84RX7'nSTi

I am going to transfer the brakes, rear axle, front hubs and wheels from my '85 SE to my '84 GS.

What am I getting into? What all is involved? Is it as easy as it sounds?

Do I need to order new wheel bearings for the front or are they going to be re-usable? Is it difficult to swap over the rear disc brakes/brake lines and rear axle?

I will have two racks, side by side, available to me and limited amount of help. The SE will need to be driveable after the swap, although it will only be half of an SE. How much time should it take to complete the job?

Thanks,

Mike

Midwest 7's

iTrader: (4)

pretty much.

84RX7'nSTi

I was hoping for a little more detail. Any tips?

Mike

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

I can do the complete swap (front and rear) in less than a day. If you're interested, PM me for pricing.

Midwest 7's

iTrader: (4)

well if your worried about wheel bearings and such you should pull the se rear and get it all ready before hand. the bearings are kind of a bitch because they need to be taken and have pressed in. we did a rear end swap just as you mention above in about 5 hours, that included burning out all the bushings and replacing with polyurethane witch took the majority of the time.

Hades12

You do mean that you will be swaping the entire rear end?

84RX7'nSTi

^^^^
I will start removing parts on friday night. On Saturday I will begin the swaping everything over to the '84 GS. I am hoping to have everything done by Saturday evening.

Should I be concerned with the bearings? They don't show any signs now that they would need to be replaced.

Mike

84RX7'nSTi

Yes, the complete rear axle.

Mike

Hades12

With air tools the job does not take long, One hr each to remove and one each to replace, for the rear end.

30minutes each on the front.

84RX7'nSTi

I will be using air tools. Cool, I appreciate the time estimate. Hopefully, I can get this done somewhere close to that time.

Mike

Midwest 7's

iTrader: (4)

your bearings are probably strait. if not you can always replace them just as easily with the rearend in the car down the road sometime if need be.

Hades12

You will want a 1/2 drive set and combo wrenches also.

Midwest 7's

iTrader: (4)

and a cheater bar and 3lb mini sledge.

Hades12

Real men dont need a cheater bar. Hell the last time I took one out I just used my fingers to loosten the nuts.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

When I switch the front like you are planning, I find it easiest to jack up the engine and swap the entire front suspension, including subframe, tension arms and brackets. It's much easier to do with no engine in the car.

Same goes for the rear end. Switch the watts link, sway bar, shocks and control arms as one unit. When you install the rear end, set it on a floor jack, connect the lower arms 1st, then raise the unit up until you can connect the upper control arms and the upper watts link arm, springs then shocks last.

84RX7'nSTi

I nearly completed the entire swap of components and both cars are driveable.

The only item remaining is the parking brake lines. I disconnected the lines at both the axles, but where do I disconect the parking brake lines from the vehicle?

Mike

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

handbrake

84RX7'nSTi

Will do, Thanks,

Mike

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

There is a clevis pin 1/2 way down each brake cable, seperate there, the front half of the brake cables are the same, it's the back half that is different between the disc/drums.

84RX7'nSTi

Ah, exactly what I wanted to hear.

Is the clevis pin located above the exhaust heat sheilding?

Thanks,

Mike

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

yes. That s how I converted my GS. Be careful when removing the cable from the donor car. In one of the cables, dont just yank it out of the frame OR you will brake the boot. I cant remember which side it is.

84RX7'nSTi

Cool, I will make the swap this upcoming Saturday.

Thanks again guys,

Mike