Nick- 84

Ok, I hooked up my direct fire and the car started decent. I noticed that it idled like total crap. The motor was shaking real bad and the idle was very eratic. Before the direct fire installation the car did not idle the best. It surged a little, but know it is all screwed up. After about 1000-1200 the car runs as usually with an occasional sputter.

I tried to adjust the tps by hand (by listening to the clicking noise), but it did not help or hurt the idle. ((I found that the lights always come on when you hear the click, so I adjust the tps between the two clicks as you would with the lights.))
I then tried to raise the idle by turning the idle adjust screw that is found on top of the intake plenum; this did not help at all the idle barely changed, and the car idled like crap.

What is wrong with my set up? My direct fire system is based off the GM HEI ignitors. I use the stock trailing ignitor. There is a capacitor that comes off of the dizzy, I think it is for electrical interference. I did not run a dedicated wire from it to the negative terminal on the trailing coil, like your supposed to. Could this be one of my problems.

Oh yeah, my car also floods every time I start it

Car: 1984 Gsl-se

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Is the blue spade connector connected to the trailing coil or the leading? With DLDFIS, the leading spark happens twice as often so if the blue spade connector is connected to the leading coil, the injectors will fire twice as often (ECU thinks the RPM is twice what it really is). This would make for a poor idle and tendency to flood.

Just an idea.

Kent

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I don't know much about the GSL-SE's fuel injection stuff, so I can't help you there.

Where did you get your information from regarding the little capacitor on the distributor housing? I state in my article that it should be connected to the wire which runs between the B terminal of the trailing ignitor and the + side of the coil(s). Basically, it gets 'juice' when the ignition switch is on and should not be connected to the negative side of any of the coils.

Regarding the tach signal wire which is fed into the ECU, why would you want to change it from its stock connection point on the trailing coil's negative terminal to one of the leading coils? It honestly wouldn't matter though because each coil still sparks twice per revolution of the engine, regardless of whether it's the trailing coil or the leading coils. In other words, with DLIDFIS, the leading spark doesn't happen twice as often; it happens just as often as it did one the stock single leading coil. Confusing? Only the leading spark plugs see a spark twice as often.

I hope I've answered more questions just now than I've created.

DAVID GRIMES

"There is a capacitor that comes off of the dizzy, I think it is for electrical interference. I did not run a dedicated wire from it to the negative terminal on the trailing coil, like your supposed to. Could this be one of my problems."

From your post, it sounds like you didn't follow instructions from the right person or at least follow the instructions you did have. I'd start all over with something from Jeff if I were you... but of course, I'm not. That might be better and easier than untangling the problems with your setup.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

You're right, Jeff. Didn't take time to think about it first. The stock does use the trailing coil as the reference. Maybe if it is connected to the leading, he could try to switch it to the trailing. That may indicate if there is a problem in the leading ignition.