jdmminot

iTrader: (6)

I have searched on the HSA removal and found lots of information, but no one ever specified if, and how they removed the lever. According to this exploded view from the carb manual, it looks as though I should be able to pull off the parts and springs one by one, and remove it without any trouble.

My question is, although it looks easy, will I be pulling apart something that is difficult to put back correctly? Have any of you removed this, and did you need to add a metal washer or spacer to compensate?

Any input is much appreciated. Thanks, Justin

jdmminot

iTrader: (6)

Title should be Hot Start Assist Lever Removal on Nikki Carb... not sure why I put bracket.

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

It's easy to take apart the linkage, the hard part is reassembling it correctly. Even with the carb diagram handy it can be tricky. If you have a spare carb laying around that you can use as a reference, that helps a lot with assembly. Every time you get stuck you can look at your other carb for help. If you don't have another carb, then just take a bunch of pictures and be VERY VERY organized. Each time you remove a piece of the linkage lay it face up or down, and put them all in a straight line, in the order you removed them.

As far as removing #137 the hot start assist linkage: Linkages #135 and #137 both ride on sleeve #134. Spacer #136 goes on the sleeve also in between #135 and #137 to keep everything space properly and keep them from binding up. If you remove #137 (the hot start lever) then you are going to have extra slop left over in the linkage since it's thickness is no longer there to keep the assembly tight. You don't want that. You could add a washer that is the same diameter and thickness as the middle portion of #137 if you can find one.

I found this to be easier: I actually trimmed mine down #137 with my dremel and bench grinder, effectively turning it into a round washer that is the right size. I used the dremel to cut off the two tabs, and then rounded it out with the bench grinder. When I got done I had a perfect shaped washer to take up the slack.

So the short version is don't eliminate #137, just re-shape it. Just cut off the tabs and turn it into a washer with your bench grinder. Then reinstall everything as before. You won't even notice that it's there when you get done, but the linkage will still be nice and tight and work like it's supposed to.

Jamie

jdmminot

iTrader: (6)

Thanks Jamie! I was just worrying that I wouldn't be able to find a good washer or spacer... but why not use the one thats already on there! Good stuff, thanks for the help

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

No problem. I just did mine a couple of months ago. I was out in the garage staring at it trying to figure out how I was going to find a washer that size. Then I thought, "Hey, I've already got one! It's just the wrong shape!"

Let me know if you have any more questions about that linkage. It can be confusing.

jdmminot

iTrader: (6)

Done! I took a bunch of pictures before I started.. and a single pic of each thing I pulled off in order. I just used a jigsaw for the lever, and it actually made a pretty clean cut. Went back together super easy, and works great.

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

I cleaned a whole bunch of crap off my linkage and it looks way better now. Works easier too. I think I only have 1 or 2 linkage arms left. It's amazing how much crap is on these carbs you don't need.

jdmminot

iTrader: (6)

I took off the cruise control arm 139 as well, beings it rides on the bushing 138. the only two cables left running to the carb are the accelerator, and the fast idle/choke on top. much cleaner, and I sprayed some remington gun oil on the throttle linkage.

I have a box full of stuff from stripping my carb, and I am keeping every little piece in hopes of soon weighing it. That, plus the entire a/c system in the engine bay, along with the air pump, acv, rats nest and all the emissions removal, that'll end up being a lot of weight! At first it seems like a pain that mazda added something everywhere they could, regardless of its functionality, but it gives me something to do all winter!

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

Don't forget to take out the studs on the side of the engine where the AC compressor bracket mounts. Every little bit of weight counts. I think there are 2-3 studs you can remove there.

jdmminot

iTrader: (6)

I still have that bracket in there, as it's holding my power steering (i think?) However my power steering resevoir likes to empty itself as fast as you can fill it up, and I'm not sure where it is going. I'm looking into options to get rid of my p/s all together.

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

Ahhh. I've never had a 1st gen with power steering. Forgot about that.

bmeyer

iTrader: (5)

JDM, is that the railroad trestle in Minot in that pic?? Neat place over there. I've been there once when I was 15 and we were messing around in the area. Nice car, as well. Looks very clean.

jdmminot

iTrader: (6)

Thanks! Yes that's trestle valley just outside of the city.. and tube picture really only shows half of the structure. It's one of my favorite places to cruise the rx in the summer.. its wide open flat highway, and then you just drop into the huge valley. It's awesome, i'll have to post up some pics from the top this summer.

ray green

iTrader: (14)

JDM if you are looking to lose some weight you can shed about 100 lbs really fast and never miss it by removing your power steering (along with the AC). The bracket for that thing alone must weigh 25 lbs.

I pulled my first one because I didn't want to fix a leaking pump, but ended up preferring the steering without power, it has a better feel to it.

I think that trestle is cool too!

jdmminot

iTrader: (6)

I have a leaking pump as well, and would love to go manual steering. Did you depower your p/s? Or swap in a manual setup. Im not worried about how hard it is to turn, as i've already been driving with it broken, and it wasn't that difficult. It would be nice to get that stuff out of there though.

ray green

iTrader: (14)

You just "depower" the stock unit. Remove the pump, pluming and mounting bracket, then make a loop to seal the hydraulic fluid in the stock steering box. The power steering boxes are actually more heavy duty than the non-power units and hold up better. It's very hard to find a non-power steering box that doesn't have a lot of play in it. In fact many people "upgrade" their non-power units by replacing it with a power steering box without the pump hooked up.

Here's a photo of the loop I put in:

jdmminot

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the info, and for the picture! As soon as you posted it, I thought.. I could do that! I just went out and stripped the power steering as well as the sub zero start assist, and I think I've passed the 100 pounds of junk removal mark! Here is my loop, thanks again.

ray green

iTrader: (14)

Cheers, looking good!

You know on that hot start assist lever (if you haven't pulled it out or ground it down yet) the easiest thing to do is just tie it up out of the way to the throttle cable mount with one of those plastic wire ties.

I always prefer conservative changes when I can make them, you never know when you might be wanting to go back (ie save your PS pump!)

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

^+1 to the limits of available storage.

Even true for some non-upgrade swaps, as the day will come where your 'new' part will have worn even more than the part you replaced was... and by then likely you can't get new ones!

ray green

iTrader: (14)

I sure do like that trestle