1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

HELP!!! slight issues..

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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 01:59 AM
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HELP!!! slight issues..

well lets start off with i have an oil leak in my FMOC... dump oilin it not a problem well all of a sudden my oil spot has become a foamy brown.. look at the oil and its a little on the thin side maybe a lil smelling of fuel.... Ala piston engine dropping a cylinder... but no magic coolant loss and its still neon green... it doesnt seem to have lost and power of sorts.... What is my issue??? worst part is its my DD... please help me diagnose the problem
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 08:01 AM
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your first step should be fixing the fmoc. have the fmoc tig welded or replace it with a used one. you can post a want to buy ad in the appropriate section. the gas smelling oil can be caused by a prior flood, low compression or an enginne thats running pig rich. are you actually located in cleveland or are you outside of the city?
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 12:21 PM
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i am actually in cleveland.... south east side... depending on my work schedule... ill see if i can fix it this weekend... i tired to jb weld it while it was in the car but, i apparently didnt get it well enough... are those the only causes of gas smelling thin oil?
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by TheDriver216
well lets start off with i have an oil leak in my FMOC... dump oilin it not a problem well all of a sudden my oil spot has become a foamy brown.. look at the oil and its a little on the thin side maybe a lil smelling of fuel.... Ala piston engine dropping a cylinder... but no magic coolant loss and its still neon green... it doesnt seem to have lost and power of sorts.... What is my issue??? worst part is its my DD... please help me diagnose the problem

First thing you need to check on your oil leak is where is it coming from. I recommend that you get some simple green or engine degreaser and scrub the area clean. Then start and run the engine and see if you can pinpoint the leak. May be the hose,oil cooler,loose fitting, or perhaps the sealing washers are bad.

If the oil smells like fuel then I recommend changing the oil first. I don't know how long you have owned the vehicle or the last time the oil was changed.
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by rx7doctor
First thing you need to check on your oil leak is where is it coming from. I recommend that you get some simple green or engine degreaser and scrub the area clean. Then start and run the engine and see if you can pinpoint the leak. May be the hose,oil cooler,loose fitting, or perhaps the sealing washers are bad.

If the oil smells like fuel then I recommend changing the oil first. I don't know how long you have owned the vehicle or the last time the oil was changed.
the oil leak is coming from the bung.. i know this cuz i thought maybe it was a little loose so i tightened it and wham made it twice as bad as it was.. well its been leaking at a decent rate so the oil has pretty much changed itself by now lol (not really funny but hey ) everything will get pulled apart this weekend hopefully if i dont work... i work second shift so its hard sometimes to work on the car.. and its my dd so pulling it apart and not getting it back togather for work is not an option.. thanx for the input... at least i didnt hear its terminal from anyone..
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 12:08 AM
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I would get some OEM sealing washers from the Mazda dealer and replace yours. Remember not to over tighten because that is usually the cause of the issue in the 1st place. :-)
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 12:18 AM
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Usually??? How about ALWAYS, Doc?:P I did that with my first FMOC, cracked very nicely on both bungs. Oil everywhere. Sam gave me his FMOC(I think I paid him for it......) and we were a little bit gentler the second time around. It's going to be costly to weld the bung, so try finding a new one first. Get fresh crush washers. We had to buy some and then grind out the inside a little bit, because no one had the exact size we needed. Tighten until it just starts to give some resistance. It takes very little to crack these things.
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 02:52 AM
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Your're bung is cracked and you made it worse. Now doesn't that remind you of prison soap. You'll need to line up a competent tig welder before you pull the fmoc to be welded. I take an 1/8" carbide burr and cut a flute along the crack, then clean the flute and fmoc, inside and out with brake clean, before welding.
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