bahlorm

Okay I got a lot fixed on this car today. I removed the rat's nest the right way or at least I hope I did. There was only 1 thing that confused me on the tutorial but I think I figured it out and the car runs pretty well. I cleaned the engine and I managed to find the notches in my pulley to be able to time the car. I guess I timed the car to the right notch since there are only 2 and the leading and trailing are both lined up with 1 of the notches, and its not the same notch lol. The only thing I have not gotten rid of is a hesitation the car is having when pushing on the gas while it idles. If you barely get on the gas it won't do it, but if you're on the gas hard it will bog down and then rev up, and it only does it while idling. I can hit the gas any time after its revved and it shoots up pretty quick. I have not driven it since it burned through 2 gallons of gas within 10 miles and I have no gas gauge that works, which will hopefully get fixed this week. But, I am stumped at what is causing the hesitation. And this did the same thing before I removed the rat's nest also, so it wasn't a new thing.


Also, I have another question that is not related to this but I figured there is no sense in making another thread. The guy I bought this from has told me that this 85 rx7 is the championship edition and only had a certain amount of numbers made. It has a sticker on the back window that says 84-85 rx7 championship edition that is gold but really anyone could stick on stickers. I have not heard of a championship edition or see a difference in this car and any other standard 85 rx7. So is this guy full of **** or is it actually possible? I myself am thinking he is full of **** and if he is then I will be taking that damn thing off when I get this car running and tint the windows.

88blkiroc

Most 1st gens have that sticker. Nothing special unfortunitly. As for the hesitation, take the air cleaner off the engine and look down into it as you have someone else rev the engine. You should see a squirt of gas from the accelerator pump. If you dont see that or it looks weak, my guess is you need a carburator rebuild. My car has the same issue and I know my pump shot is pretty weak. Welcome to the wonderful world of carburators.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

those stickers represent the racing heritage of the rx7 over the yrs in the IMSA racing events. i believe they were put on by the manufacturer or the dealers, not sure. but not put on by just anyone. not sure of the full details of them but some rx7's had several of those stickers on them over the yrs. but there was no actual "championship edition" that i'm aware of. as for ur hesitation issue, check the accelerator pump to see if it's squirting gas like it should.

bahlorm

There is a good amount of gas squirting out from what I have seen. Weather or not if its a weak or strong stream, I am not completely positive. I do have a carb rebuild kit on the way and it will arrive Wednesday though and I will rebuild the carburetor anyway. I took the top of the carburetor off to replace the floats last week and the gasket came off in pieces. So I figured I am sure it needs a rebuild no matter what. And as for that gasket, I just used some gasket sealant to replace it until the rebuild kit comes in. So do you guys think it is worth removing that sticker to tint all the windows after the cars running good, or should I keep it on and just tint the front?

Kentetsu

The engine has to be off when testing the AP. Look down into the primary barrels while you work the linkage, and check for two good squirts of fuel when you move the throttle linkage. If not a good squirt, then you need to rebuild the AP (gaskets).





.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

if u want to remove the sticker, do so. i just wanted u to know that it wasn't just some sticker someone put on there and calling it special.

bahlorm

Ah Okay I will try that Kent and I am wondering if it would effect the resale value too much by removing that sticker lol. Since most or all of them has had one at some point then there really wouldn't be much of a reason to keep it on there unless it would be of value

patmac6075

iTrader: (26)

I have the exact same issue (AP)...just read a great article by Sterling in the archive where he stated "don't just replace the AP and gaskets, do a complete rebuild" chances are your AP is fine (but should still be replaced), but the check ***** are most likely the cause (gummed up). So a complete rebuild is in my future.

As far as the sticker....removing it will not affect resale one bit, although I've left mine intact.

justinfox

iTrader: (3)

I had a similar issue and it was b/c my fuel filter was clogged. Check the s9imple things first

bahlorm

All the filters are new, but it does sound like the rebuild will be what needs to be done. I actually took the car to my car dealer to find out whats wrong with it and he will also rebuild the carburetor for me. He seems to know about rotaries and he has yet to ever fail at fixing any problems with any cars I have ever had in the past. So I am hoping either Friday or Monday I will have this car back and in good shape. After that there will need to be some body work that will need to be done along with probably suspension upgrades to start it out in the autocross.

bahlorm

I got the car back and I was told it is the AP that is not working properly. But they couldn't rebuild the carburetor for me because the bolts that hold it on are stripped.

Kentetsu

Doesn't sound like much of a shop then. Idiots.

Okay, so which bolts are stripped? I can't really imagine that its the ones holding the carb to the intake manifold, so I'll bet they're talking about the phillips head screws that hold the air horn onto the body of the carb.

Let me know which it is, because there are solutions....

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

sorry to hear bout ur issues. shops will give stupid excuses when they don't want to do something.

bahlorm

Okay I will let you know Kent. I am not too sure what bolts he was talking about but it sounded like he said there were 2 on the manifold stripped. With the shift I am working at work it isn't too easy to work on this car with no garage. Whenever I wake up at 9 am it gives me maybe an hour to fiddle with it. Then by the time I get home it is too dark to see anything lol. But I will take a look in the morning to see if I can see these stripped bolts.




