1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

How to break in Atkins apex seals

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Old 07-31-08, 09:13 PM
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How to break in Atkins apex seals



So what's the rev limit on these things anyway? I don't know how high I was going but I let off the throttle before a corner and looked down and it took about a bit before the revs came down enough for the tach to come off the peg... still going strong!
Old 07-31-08, 09:31 PM
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I cant think of anyone throwing an apex through a block.

Then again you got the chatter/flaking/bending/etc, which is an average of 82oo-85oorpm
Old 07-31-08, 10:00 PM
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That's the stock 3mm seals which chatter at 6200 and do severe damage over 8500... BTDT!

You oughta see some of the housings I've had! Chatter marks bouncing, bouncing, bouncing, worn THROUGH not just the chrome but also the STEEL! at the wear point above the spark plugs when the chamber face is at TDC firing.

I'm on 2mm seals now... which are supposed to take the abuse... and the Atkins are supposed to be better/lighter/something? than the Mazda steels. And they're new with new springs!
Old 07-31-08, 10:42 PM
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This how I like to "break" them in



Old 08-01-08, 01:32 AM
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[QUOTE=peejay;8429270]That's the stock 3mm seals which chatter at 6200 and do severe damage over 8500... BTDT!

You oughta see some of the housings I've had! Chatter marks bouncing, bouncing, bouncing, worn THROUGH not just the chrome but also the STEEL! at the wear point above the spark plugs when the chamber face is at TDC firing.
...
/QUOTE]

Sufficient warning about over-revving.

Just because you don't hear valves crashing doesn't mean it's not over-revving. You don't hear it because THE ENGINE HAS NO VALVES!
Old 08-01-08, 01:39 AM
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For the love of all things rotary get a GSL rear end. I like that first pic though.
Old 08-01-08, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by orion84gsl
For the love of all things rotary get a GSL rear end. I like that first pic though.
How do you know he doesn't? Just because it's a limited slip doesn't mean that it actually does anything useful. (The 4 spider gears helps strength a lot, though)

My GSL rears all do one wheel burnouts... there's not enough load on them when doing a burnout.
Old 08-01-08, 11:26 PM
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mine has no lsd. when i make a turn and hammer the throttle, the inside wheel spins. but from a standstill, both tires let loose. so whatever rearend i have, it will do a burnout with both tires.

as for the apex seals, i used factory replacements along with all the other internal seals and just done the normal breakin. took it easy, kept the rpms under 4k for the first 1k miles.
Old 08-02-08, 12:02 AM
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dont want to send the thread in the wong direction but my lsd lights 2 wheels up98% of the time.

i thought stock seals could handle more rpm then that are you sure your info's correct.
Old 08-02-08, 12:18 PM
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peejay's info is pretty acurate. He actually tests these things in real world situations rather than parroting information.
Old 08-02-08, 07:13 PM
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The chattering and extreme housing wear starts at 6200rpm with the 3mm seals. Engines driven like babies have good housings, engines that have been wound out all the time generally have horrible looking housings.

The fatality happens over 8500.

Been there, done that, pile of dead engines over there in the corner, jumped ship to 2mm seal engines and no looking back!

Carbon seals are nice but you still have the roll pin problems with the '85-earlier rotors.
Old 08-02-08, 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by orion84gsl
For the love of all things rotary get a GSL rear end. I like that first pic though.
HAHAHA


Well when I was young and dumb, I didnt even have the engine running ten minutes before I was flying down the street at red line. Didnt phase them about, hell the clutch gave out before the seals did.
Old 08-03-08, 12:23 AM
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the atkins seals are softer than the Mazda seals. the idea is that they have faster breakin and you can use them with old housings. they say after a week of heat cycles that they are broken in. I wouldn't rev them over 4k for the first week. there are a **** load of atkins horror stories in the NW section so I'd be carefull with breakin before you hammer on them.
Old 08-03-08, 10:20 AM
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Weird... I put a picture in the thread and it doesn't show up.

The picture was supposed to show how I broke them in....

Rehosted:



I think I hit 8k before I went ten miles Went to the dragstrip after 400, went to the rallycross at 900 so it was a bit over 1100 when I got there...

I clearanced them properly. Almost all of the "horror stories" are people who throw them in without checking. I had to file a lot off of the ends and I had to file the slots in the rotors a good amount, too, just to get clearances to the tight end of spec. (1.5 thou' end clearance, 2.5 thou' slot clearance)

Plus I am using the cryogenic treated ones, which are supposed to be more dimensionally stable.
Old 08-04-08, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff20B
peejay's info is pretty acurate. He actually tests these things in real world situations rather than parroting information.
Sorry, never stuck my head inside a running engine before.
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