Help with Vacuum lines w/ Webber
#1
Hooray For Boobies!!!
Thread Starter
Help with Vacuum lines w/ Webber
Would I be able to hook up my OMP linkage to the Webber carb in anyway? This would be to keep the stock function of the OMP.
Or should I just lock it at half way like most people have told me (if so could someone explain how they did theirs). Some even say remove them and premix, although I would like the OMP on and functioning.
Could someone also help me out with the locations of the vacuum lines?
I have the purple lines running to the lower intake manifold, is that right?
Or should I just lock it at half way like most people have told me (if so could someone explain how they did theirs). Some even say remove them and premix, although I would like the OMP on and functioning.
Could someone also help me out with the locations of the vacuum lines?
I have the purple lines running to the lower intake manifold, is that right?
#2
Hooray For Boobies!!!
Thread Starter
I have the ones coming off the Oil Metering Nozzles running to the (?) and it goes into the oil filler neck tube. I then have another open end which I have no idea what to do with?
But I’m pretty sure I hooked the brake booster vacuum line up correctly.
Thanks
But I’m pretty sure I hooked the brake booster vacuum line up correctly.
Thanks
#4
The Shadetree Project
iTrader: (40)
well uhhh the only vaccume line that is worth hooking up is the break booster. the rest is garbage. just plugg it all off and run premix. My car has ran fine for nore than 20ksince my swap. And The engine was an unknown mileage totaled car engine that sat in a garage for 6 months before I put it in my car... Your stuff's all wrong but its hard to explain why unless you know exactly what I'm talking about. the oil injectors on the manifold and block only need vaccume if they're going to be used (its to equalize pressure on the injector). If you're hell bent on useing the MOP they'll require vaccume directly from the manifold somewhere. As far as the oil filter breather goes there are a few options. Leave it open and get a little sludge or search for PJ's write up on a PCV valve. I never really under stood how he hooked it up, but it seems like the best way to set it up and once I figure it out I'll go that route. As far as MOP goes my personal recomendation is to get the pump from rotaryaviation.com and hookup a can you can fill with 2 stroke then have it inject through the stock injectors, so youe engine doesn't haveto injest ickky engine oil anymore. I've got more to say, but my hand hurts now..
#5
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Originally Posted by Hyper4mance2k
well uhhh the only vaccume line that is worth hooking up is the break booster. the rest is garbage. just plugg it all off and run premix. My car has ran fine for nore than 20ksince my swap. And The engine was an unknown mileage totaled car engine that sat in a garage for 6 months before I put it in my car... Your stuff's all wrong but its hard to explain why unless you know exactly what I'm talking about. the oil injectors on the manifold and block only need vaccume if they're going to be used (its to equalize pressure on the injector). If you're hell bent on useing the MOP they'll require vaccume directly from the manifold somewhere. As far as the oil filter breather goes there are a few options. Leave it open and get a little sludge or search for PJ's write up on a PCV valve. I never really under stood how he hooked it up, but it seems like the best way to set it up and once I figure it out I'll go that route. As far as MOP goes my personal recomendation is to get the pump from rotaryaviation.com and hookup a can you can fill with 2 stroke then have it inject through the stock injectors, so youe engine doesn't haveto injest ickky engine oil anymore. I've got more to say, but my hand hurts now..
100% correct!
Trending Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jeff20B
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
73
09-16-18 07:16 PM
Nosferatu
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
7
09-05-15 02:13 PM