Okay I have no idea what bolts he was talking about. The nuts holding the carburetor on the manifold came off pretty easily. So easily 1 of them were missing already! I got the carburetor off the car within a few minutes and now I am debating weather or not to try and rebuild it myself, which I know nothing about these things. Or take it somewhere to get it rebuild. Being tight on money I am thinking of doing it myself but I don't want to take a chance in screwing something up. If I take it to this place around here apparently they will rebuild it tune it and clean it up. I had a link on a tutorial on how to rebuild these things before. Is it really as hard as it looks? Or is it fairly simple and just time consuming?

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

It's a little time consuming, but it's simple enough if you can carefully follow detailed instructions. About like building a complicated model kit, really. You need to keep track of a lot of small parts, and work methodically, but it's not rocket science.

Do yourself a favor, though; download the factory FSM and carb manual, and use them in addition to the (way too short, & usually badly photocopied) instruction sheet that comes with the rebuild kit.

& don't mess with your float settings unless you actually have a problem with them. Setting the float levels is the only part of the carb rebuild that does take some skill. But most times they do not need to change.

Let me guess; the nut that was missing was the drivers' rear, yes?

Oh, and do NOT try to remove the gaskets from the black plastic carb spacer; they are permanent, reuseable, and if you peel them off you'll wreck the part & have to find a replacement. You don't need any other carb base gasket.

Kentetsu

You might want to read the thread on stripping all of the unnecessary parts from the carb before you rebuild it. You can pull a lot of crap off and it makes it a lot easier to work on after that.

If you can follow instructions, then do the rebuild yourself. It will be a learning opportunity for you, save you a lot of money, and we will be here to help you out if you get stuck.

bahlorm

I will do that then Divin. I called the place I was told to go to and they wont do it anyway. So it looks like I will be doing it myself in the morning. I hope the carb manual is a little more detailed than the thread I saw about it from Stearling. It was a good layout but it isn't something I would be able to follow through with since I don't know the names of all these parts inside the carburetor. So I need some detailed instructions or maybe pictures of what they are talking about at least. And the nut that was missing was actually on the passenger side towards the front of the car lol.
Also I have stripped off many things already from the carburetor. I didn't go as far as removing the things that require a plate or jb weld. I actually mainly just took out the rat's nest lol. I didn't want to go too far and mess something up that I can't fix too easily.

patmac6075

iTrader: (26)

Here's a tip; when I rebuilt my Dell'Orto I bought one of those small parts organizers/dividers from Home Depot....you know, looks like a small plastic brief case with a bunch of dividers...As I took each part off I labeled and cleaned them and put them into separate compartments....made it easy to put it all back together.
The Dell was so simple, I couldn't believe it....just trying to get the *****/time to tackle the Nikki now.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Carb manual has exploded-view diagrams with legends for all parts. They instructions that come with the rebuild kit will, too, but sometimes they are hard to read. The FSM has step-by-step pix, too.

Pat's divider box is an excellent idea. I've got a bunch of old pill bottles that I use, but same basic idea.

Pay particular attention to where the check ***** and weights for the accel pump come out of, and work over a clean, well-lit surface that will catch anything that might fall out/off. Some of the parts are quite small, and will bounce.

Also, if you have a digital camera that does closeups well, take tons of pics for yourself as you go, especially of linkages and such. Very useful if memory fades during reasembly.

bahlorm

So according to this Diagram and what I am picking up. One of these jets is for the AP and it is supposed to have a little ball inside of it? And all the jets are supposed to have gaskets around them? On both of the carburetors I had, 1 from the car and the other I got that was sitting in the car had no little ball inside any place any of the jets were. And also there was no gaskets on any of the jets.


I found out where 1 of them went to. I actually managed to put it all back together and get it on the car. Now the problem I had before is much more severe.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

All the fuel jets (as opposed to air bleeds) have gaskets, yes; either aluminum or copper crush washers, or in some kits, fiber washers. The diagrams show which ones get them if you look closely, but they are not called out as individual parts.

The accel pump circuit has two check *****, each with a weight that sits on top of it; one under the inlet plug, one under the accel jets.

If you didn't find both of them and both the weights, and did not get them back together properly (ball UNDER weight) your accel pump is not going to work right. The ***** function as one-way valves that let the pump actually pump gas.

I had one (inlet check ball) in my last rebuild that had varnished and rusted in place; took me quite a bit of doing to get it to actually come out. Eventually wiggled it loose with a magnetized ice pick.

If you have one missing, your accel pump will not work right until you find a repalcement for it.

bahlorm

Okay, I found 1 of them and I am going to be trying to locate the other. I was also informed that I may have some things for the accelerator pump on backwards lol. So the car is idling at around 800-900 rpm and sounds real nice but if I give it any gas it dies.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Be glad it's idling well; that's usually one of the harder things to accomplish on a first try!

bahlorm

Yeah lol, at least the car is starting and idling. I actually did have the accelerator pump in backwards. I put that in the right way and then it was idling crazy low. So low the rpm gauge would hardly pick it up which I have it on this link.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3eIt2Zxc9C4
I messed with the fuel adjuster a little bit and I got it idling at about 500 rpm so far and it is idling much smoother. I am now also able to get on the gas without any hesitation. I still need to work on tuning it but it is going much better! Thanks for all the help with this!

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Glad to help; keep with it, you'll be a Nikki guru eventually.