apart, you'll see that the big tube goes straight through the Dynamic Chamber and exits out the other side directly into the Bypass Air Control Valve (BACV). This valve is what the SE's use to moderate airflow into the Dynamic Chamber to maintain idle under electrical load, and when the A/C turns on. It's basically just a complicated vacuum controlled needle valve in there, but I still wouldn't bathe it in SeaFoam if you didn't need to.
I think the other vacuum lines under the UIM would allow you to inject the SeaFoam there, and also don't overlook the chance to pull it into the engine via the Sub-Zero Start assist solenoid valve mounted to the top of the LIM.
Personally, I would suggest AGAINST adding anything to your oil system (displacing engine oil for MMO, SeaFoam or anything similar), as the engine really needs the oil system to cool it, not to distribute carbon solvents, and the carbon you're really after is that inside the combustion chambers. Case in point, I used MMO in my oil to free up my SE engine back at about 180k miles, and it ate away the 'good carbon' that was helping to seal the Oil Control Rings. End result was that it suddenly started smoking like crazy on cold starts (like smoking out the neighborhood) and did that for the next 20k miles - it was embarassing.
If you're going for the simplest method to get the SeaFoam where it needs to go - hitting the injectors on it's way through - the only way to do that is through the fuel system. Buy a can of SeaFoam, and the next time you notice it's time to get gas - pour it in, and drive around.
Simple is sometimes best.
If you want to take it one step further, go run a quick search on "cleaning '6'-ports", and then come and talk to me about being thorough!
As far as that tube from the TB to the chamber...I've been dumping small amounts of seafoam in there trying to get a parts car of mine running. And now that I think about it, I think I spayed a whole bunch of marine fogging oil in there when I put the car away for the winter when I first had it and it still ran. I don't think it's ever run since...
^^^^How do you activate the sub zero system? I just noticed the other day, the line from the resevoir to under the manifold was missing! I could not see where it was supposed to go, so I spent hours tearing a parts car (another '84 SE) apart just to see where the hell that line ended up! Finally saw where it was supposed to go, then freaked out thinking I've had a huge vac leak this whole time (I assumed the gadget on the reservoir acivated something to let that line suck out what was in the reservoir) but that line has NO vacuum. I ended up somehow getting that line back onto the thing where it should be behind/underneath the manifolds and left the other end off of the reservoir. I started the car and could not get any vacuum from that line at all...My question is...How do you activate the system so that line draws vacuum, so I can use it to suck up seafoam?
Last edited by sevens4me; Oct 22, 2010 at 05:39 PM. Reason: missing verbage
Wouldn't do it any other way. I would definetly not add it to your oil either, if you have to add an additive to your oil, then your running some crappy oil.. 
Sorry for the thread-jack but it is relevant info:
I've been told that after you seafoam you want to change your oil in a piston engine. Is that true for a rotary? I'm creating a bit of smoke from my 85 GSL-SE on startup and could probably benefit from a seafoam and just did an oil change (now running Royal Purple which is expensive as **** for a broke college students budget) and would rather not have to change it again. Should I be ok for the next 2k miles before I'm due for another oil change? Or does seafoam not mess up the oil on rotary engines?
I've been told that after you seafoam you want to change your oil in a piston engine. Is that true for a rotary? I'm creating a bit of smoke from my 85 GSL-SE on startup and could probably benefit from a seafoam and just did an oil change (now running Royal Purple which is expensive as **** for a broke college students budget) and would rather not have to change it again. Should I be ok for the next 2k miles before I'm due for another oil change? Or does seafoam not mess up the oil on rotary engines?
The lower rings would be like the oil control rings, to keep the oil from getting into
the chamber.
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,416
Likes: 5
From: East Palestine, Oh
when you add sea foam to your oil it brakes it down so bad that when you change your oil it runs out like water. your supposed to put in in your oil, drive the **** out of it for 10 miles or so then change your oil. It cleans everything out and your oil will be so black it will almost look silver. Unless your motor isnt that dirty lol
I am still leary with additives. I've had rotaries go over 200K only using dino oil and no cleaners/additives. But have heard of other using things in the radiator, oil, and gas, and **** somehow seems to go wrong. Coincidence? Maybe - idunno!
Lives on the Forum
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 11,359
Likes: 14
From: Grand Rapids Michigan
Once again for the slow learners:
PUT IT IN THE GAS TANK!!!
The only thing that I would recommend adding to the oil is Lucas, which helps a lot with burning issues. Keep the Seafoam out of there...
PUT IT IN THE GAS TANK!!!
The only thing that I would recommend adding to the oil is Lucas, which helps a lot with burning issues. Keep the Seafoam out of there...