phantommaggot

Hi
i am gonna in the market for an fb in the next few weeks if my loan comes throu.
and i have some questions..

i want an 81+
and since i want 4 wheel disk brakes and LSD ill be looking at getting a GSL or GSL-SE. is that correct?

plans for the car are daily driver, spirited back road driver, and auto-x car

also (the real questions)

if i happened to get a GSL SE of a FI 12a car.. does it change my Auto-x class to put a carb on it?? ( i definatly want a carb on my car)
the only other mods i plan to do are suspension and exhaust. for refrence to auto-x class.

can GSL/SE cars be had with manual windows and no sunroofs?
are the sunroof models heavier than the hardtops?

and are the 12a cars easier to get parts for? (performance and factory replacement) I wouldnt mind having the 13b but id hate to have to pay more for the parts...

thanks to anyone who has any info.

i searched around a bit, and read the faqs. and these are the questions im left with. i may have found the answers with more time. but i dont have much of that sutff

thanks alot.
-J

OnlyOnThurs

GSL-SE's are all 13B Fuel Injected and never came Carbed 12A'ed. GSL have 4 wheel disk, LSD, and all came with Nikki Carb and equipped with the 12A.

clbsinvaders

Suspension and exhaust may put you into street prepared-I'm no expert on classes so don't take my word as 100% truth.

gigglesnirt

last year i was put in c-stock prepared with suspension and exhaust.

phantommaggot

I know lol
thats why i was aking lol..

awsome.. thats what i need.
Thanks b(^_^)


it probably would.. i just wanted to make shure carbing a 13b wouldnt bump me up any farther..

i have a AW11 with a 2nd gen silvertop and it really isnt suited for the SM class i have to run in. but since its a jdm version of the motor.. i have to run there..

that would be even nicer..
could i stay in that class with a carbed 13b

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

All SEs came with sunroof and power windows, it was the flagship model, so it had most everything already installed with few options. If you want a non-sunroof model, you will need to find a GS or S model, then upgrade to the lsd. Depending on class rules, upgrade to the entire SE suspension if you can. Better brakes and wider wheel choice if they allow for wheel/tire upgrades from stock.

phantommaggot

how much do you actually have to swap when doing the rear end..
just the brakes and diff.. or is it the entire thing..
are the rear brakes the only difference..
or are the fronts different too?

a link would be amazing..

thanks again for the help
-J

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Swap everything, the entire rearend and front struts complete with brakes. You will also need the last brake cable on each side for the SE rear when switching from a drum unit.

phantommaggot

are the sunroof cars reinforced to make up for the sunroof in any way..

if not.. then why not just source manual doors and a fiberglass filler for the sunroof.. wouldnt that be cheaper/easier

sorry if this seems a little nooish..
my mr2 suffers extra weight because of the t-tops..

i want to make shure i get the right car..

i may end up just getting a gsl-se and removing usless junk.. like fuel injection, sound dampening, and so on.. that way i can still have a little extra power without modding myself out of a class lol

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Yes, there is extra reinforcing in the roof on the sunroof models, Replacing it with a fiberglass unit will give some weight reduction, along with removing the extra hardware that comes with the sunroof. Carbing a stock SE engine, along with exhaust upgrades will yield greater hp gains than an exhaust system alone. You will also need to change out the FI fuel pump. Depending on what carb upgrades are legal, a Weber IDA provides the most mid-top end gains, unless you want to screw with a Holley, but I can't recommend them for a track car, other than straight line, think drag strip.

Rebuilding the SE engine and converting it to 4-port, instead of 6 can increase the gain with the carb also, if that's legal. Installing an S5 NA rotating assembly during the rebuild will add a bit more, along with a light weight flywheel.

You won't need to change the doors, simply the window mechanisn/crank and the door panels.

phantommaggot

are sunroof cars as rigid as hardtops

i dont know if ill go as far as a rebuild untill i can finish up my MR2

i was just looking at things to simplify the engine bay of my car
i figure if i kill off FI and the Emissions that should clean things up a bit. and then work from there

im looking to make it clean, simple, and fun.
but not too in depth yet

you sir have been a big help. thanks!!


O ya
how do they elminate ports?
do they fill them or something..

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Rigidity should be very similiar. To go 4-port, use 12A end plates during the rebuild, this will also require a different intake manifold. You can also use the 12a center iron to eliminate the injector ports or buy the plug kit from either Mazdatrix or RB.

gigglesnirt

you might be able to stay in csp with a carb but im not sure you might want to check in the scca rulebook or your local autox forums if you can, just to warn you though if you stay in csp you'll have some tough competition with some miatas which are generally faster, but its all for good fun anyway.

clbsinvaders

AW11, my friend has one. Blast to drive. I think his is an 88, NA 4-AGE.

phantommaggot

like i said before..
right now my MR2 is in SM2 with ground controls, tokiko 5 ways, and a silvertop. (silvertops make like 130hp at the wheels.. ) so i am definatly outclassed..

but ill check.
ill probably ask the first one i go to.. as ill be in the mr2 and working on the 7

how do the 12As hold up to the 13Bs in things like auto-x. i figure the more tq the better..

gas mleage is a factor too. cause this will be my daily. which is why id prefer a 12A
but thats what this thread is for..

can the extra 30 hp be made up for on a 12a without messing up gas mileage too bad..
what a dellorto carb do to gas mileage on a 13b?

im trying to weigh the pros and cons.. but in the end i guess i should get a 12a gsl
dellorto carb with the RB setup
RB exhaust setup and my choice muffler
suspension
weight reduction and cleaning up

call it a day..
for a while (>.<)!!

probably is
they also came supercharged from the factory
those little things will surprise you..

my car has a 20v 4ag swapped in.
so it still the same botom end with alot of nice newer features.
like vvt, 4 more valves,ITBs and 8k rpms

ill get some good pics up soon..
just got some wheels for it.. working on getting them powdercoated, or re-painted..

