How to clean a six port?
Thread Starter
Environmentally-Hostile
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,662
Likes: 3
From: Ennis/Arlington Texas
How to clean a six port?
Now that I've disassembled everything, I'm trying to figure out what to do.
The "rods" that connect from the actuator diaphrams to the ports spin fairly easily, but the actual things inside the port (is this the sleeves?) are stucky pretty good. Can I just get some B12 and spray them down? Also, the intake is pretty nasty too. B12 that as well? I don't wanna get too much crap in my engine, but i was gonna put some sea-foam in anyways
Any advice would help. I'm on a suuuuper slow connection so i can't really search
The "rods" that connect from the actuator diaphrams to the ports spin fairly easily, but the actual things inside the port (is this the sleeves?) are stucky pretty good. Can I just get some B12 and spray them down? Also, the intake is pretty nasty too. B12 that as well? I don't wanna get too much crap in my engine, but i was gonna put some sea-foam in anyways

Any advice would help. I'm on a suuuuper slow connection so i can't really search
Yes, the things inside the ports on the engine side are the sleeves. The sleeves have to come out for you to be able to really clean them up. I didn't mess around when I did mine. I took off the entire intake, cleaned everything, and made sure that both the sleeves and the actuator rods worked like butter. I used CRC TB cleaner for everything. It leaves little or no residue. When you put the sleeves back into the engine, you can put a thin coat of oil on them and on the actuator rods.
Mike
Mike
Thread Starter
Environmentally-Hostile
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,662
Likes: 3
From: Ennis/Arlington Texas
Alright, they're all cleaned up. Which direction should the open end of the sleeve face when I re-insert them? O'clocks would work fine (ie: open end of front sleeve 3 o'clock for right)
Trending Topics
Mike
Thread Starter
Environmentally-Hostile
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,662
Likes: 3
From: Ennis/Arlington Texas
The little rod in the sleeve should line up with the little tiny notch in the LIM gasket. To be sure you have it right, when the actuator rod turns the sleeve (open) the opening in the sleeve should face the center of the engine and line up with the ports (holes) in the engine. If you stick your finger in the opening where the sleeve goes in and feel toward the center of the engine, you will feel the holes. Hope this helps.
Mike
Mike
One question, the "little rod in the sleeve" has two ends, obviously, so which end should I have facing the notch in the gasket. Also, should the rods themselves be up or to the side when I mount the intake back? The diaphrams pull the lever for the rods down right? So I'm guessing the closed position would be up.
They just seem like a design flaw because of how they can seize up like they did.
Last edited by Starfox07; Dec 16, 2008 at 09:06 PM.
Ok----for the rear sleeve----the bottom part of the rod should be at the 7-8 O' clock position, and the top of the rod should be at about the 1-2 O' clock position. For the front sleeve-----the bottom of the rod should be pointing to 4-5 O' clock position, and the top at about the 10-11 O'clock position.
Also, notice that the rod is "girthier" or fatter on the one end. It is this end that you want on the "bottom" directly over the notch in the gasket.
And yes, the rods pull down when activated from back-pressure. I had to think about this, because I'm using S5 actuators which work the opposite. So, if you work the actuator with your hand (pushing it down) it should turn the sleeves so that the opening in the sleeves are facing the "CENTER" of the engine.
Hope this helps. Let me know if there is anything else I can help you with. You can also PM me.
Mike
Also, notice that the rod is "girthier" or fatter on the one end. It is this end that you want on the "bottom" directly over the notch in the gasket.
And yes, the rods pull down when activated from back-pressure. I had to think about this, because I'm using S5 actuators which work the opposite. So, if you work the actuator with your hand (pushing it down) it should turn the sleeves so that the opening in the sleeves are facing the "CENTER" of the engine.
Hope this helps. Let me know if there is anything else I can help you with. You can also PM me.
Mike
Thread Starter
Environmentally-Hostile
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,662
Likes: 3
From: Ennis/Arlington Texas
Ok----for the rear sleeve----the bottom part of the rod should be at the 7-8 O' clock position, and the top of the rod should be at about the 1-2 O' clock position. For the front sleeve-----the bottom of the rod should be pointing to 4-5 O' clock position, and the top at about the 10-11 O'clock position.
Also, notice that the rod is "girthier" or fatter on the one end. It is this end that you want on the "bottom" directly over the notch in the gasket.
And yes, the rods pull down when activated from back-pressure. I had to think about this, because I'm using S5 actuators which work the opposite. So, if you work the actuator with your hand (pushing it down) it should turn the sleeves so that the opening in the sleeves are facing the "CENTER" of the engine.
Hope this helps. Let me know if there is anything else I can help you with. You can also PM me.
Mike
Also, notice that the rod is "girthier" or fatter on the one end. It is this end that you want on the "bottom" directly over the notch in the gasket.
And yes, the rods pull down when activated from back-pressure. I had to think about this, because I'm using S5 actuators which work the opposite. So, if you work the actuator with your hand (pushing it down) it should turn the sleeves so that the opening in the sleeves are facing the "CENTER" of the engine.
Hope this helps. Let me know if there is anything else I can help you with. You can also PM me.
Mike


