widebodyseven

iTrader: (17)

First off I don't know the correct term to the piece in question but hopefully you guys know what i'm talking about....

This flapping/valve thing, when close or completely open the car doesn't start but when slightly open the car starts and when warm up i could open it up all the way. My question, is this controlled manually(how i'm currently doing it) or what controls it?

Also, another question this piece controls the OMP? Bc it looks like a rod is missing, that would of been connecting from the piece in question to the OMP?

Pictures....

The valve in question

OMP rod????


Thanks!! I'm still new to carbs and the 12a but learning.

Hec's 79 gs

That's your choke and you want it close for cold starts and fully open when hot, and your missing the choke cable for adjustment.

widebodyseven

iTrader: (17)

Thanks, just check mazdatrix and for the cable it's $160

Any pictures showing how the cable mounts?

Hec's 79 gs

$160 hell no! check it out http://www.holley.com/45-228.asp

Don't have a picture but my last set up the cable went towards the right fender then it went towards the rear and follow the firewall to the drivers side.I'm sure there is a shorter way to install it.

dankekong

iTrader: (2)

do you have the oil metering lines hooked up to the carb? do you run premix? if you run premix then you are fine without the omp....but it doesnt sound like you run premix. You absolutely need that rod hooked up....with the appropriate (2) lines running to the carburetor. it looks like the lines are running to the carb, but without the rod its doing no good and the engine will burn up very soon.

With the engine off obviously...you can feel the rod from in front of the belts....from the passengers side of the car. If you look straight down (relatively speaking) from where that arm is for the rod...you should be able to see it somewhere. It's easier to push it upward from inbetween the belts and pulleys than to pull it up ward. Definitely need two hands tho to guide it.

Mr_Miles

iTrader: (1)

since we're talking about OMP's, is there any way to test if mine works? I've always wondered. I've been premixing lately because I don' know. should i see oil anywhere if i look hard enough? are the lines see-through? I don't like messing with something that could potentially ruin my car, so i don't want to touch it unless i know what I'm doing. it's a carb'd 12a, also.


on a side note, I may have a spare choke cable. let me look over the next few day's and I'll get back to you on that. if i do, it's yours.

patmac6075

iTrader: (26)

Checking the OMP is outlined completely in FSM.

I seem to remember.....you should premix your gas (not sure if this is outlined in the FSM, but seems like a good idea), slip the lines off your carb...start the engine...measure the amount of oil flowing into a container over a specified time (who much oil and how much time...that's what the FSM will tell you)

Mr_Miles

iTrader: (1)

ah, cool. i never think to check the fsm for things like that.

84stock

iTrader: (5)

The rod he is referring to is for the choke, not the omp.

Premix "immediately" until you learn and can ensure proper functionality of the omp system or you will starve the apex seals of oil.

I see some strange connections in those pics, like what may be omp lines plumbed into vac lines into a vac port on the carb. And a line going to the front fuel bowl inspection hole which should be used for the omp lines.

PK_12A

iTrader: (3)

Can't tell you about the omp stuff I'll leave that to the rotary experts but, what you have in both pictures is the 1) choke valve, it is closed to richen up the fuel/air for cold staring and open at op temp, and 2)the choke control linkage since your Holley has a FULLY manually operated choke what I don't see however is the choke control cable good news that 160$ us is for the auto choke set up for the stock nikki not the Holley, a generic parts store choke cable is around 15-30$ us $30 it takes literally less than 30min to install.

widebodyseven

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for all the replies. I decided to drop off the car at my local rotary shop, to get everything check since i'm the new owner and i don't know much about what's done to the car.(Lucky7Racing)

Good news- I learn how to use the choke, kinda a pita but will get use to it.

Bad news- I talked to 2 of the previous owners and they said they never premix

I put 60 miles and the previous owner put 260 miles who knows how long the other owner been driving with out the OMP/premix.

Is it a possibility they set the OMP to be open all the time? If so how do i check?

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Locate the OMP lever. When fully "closed" it's still pumping enough oil for idle speeds. As you lift the OMP lever manually, you see it goes up from the 8 o'clock postition, through 9 and ends up near 10 or 11 when fully "open".

The advice I recieved from Atkins when running one of their Camden superchargers is to leave the OMP at the 9 or 10 o'clock position. This covers most of your driving from idle (a little rich) to mid range RPM (perfect). If you go up to high RPM a lot, such as while racing or whatever, it will be a bit lean obviously.

If there was a way to fab up a rod to get around the SC housing, someone probably would have come up with it by now. Since your Holley setup is a lot easier to fashion a rod for, you can jack the OMP open to the 9 o'clock position for now with like a length of mechanic's wire strung from one of the waterpump studs (between waterpump and front engine iron), then do a rod when you've got time to deal with it.

Hec's 79 gs

If a was you I just premix and call it the day, cheap insurance and peace of mind. I do premix in all my rotaries, except for the 3rd gen.