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

The Dells are long out of production and some parts are getting harder to find. Weber is a better bet as they are still in production, have better parts availibility and support.

Full exhaust and carb upgrade will put a 12A on par with a stock SE, perhaps even a little bit better due to the weight differential.

phantommaggot

awsome
well i guess ill start hunting for a GSL
lol
so .. do they stick it out for the long haul.. or am i gonna have to take a loan out to rebuild it as soon as i get it..

what will a carb and exhaust do to gas mileage
seems since thats a good flow mod it shouldnt hurt it so much.. even tho it may need a little more gas..

and for those interested..
heres a pic of my AW11 right after i got it..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...x/PICT0002.jpg

and the engine
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...gotxxx/12s.jpg

after saturday it wont have those crappy stickers on the fenders anymore
and itll have factory side skirts
i also got a set of enkei RSIII wheels. striaght JDM yo.. lol...
here is what they should look like..
but when i got them they were raped.. i was mad.. but stuck.. so im trying like hell to get them apart and powdercoated.. but they are a hassle..
i finally got a way to get the weird bolts out.. but now i cant get the center out of the barrel. it may as well be welded in..
they are 2 peice too.. so they should just pull out..(>.<)!!!
bleh.. lol

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

12As have been known to go over 300k. Maintainance is the key. Oil/filter changes every 3k and never overheat them. Of course your fuel mileage will go down, but tuning and sensible driving makes all the difference. My 1/2 bp, with a Mikuni, has been as bad a 8.5 mpg, in town, short trip driving in the winter. I have also gotten 24 on the interstate on long trips driving the speed limit.

phantommaggot

is that all the carbs fault. and what year is your car

i was looking up 12a specs and they were rated for 30 mpg highway after 1980

but then again you never know about what they say.

my corrado would get like 40 MPG if i drove it right, i put like 2 gallons of 100 octane in and got like 45. i was excited.

can the factory carb mount to the racing beat manifold?
this one
may seem stupid.. but i like the way that looks in the bay..
like this
or is that only for dellorto? or possibly webber?

if i can get a list.. and it isnt too expensive i may be able to pick up a car and get some stuff done to it pretty quick.
then its all about maintaining it.. and enjoying it

thanks again
for being awsome and putting up with my noobishness

phantommaggot

nvmd some of the upper post..
i poked around the board some more and found pics of your engine bay lolhere

it seems that your carb mounts the same way..
its shuch a clean look..

can webbers be mounted like that as well?

so ill be looking at
car
manifold
carb

exhaust manifold
exhaust

suspension

and lots of care and clean up!

sorry, it wouldnt let me edit above post...

clbsinvaders

Best way to produce power is to let it breathe. If you're standing still, breathing through a straw is no problem. Running, however, with the straw, is different. (SCC or Grassroots?)
Get the carb and manifold, and get the carb tuned. Exhaust. Full System. go Racing Beat. Personally, I would get the car and make sure it is stable before modding it. Give it a once over and spend your extra money on the parts you need to keep it running. A stock RX-7 is just as fun, to a slightly lesser degree though, than a modified one.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

All of the sidedraft carbs, Dellorto DHLA, Mikuni 44PHH and the Weber Dcos, have the same bolt pattern and will mount to both the 1 piece and 2 piece intake manis.

I agree with clbinvaders, once you get the car, make sure everything is in working condition and up to spec before modding. There's no point in starting hp mods until the car can stop, steer and supply fuel. You don't want to buy a bunch of aftermarket parts, then not have enough cash to get the car roadworthy. I spent alone 1100 in parts upgrading the entire brake and suspension systems before I even started on the engine mods.

Once that was done, I installed a decent used engine with the carb and exhaust upgrades to make sure the braking and suspension systems were performing as expected. When I was satisfied with that, well, check the link for the later mods.

https://www.rx7club.com/build-threads-293/unvieling-12a-bp-widebody-462184/

clbsinvaders

AW11- my friends is NA although he hoped it was supercharged when he bought it. Still fun as heck to drive. Like a go cart. I'm buying another FB myself, as a daily driver. I am going to have to make sure everything is stable and in good working order before modding it. I'm staying simple, like rats nest, intake and exhaust. Maybe a short shifter. Good luck and keep us up on it~!

phantommaggot

ya, i know as much. lol never mod a car that isnt in as good as new shape..
there was a point in time when i owned a VW corrado.. that was a good lesson in never getting to modify the car because keeping it alive cost so much more money..

what is the difference between the brands of carbs?

clbsinvaders

Different CFM's and designs mostly.
Also the milage shouldn't be amazing. Around 15-20.