how do you bypass a dimmer switch
#26
Old Fart Young at Heart
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Originally Posted by Rogue_Wulff
It would be best to not try tapping into the dash light circuit for the 5 new gauges. Instead, use a relay to carry the load, and you can run a second dimmer for those gauges. The extra load of the new gauges *could* overload the dash light circuit, and cause a malfunction.
Now to take the cluster apart and install blanks in the 2 circle for the 4 side gauges.
#30
Censored
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I've been working on The White One, my new 84 GSL that I got on ebay a few months ago. The dash lights didn't work so I did a search and found this post about those two wires under the shift boot that look like they should go together but don't unless you have an automatic. Sure enough, they were hooked up, probably when the previous owner (or his mechanic) had the tranny out to do the clutch last year. Fortunately I had a spare dimmer, now everything is working fine. Thanks guys.
Ray
Ray
#33
20B/5 Speed/JC!
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Fellas, sorry for the 7 year old thread bump, but no point in me starting another thread when this one is 100% relevant to my issue right now.
I'm having the fuse popping symptoms with no dash illumination. I have a GSL-SE that didn't have a dimmer switch from the PO, so I bought a used one and it got super hot and blew the fuse. So next step was to just bypass the switch and jumped the red/green and red/blue together and it immediately blew the fuse also.
I checked the red and black bullet connectors under the shifter trim and they were NOT connected. While I was at it I pulled the radio and the harnesses all look like virgins, no funky splices or anything. I went ahead and checked the dimmer's harness and it was the same story there, all unmolested.
The fuse that keeps popping is the "TAIL ILLUM", and when it blows I get the previously mentioned symptoms: running lights stay off, and headlights stay up if rotated.
I'm at a loss here, where should I go next?
I'm having the fuse popping symptoms with no dash illumination. I have a GSL-SE that didn't have a dimmer switch from the PO, so I bought a used one and it got super hot and blew the fuse. So next step was to just bypass the switch and jumped the red/green and red/blue together and it immediately blew the fuse also.
I checked the red and black bullet connectors under the shifter trim and they were NOT connected. While I was at it I pulled the radio and the harnesses all look like virgins, no funky splices or anything. I went ahead and checked the dimmer's harness and it was the same story there, all unmolested.
The fuse that keeps popping is the "TAIL ILLUM", and when it blows I get the previously mentioned symptoms: running lights stay off, and headlights stay up if rotated.
I'm at a loss here, where should I go next?
#34
Literally just saved myself by stumbling upon this thread. Bought a new dimmer since mine was broken, put it in and keep popping fueses. Ripped half the dash appart, couldnt find anything wrong, put it back together. Found this, saw the post on the pins being connecetd under the shifter trim, old owner had them put together. Unpluged them and everything worked perfect!
#35
20B/5 Speed/JC!
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Literally just saved myself by stumbling upon this thread. Bought a new dimmer since mine was broken, put it in and keep popping fueses. Ripped half the dash appart, couldnt find anything wrong, put it back together. Found this, saw the post on the pins being connecetd under the shifter trim, old owner had them put together. Unpluged them and everything worked perfect!
#36
Old [Sch|F]ool
The two bullet connectors that should never be plugged into each other are under the shift boot on the left side. You'll know them because one has a red wire with a (?) stripe.
Mazda wiring is somewhat easy, red is almost always power and they use a different color stripe to say which kind of power.
Mazda wiring is somewhat easy, red is almost always power and they use a different color stripe to say which kind of power.
#37
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Mine were on the right side tucked up under the radio, they were the only bullet style connectors I could find assuming they're wrapped together with the radio and HVAC harness.
#38
Old [Sch|F]ool
They should not be, they are down in the shifter area because they are meant to plug into the automatic's shift indicator lighting.
I cut the ends off of mine and use them to illuminate my tach.
I cut the ends off of mine and use them to illuminate my tach.
#39
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If you plug a new dimmer switch in with them wires connected,you'll fry the switch, I've been through four switches before I figured that out.them two little bullet connector wires under the shift boot, they are only supposed to be connected on an automatic car
#41
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Bringing this back up because I still haven't figured this out. I included 2 pictures of what I suspect are the bullet connectors in question and where the harness is coming from. I'm close to saying **** it and just wiring in a LED strip behind the gauges.
#42
carb whisperer
Those are for the lit automatic console, which your manual car doesn't need. Dont hook them up. If you do, you'll kill your dimmer, and the fuse.
#43
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Yes I know, they've been unhooked since I've owned the car, yet its STILL killing dimmer switches and fuses. I'm trying to to figure out why, but I wanted to double check those are the wires people have mentioned before.
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