Cuttin the Grass

Newbie here. I'm considering purchasing a 1983 Mazda RX-7 (not sure yet if it's GSL/ GSL-SE). I'm gaining more knowledge everyday by reading this site and its helpful links (not to kiss *** or anything, but this site sure has a wealth of information). I've read through the 1st Gen FAQs, and I have one question that will make me punch myself in the face when I realize the answer, but here goes...

1) Do RX-7s have a higher compression ratio than boingers? I'm frustrated that I cannot remember this small fact.

I have a second question more relavant to buying an RX-7. I know that Japanese and many other car manufacturers in the 70s and 80s had a tough time with rust, especially the 240Z. From my experience, if you can see rust on a car, there is probably rust were you can't see it as well. Has anyone ever experienced a true rust problem with their first-gen RX-7? Is rust even that much of a problem on the first-gen RX-7 (I am talking not only the exterior but the interior and chassis as well)? If so, what can be done about it?

tempusfugitive

mine has no surface rust at all, but i have holes under the plastic cover behind the front wheels, major rust behind the bins, as well as under the front left/right fenders and under the body behind the back tires

compression ratio is 9.4 :1 don't know how that compares boingers

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

First off... If the car you're looking at is an 83 then it can't be a GSL-SE. I'd say more than likely you're looking at an 83 GSL. The GSL-SE's didn't appear until 84. They made them again in 85 before switching to the second gen body style. So unless you're looking at an 84-85 (Series 3) first gen, then it can't be an SE.

As far as rust, there are a few key places you'll want to look. The WORST place for rust on our cars is in the front half of the rear wheel wells. This also spreads underneath the storage bins on the inside of the car. If you want to check for rust you'll have to remove the storage bins inside the car and glance at the rear wheel wells from the inside. This will be your best indicator as to the shape of the car. This rust can be repaired, but many times it is too far gone. I just finished repairing the storage bin rust on my 85 GS. It is a job, but it can be done.

If you want to find more information about rust, try searching out these topics in the first generation specific section, "storage bin rust" "bin rust" "bin cancer" You'll find lots of good pics.

Below is a minor case of storage bin cancer. This would require cutting and welding of new metal, but in some cases the wheel wells will be rusted through.

Aviator 902S

As for whether this car is a GSL or a GS, check the rear brakes. If they are drum type you have a GS, or possibly even a base-model S. If the car has rear disc brakes it's a GSL. Other standard equipment on the GSL includes limited-slip differential, power windows, sun roof, power mirrors and rear window wiper. GSL options were leather, power steering (limited edition only) and air cond.

As for rust, all of the above with regard to the storage bin rust is true. But another critical area to watch for is the forward unibody frame members in the lower engine bay, particularly where the steering box and idler arm attach to the frame. This area is also prone to rust which may not even be apparent at first glance. But if it is there and it's too far gone avoid this car--- it is beyond economic repair, and getting it exactly right would be a daunting task since the steering linkage is attached there and proper positioning of these components is critical.

Other areas where rust can hide on these cars are the bottom inside portions of both doors, body seams under the rear bumper, inside the fender wells (especially the rear ones), rocker panel seams and under the winshield trim.

Cuttin the Grass

Thanks a lot for all of your replies. My bad on the GSL/GSL-SE, I meant GS/GSL. Been reading a lot on the late 1st-gen's.

Would the rust produce any problems, anywhere from being ugly, not passing inspection, or having the rear end fall off? I plan on keeping this car for a good, hard driven 3 years. And by hard driving I don't mean "I have to get to work on time so I'll try to test the actual claimed top speed."

jays83gsl

Well, depending on the rust, it could be bad for business (falling through the car isn't a good thing!)

But, usually, if you're only planning on using it for a few years, it won't cause TOO much trouble.

Felgar

Well if you dont fix the wheel wells (assuming they're rusted) then you'll get water underneath your compartments which might not affect the car's ability to move, but stink and mold can be objectionable for the driver and passenger.

Other than that the steering components are one area of mechanically serious rust as pointed by Aviator (I've not had this problem but I'll take his word for it). And of course the exhaust can rust out but that's a problem of all cars not just Rx's.

In general no, unless the car is totally rusted (i.e. very obviously severely rusted) then I don't think it poses a mechanical threat.

Edit: Beaten by J...

Aviator 902S

Come to think of it, there is one other irksome problem that can happen due to storage bin rust, as happened with the 2nd of four first gens I've owned:

Water will leak in from the rear wheel wells and pool on the floor under the storage bin carpeting--- exactly where the plastic electrical wiring coupler for all electrical circuitry to the rear of the car is. This coupler supplies power to the tail lights, rear window wiper (if GSL or SE), licence plate light and---- the electric fuel pump, which is located under the car just forward of the fuel tank. When the water leaks into this coupler it fries the connection. What a bitch and a half it was locating that fuel-delivery problem!

jays83gsl

I didn't even think of that! Thanks for the tip on that, Aviator.

Felgar

Yup, good point Aviator. Mine never got that bad but I can see it hapenning.

Nut Job

Lets just say......the driver lap belt ripped right out becase of rust.....so.....you might say its a rust barrel.

jays83gsl

Whoah. That's intense.

Cuttin the Grass

Thanks for all of your help. Once again, this has gotta be the most helpful auto forum I have been to. But I must bother you for one last question: from what you guys are saying, most (if not everybody) had to repair rust. How far will this set you back, considering money, labor, time, and the all-important frustration factor?

Felgar

Money - not very much at all. If it's not thaaaaat extensive then you can use fiberglass, resin, and tar to patch it up (I did mine 6 years ago and it's still good, but cutting out and welding is a more permanent approach). Depending on how far you want to go attacking cosmetic rust you could also use some POR-15 in those areas where you want to make every effort to prohibit further creep. The fiberglass and tar would be aound $50 or so and the POR-15 another 50 just rough off of the top of my head.

As for labour and time the wheel wells (usually the main concern) could be done in a good long day (say 15-20 hours including the repair of the rust and the tar in the 2 rear wheel wells). Depending on how far you take the rest of the rust it can take a loooong time to attack it all. I spent probably at least 200 hours over a 4 month stretch to do mine. Heh...

Remember to check out the problem areas already listed before buying. Pretty much every car will have the wheel well problems, but look for the others if you're not keen on spending time to fix them.

Oh and last I should point out that if you're buying an old car then it will be rusted. These are not unique in that property. Buying one from an environment that has no winter and NEVER salts or sands/gravels roads is your best bet to getting one with minimal rust. But if you have a climate where roads ice and they salt.... Well every 20 year old will be severely rusted, and it will take major effort to keep it from rusting more. Here in Calgary cars start rusting after abour 5 years unless they're taken great car of, and by 10 most every car is starting to rust pretty bad. Sure you may not see the rust initially, but believe me it's there.

jays83gsl

Buy from Southern New Mexico, Arizona, places like that. We have *generally* rust free cars. If you have no choice in the matter, well, grin and bear it

Felgar

Ya. I'll have to decide in 2-3 years whether I want to go hunting for a perfect 1st gen body that I can keep for 20+ years as a nostalgic Sunday driver... If I do I'll be looking down there for sure.