http://racingbeat.com/FRmazda1.htm
i didnt have the money to fork out for that, so after pondering my "sealed ropr) and looking at threads i decided to try and shim this one,

so i got out the drill and pulled the pin that secures the whole unit together found some washers that are together just above 1/8th of an inch (which is supposed to allow oil to be bypassed at 100psi, i want about that psi
please tell my what you think possible problems and what is a good amount of oil psi for a 12a turbo motor, running on the street at aprox 200hp daily driven is 100 psi too much
also how much should i shim the front oil reg, i couldnt seem to find this answer, and it says 8 inches on racing beat,
oh i also have plans to get an se pump,
ill have pics up tommorow if anyone is interested and wants to do this, i will try the setup, but i may revise it with a screw adjustable style or guestimate to make a lower psi,

 

100psi might be pushing it. i have mine around 85psi. too much and u'll blow the oil filter off of it. i only added washers to the one on the rear housing.

 

not its not. Im running a FD ROPR and it pegged my 100 PSI gauge. Had to switch to a 200 PSI autometer. I havent popped anything even at 110 psi.

 

cool
wackyracer do you have your front opr shimmed, i read your supposed to do thatm but i dont know how much
i have a 2nd gen fmoc so would it be bettter to have a bit more flowin through that,
also what do you guys have as for oil lines?
i have hydrolic hoses clamped around cut off oil lines and h'avent had any problems with it,

 

i use the stock oil lines and also using a front mount cooler.

 

I have about 5psi hot idle and about 30-40psi hot cruise.

Unless you're spinning monster mega RPM and have huge bearing clearances, you just don't *need* sludge oil and high pressure.

 

For rotaries general rule is 10psi oil pressure per 1000 rpms. Since you don't want to spin a 12a over 8000rpms unless the rotating assmebly has been balanced, have clearanced rotors and bearings, hardened stationary gears and ur using carbon or ceramic apex seals:

85psi is just groovey.

Now, if it's a turbo motor you may want 110psi since it's flowing oil to the turbo, which heats the oil and creates a pressure drop.

Keep in mind, increasing oil pressure does increase wear on oil pump and oil consumption.

 

100 PSI ROPR on the RX-3. Still running strong after over 5 years of daily abuse and over 250 hard runs @ LACR. Having a good oil pressure helps a lot IMHO since I drive my cars like I stole them.

 

Cool Mel! When is that peripheral port going in?

 

I run the RB race regulator (115psi). I installed it while waiting on my new cooler hoses to be built but the increased pressure burst the factory lines within 20 miles of the install. Mine also pegged the factory gauge and I am running the mechanical Autometer 200 psi. Only negative effects I would say is the increased pressure will quickly find any weak spots in the oil system.

 

cool thanks guys, still dont know how much to shim the front opr if im running over 100psi thanks guys
cool info, im glad to hear 5 years and running strong eh whackyracer

 

please post some pics for i am very interested.

 

ok ill get some for tommorow, just in the process of building up my first rotary any tips, haha, haha the 54 mm bolt was a b#$%ch

 

there are several ways to make a HP ROPR even with the pre-80 or the 810. the pre-80's have a removable rear cap that you can shim.

Now for the 80+, there are 2 ways to modify it. Smack the front end with a sledge hammer. this will shorten the housing and will make the spring stiff. The other, well you have to drill out the original rivet (not sure if thats the right word). This will allow you to remove the spirng assembly so you can shim it.

 

I prefer the sledge hammer about 10mm's down and you will have between 90-100psi works great and takes all but 10mins,if that, to do it.