How does one attain a higher red line? I assume rebuilding, but what exactly?

 

bridgeporting or peripheral port with supporting mods (IE hardened stationary gear, race bearings, bigger carb, etc....)
Not very streetable though.

 

so its porting?

 

Depends on how far you want to go...

Porting, clearancing, hardened stationary gears, balancing, etc.

 

Well proper porting will shift your powerband into the higher RPMs. From the factory you can run the car over the redline, but the powerband ends at around the redline, so its pointless to.

You would also want to have oil modifications that can keep up with your motor. I dunno how some of the high RPM guys overcome apex seal chatter though...

 

depending on setup, they use carbon seals.

 

As for the Stat Gears, go with the RX8 ones, I paid less than $250CDN, they are hardened, and have multiwindow bearings.

 

Interesting, I haven't really read alot of the theory on the carbon seals and how that would stop chatter. I should really look and read more into it though, its interesting stuff.

Once you start talking about carbon seals, clearancing, lightweight internals, race clearancing, oil modifications, P-porting, your talking HUGE money.

Wow I just looked on mazdatrix.com, and it looks like you can get front and rear RX-8 hardened stat gears (as previously mentioned) for about 200 USD as well. Damn, I didn't realize they were that cheap. Now I just need to consider if I want to go with a RX-8 eccentric shaft with my build as well...

 

I searched for "high rpm" in the 1st gen section, with results in the title only, and came up with this.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=high+rpm

Oh the magic.

 

^ you're late!








j/k

 

why would you need to make the redline higher isent it already kinda high for a normal car and the fact that you can rev them high without worrying unlike other cars?

 

I got here as fast as I could once I heard some non-searching was going on.

Higher redline, generally with the modifications to support it = more power. Higher redline allows more "bangs" in the same ammount of time, so more power.

1st gens at the time had a high redline, now 7K is around the norm.

No, you can rev them high, but you still have to worry about them.

 

Damn, Honda V-Tech engine redline stock at 9000, and the stock 12a is pretty low on HP, a well built ported 12a can expect to bring up to 280 HP, that's the reason to port, not rpm

 

^Yeah, I didn't want to get into all of the detail, obviously a stockport 12A won't be making 280 hp if you raise the redline 2K, so I just lumped that into the "supporting modifications" category.

 

Porting and oil pressure.

 

Porting, rotor clearancing, balancing, hardened stationary gears, 3 window bearings, larger oil pump, higher oil pressure. These mods more than double the cost of a full rebuild kit. Patrs and machine work run close to 2k, before the engine is even assembled.

Carbon apex seals don't chatter as much because they are lighter and softer, so the won't 'bounce' like the steel ones. This is the only cheaper part in the entire build. They also don't like boost.

 

Lol, I was thinking about Ceramic apex seals when I wrote my last statement about the price. Longevity goes way down with carbon seals, but if your building a engine that frequents the extreme RPM's you can't expect a long engine life anyways.

 

I've been tossing around the idea of ceramic seals and the cermet coating for the TII build, haven't gotten past the cost issue yet. By the time I'm done with the wish list for all the parts for the build, I could have 6k in parts alone, that's what I have in the entire build so far.

 

so if you were to rebuild, balance, change bearings, 1. would you need to change counterweights, and 2. which would be closer to streetable, bridge, periph, or what? sorry newb to the diff port options outside of street port. thanks