1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

How does YOUR car start?

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Old Mar 8, 2005 | 02:49 PM
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How does YOUR car start?

A forum buddy sent me a video, his rotary starts as any other normal piston car, a revolution and thats it, it starts.

Mine sounds like an airplane, gets speed and then it starts.

The question is ..... why???

any ideas?
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Old Mar 8, 2005 | 03:01 PM
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It's the time it takes to build up compression.
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Old Mar 8, 2005 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by cdrad51
It's the time it takes to build up compression.

oh...

that cant be good
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Old Mar 8, 2005 | 03:28 PM
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i think it takes that long usually when u haven't started it up for a while (like mine) or when ur compression is a low
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Old Mar 8, 2005 | 03:28 PM
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if it takes a push start for the car, compression is low and may indicate signs of major wear on motor.

or maybe you mismatched the spark wires and plugs hence you always having to push start the car; it will only constantly flood if that was the case.
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Old Mar 8, 2005 | 03:40 PM
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yeah..doesn't sund right, or it could be a bad starter as well. Or your choke ain't pulled out!

Mine starts up almost right away.
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Old Mar 8, 2005 | 04:18 PM
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with the key!
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Old Mar 8, 2005 | 04:19 PM
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Winding up is definately a sign of low compression.
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Old Mar 8, 2005 | 05:01 PM
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My fairly stock 7 cold starts only w/ the choke pulled all the way out. My SP 13B has no choke & takes a slight pump at just the right time to catch. If you miss too many times, it floods. Then you wait 15 min & it starts right up.
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Old Mar 8, 2005 | 05:48 PM
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13B, sidedraft, Starts up as fast as you can turn the key.
Oh, and no choke.
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Old Mar 8, 2005 | 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by -xlr8planet-
A forum buddy sent me a video, his rotary starts as any other normal piston car, a revolution and thats it, it starts.

Mine sounds like an airplane, gets speed and then it starts.

The question is ..... why???

any ideas?
If your timing is off and/or you have weak spark could cause this also.
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Old Mar 8, 2005 | 06:06 PM
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12As should start right away with no pedal in normal weather and half choke when cold. A 13B may flood when warm and thus require holding pedal to the floor (without pumping!) while spinning it.

Any rotary MAY have coolant leaks that flood the engine and will require some spinning to get started and then start with a sputter. this is such a common problem that it pays to monitor coolant consumption and ability of coolant system to maintain pressure.

B
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Old Mar 8, 2005 | 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Snapshot
My fairly stock 7 cold starts only w/ the choke pulled all the way out. My SP 13B has no choke & takes a slight pump at just the right time to catch. If you miss too many times, it floods. Then you wait 15 min & it starts right up.

<<<<<<<<----------------what kind of front bumper body kit is that.......whats the name
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Old Mar 8, 2005 | 06:24 PM
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maybe it needs a tad gas in the "chamber" i give mine 2 pumps (weber ida 48) then its good to go. make sure to check out your OMP to make sure its still doing its job, oil helps keep the compression alittle higher.
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Old Mar 8, 2005 | 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by rxtory
<<<<<<<<----------------what kind of front bumper body kit is that.......whats the name
Mariah?
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Old Mar 8, 2005 | 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by bliffle

12As should start right away with no pedal in normal weather and half choke when cold.

B
Uh, maybe in California, where "cold" means anything below 45F. In the northern states and Canada you need full choke and part throttle at any temp below freezing and at least part choke and part throttle above that temp and up to 45F.
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Old Mar 8, 2005 | 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Rotor13B
13B, sidedraft, Starts up as fast as you can turn the key.
Oh, and no choke.
wtf! how?!?! i have the same setup and it takes me 4 times for it to get going, and i have to hold my foot on the gas for like 2 minutes to make it idle.. whats wrong with it?
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Old Mar 8, 2005 | 07:10 PM
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Mine would need the choke pulled out, and the gas pumped heavily and after it wound up enough it would start to a shaky idle and youd have to clear the motor out, later I blew the apex seal and starting go 100x worse
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Old Mar 8, 2005 | 09:16 PM
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Well,

I have to hold down two wires on the left hand side of the column to get my car started and sometimes it'll actually mess up my start and flood the car because you let off and it stopped cranking...

- Tech
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Old Mar 8, 2005 | 09:48 PM
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mine starts never now lol I wish it did I miss it lol
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Old Mar 8, 2005 | 10:45 PM
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depends on how cold it is, if theres frost on my windsheild i know im in for some hell. Take alot of cranking, and sometimes doesn't even start. On the other hand, in warm weather i never, ever have a problem starting it, if i flood it a bit i just hold the pedal to the floor and it starts right up. I hate the cold!

oh btw - 1983 GSL 74-78 13B, RB Holley 600, RB Headers, Stock ignition system
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Old Mar 8, 2005 | 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by rxseven07
wtf! how?!?! i have the same setup and it takes me 4 times for it to get going, and i have to hold my foot on the gas for like 2 minutes to make it idle.. whats wrong with it?
Trust me, it wasn't always that way. I've adjusted and adjusted and adjusted... You get the picture. I used to have the hard starting problem especially in the winter here in Colorado. So I rebuilt the carb, made sure everything on my ignition was up to task especially the battery and cables and I haven't had any problems since.
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Old Mar 9, 2005 | 03:56 AM
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I agree with the others.The only 12A that should sound like a plane before starting,is the old Twin dizzy,with carbon seals.Is your ignition,and carb in good order?

karis
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Old Mar 9, 2005 | 04:18 AM
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I turn my key, and it starts.
To bend the key.

Because there's not even a battery in my car right now!
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Old Mar 9, 2005 | 06:29 AM
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my car starts fights with me....
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