1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

help with strut tops!

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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 12:17 AM
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help with strut tops!

anyone have pictures of there strut tops installed correctly. i think mine are backwards causing the springs not to sit correctly because every time i turn the wheels all the way the springs would move causing it to pull left or right. it also makes a huge clunking noise.
thanks guys,
josh.
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 02:24 AM
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no one wants to help...
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 03:03 AM
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on the top of the strut mount, there should be an arrow (triangle, whatever...) somewhere, kinda sticking out of the plastic. If I am correct (this is how i just installed mine) the arrow should point at the bolt closest to the windshield and closest to the engine bay. If you cant see the arrow, try to clean a bit of scunge away, it should be there idf they are the factory ones
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 07:15 AM
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I recently installed new Racing Beat lowering springs and Tokico shocks. I looked for the markings indicated above and couldn't find them, so I just marked the bolts so I could put them back in he same hole. There is a rubber thing that the spring sits in and it has a depression that matches the top of the spring. This probably isn't any help with your problem, though...

- David
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 01:52 PM
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yea. but on my strut tops i cant find the triangles. they seem to be gone.
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 02:00 PM
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need to check you tied rod , maybe to much play, also your gear box if you have to much on your steering,
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 03:10 PM
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Sounds more like a spring perch issue to me.
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 04:17 PM
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Are you sure the bearings in the strut tops are still good? if they are worn it could cause the spring to turn with the strut assembly when it should stay stationary. Also are you sure you have all the appropriate washers and spacers in there?
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 05:56 PM
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Actually, the spring is supposed to turn with the strut. If the bearing is bad, or the shims/spacers/washers are not in there correctly, that can cause the springs to bind.
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 09:25 PM
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ahh...so what is the assembly off the wahsers/spacers?
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 10:31 PM
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Refer to the FSM or Haynes manual for a detailed drawing. Too many items to attempt explaining on the web.
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 10:37 PM
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ok ill do that...
hmm will have to get my car realigned if i redo everything?
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 10:39 PM
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Not if you reset the strut tops to the same position they are in currently.
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by FBsliderseven
ok ill do that...
hmm will have to get my car realigned if i redo everything?
If you are replacing struts only, nah, I agree with wolf here. If it is struts and springs, then I would get it aligned or align it myself just to be safe. 50$ alignment is much easier on the wallet than replacing preworn tires.

I lowered my protege 2 inches, and got it aligned. I also run 500$ tires on them, so you bet I aligned them
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 11:13 PM
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i only have one spacer in wrong...man i hate to do this all again but i guess i have to.
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Old Aug 17, 2007 | 02:37 AM
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Why dont you go leaf springs all around?
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Old Aug 17, 2007 | 02:45 AM
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^haha yeah. Good idea!
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Old Aug 17, 2007 | 06:08 AM
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The strut tops are off-centered.

When an alignment is done on an SA or FB ( as I have done for years), the four bolts that secure the top of the strut to the chassis are removed, and the strut itself is lowered, and rotated to adjust camber and caster.

The strut top should be closer to one of those four bolts than the other three- there is no need to find a marker, because the offset is clear once you know what you're looking at.

Good luck,

Brian Beachy
Owner of a silver 1980 SA w/ 130k mi. (since 8k original miles!)
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Old Aug 17, 2007 | 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Badfish
Why dont you go leaf springs all around?
what is that?
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Old Aug 17, 2007 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by bbeachy
The strut tops are off-centered.

When an alignment is done on an SA or FB ( as I have done for years), the four bolts that secure the top of the strut to the chassis are removed, and the strut itself is lowered, and rotated to adjust camber and caster.

The strut top should be closer to one of those four bolts than the other three- there is no need to find a marker, because the offset is clear once you know what you're looking at.

Good luck,

Brian Beachy
Owner of a silver 1980 SA w/ 130k mi. (since 8k original miles!)
i will try that today.
and what do you mean closer to one bolt?
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Old Aug 17, 2007 | 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by FBsliderseven
what is that?
i hope that was a joke haha. ive NEVER saw leafs on the front of a car.
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Old Aug 17, 2007 | 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by NCdrift
i hope that was a joke haha. ive NEVER saw leafs on the front of a car.
It prolly was a joke.
As for leafs in the front, look under early 50's and older cars/trucks. Very common to see leafs up front. Heck, some pickups didn't lose the front leafs till the early 60's. '68 dodge 1/2 ton pickups still had the leaf frontend......
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Old Aug 17, 2007 | 02:14 PM
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front suspension diagram

see if this helps. Open it with Windows picture and fax viewer and you can enlarge it as much as you want.
Attached Thumbnails help with strut tops!-0063.jpg  
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Old Aug 17, 2007 | 05:33 PM
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thanks man!
just took all of it apart. this time around im marking everything!
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Old Aug 18, 2007 | 02:39 AM
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it handles great !!! its good to know that my suspension isnt binding in the front anymore.
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