help on stripping the nikki and rats nest
help on stripping the nikki and rats nest
Hi all first off I did search I have actually spent 2 nights with the search button and keep finding links that are dead, pics that are no longer hosted or someone explaining the problem then getting told not to try it or better off buying a modded (sterling) nikki
I'm looking to remove all the rats nest/air pump/cats etc looking for a step by step or some pics to go along with it I do have ac and would like to keep it
also my car didnt run when purchased it had set for 1.5yrs after the fuel pump went bad... sure enough put new pump on car and it starts will run for couple seconds then shuts off, if you take fuel line off the inlet and put it over the carb (with vise grips squezzing it shut some) it will start idle and run so I'm guessing the carb needs rebuilt. No major problem there I have rebuilt a ton of carbs but I would also like to strip it down while rebuilding it, i.e mechanical secondaries no rats nest of vacuum lines etc
I pretty much understand that I need a vacuum line from carb to dizzy for the advance timing one to the oil neck (with pcv valve) and also one for ac? anyone get a pic of the control valve for the ac idle? or can I just bump idle up a touch to help when ac is on
plan is header,modded nikki,dual exhuast and thats it I dont care if car makes 100hp or 500hp I just want to simplify the underhood area and will also take and trim up the wiring thats no longer needed but again pics are VERY helpful and i cant seem to find more than one of the job already done which looks nice but doesnt help get it done
I'm looking to remove all the rats nest/air pump/cats etc looking for a step by step or some pics to go along with it I do have ac and would like to keep it
also my car didnt run when purchased it had set for 1.5yrs after the fuel pump went bad... sure enough put new pump on car and it starts will run for couple seconds then shuts off, if you take fuel line off the inlet and put it over the carb (with vise grips squezzing it shut some) it will start idle and run so I'm guessing the carb needs rebuilt. No major problem there I have rebuilt a ton of carbs but I would also like to strip it down while rebuilding it, i.e mechanical secondaries no rats nest of vacuum lines etc
I pretty much understand that I need a vacuum line from carb to dizzy for the advance timing one to the oil neck (with pcv valve) and also one for ac? anyone get a pic of the control valve for the ac idle? or can I just bump idle up a touch to help when ac is on
plan is header,modded nikki,dual exhuast and thats it I dont care if car makes 100hp or 500hp I just want to simplify the underhood area and will also take and trim up the wiring thats no longer needed but again pics are VERY helpful and i cant seem to find more than one of the job already done which looks nice but doesnt help get it done
Here is a good writeup explaining how to do the rats nest removal. If you have questions let me know. There are a couple of places in the writeup that aren't very descriptive, and get a little confusing. I've done this multiple times with much success, so let me know if you need help.
http://maz_tutorials.ten15.net/Tutorial_1.pdf
Jamie
http://maz_tutorials.ten15.net/Tutorial_1.pdf
Jamie
yep you're pretty much on the money, the a/c setup consists of a solenoid, with one hose going to manifold vacuum and the other going to the little throttle opener, has a black cover and is near the throttle cable, the solenoid (activated by A/C turn on) allows vacuum to pull up a diaphragm inside the throttle opener, which has an arm that pulls on the throttle lever to raise the idle
This thread has info about hooking up the throttle opener without the rats nest.
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/checking-solenoid-851102/
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/checking-solenoid-851102/
Taco,
I made some diagrams for stripping down the Nikki a year or two ago. If you do a search for Glazedham42 you'll probably find the diagrams. They are not 100% accurate and I am going to redo them in a day or so to make sure they are correct. I'll post a link to them here as soon as I finish them.
Jamie
I made some diagrams for stripping down the Nikki a year or two ago. If you do a search for Glazedham42 you'll probably find the diagrams. They are not 100% accurate and I am going to redo them in a day or so to make sure they are correct. I'll post a link to them here as soon as I finish them.
Jamie
sweet ty I just didnt want to rebuild carb and stick it back on stock when I plan on modding it anyhow,
also what PSI fuel pressure would you guys consider the max? I put on a universal 4-7psi pump but now thinking I should have gone with the 2.5-4.5 one they had the stock pump was $140 or so and the univerals are $45
also what PSI fuel pressure would you guys consider the max? I put on a universal 4-7psi pump but now thinking I should have gone with the 2.5-4.5 one they had the stock pump was $140 or so and the univerals are $45
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yeah I thought about it but when putting the line directly over carb it would obviously be too much fuel if I had just left it open ended so i used plier to restrict it a bit, when it was hooked to the carb in the normal way it was like the fuel bowls would go empty and car shut off. Few seconds later they would fill back up allowing car to fire again then just run out of fuel again... its not acting like its flooding itself with fuel more like it just keeps running itself out ... I'm thinking needles are stuck from sitting
Get a fuel pressure regulator. You can get one of the cheap Holley regulators from Summit Racing to get your fuel pressure under control. Like mentioned above, the Nikki only needs about 2.5 - 3.0 psi of fuel pressure.
Jamie
Jamie
yeah I thought about it but when putting the line directly over carb it would obviously be too much fuel if I had just left it open ended so i used plier to restrict it a bit, when it was hooked to the carb in the normal way it was like the fuel bowls would go empty and car shut off. Few seconds later they would fill back up allowing car to fire again then just run out of fuel again... its not acting like its flooding itself with fuel more like it just keeps running itself out ... I'm thinking needles are stuck from sitting
my car was doing this when I first got it, I simply didn't have enough gas in the tank, it would do the same thing fill the fuel bowls but run out in a sec of running, then fill the bowls and run out again. would do it over and over. my car had a bit of fuel in it but was parked on a hill and the pickup was not getting it.
my car was doing this when I first got it, I simply didn't have enough gas in the tank, it would do the same thing fill the fuel bowls but run out in a sec of running, then fill the bowls and run out again. would do it over and over. my car had a bit of fuel in it but was parked on a hill and the pickup was not getting it.
I will be getting a regulator here soon hope to get car running this weekend
Taco,
I have the old pictures from that thread on my computer but there are a couple of mistakes on them. It will be much less confusing if I wait and post the corrected diagrams tonight or tomorrow morning. They will be mistake free. They are all color coded and will make your life much easier. Stripping the Nikki took me about a week's worth of homework, and research. These diagrams will eliminate all that for you. Give me another day and they'll be ready for the masses.
Jamie
I have the old pictures from that thread on my computer but there are a couple of mistakes on them. It will be much less confusing if I wait and post the corrected diagrams tonight or tomorrow morning. They will be mistake free. They are all color coded and will make your life much easier. Stripping the Nikki took me about a week's worth of homework, and research. These diagrams will eliminate all that for you. Give me another day and they'll be ready for the masses.
Jamie
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