xlversatilelx

i need help my car is stuck at school
its an 81 12a
i bled my clutch and yet no results clutch willnot disengage
so i figuered it was my master or slave
so i was wondering if anyone can help me on the steps on the proper way to remove and reinstall a new master and slave cylinders
thanks all your help is well appreciated

darkfrost

iTrader: (1)

Its pretty simple, two nuts holding the master to the firewall. One each above and below where the clutch boot thing is on the pedal, hard to get up there, but once you do its straight forward. Should be a 10 or 12mm.

Then, theres the line from the master, 8mm open wrench will do.

For the slave, it helps if the rats nest is out of the way, but you will need a 10mm wrench/socket one of each...I use a socket with an extension on one, and a wrench on the other, but thats what I find is easy. It sits on top of the tranny half visible. Once the slave is out, you need to pull it out of where it sits carefully without damaging the flex line. And, you've got to take off that nut that hold the line into the slave. 12mm? I think?

Then, same thing to install them. Doesnt matter particularly what order you install them in, as long as they're snug, and you make sure that the plunger on the slave lines up nicely with the shift fork in the tranny. Adjust the pedal rod for what suits best for you.

And, it usually helps to replace the flex line...they tend to leak over time, an SS one would be more than ideal.

SparkienSuggah

bah, start it in gear and dry shift it... thats how I got mine home when I bought it. Works well in a supra too when the same problem crops up. Doing work in a school parking lot is the *****.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Do not use an open end wrench on the clutch lines, (or brake lines for that matter). You will just end up stripping the nuts on the hard line. You will need a 10 mm and a 17 mm flare wrench to break the connection between the hard and soft line.. The hard lines are 10 mm, on both ends, the slave bolts are 12mm, and the bleeder nipple is 8mm.

Spray a little PB Blaster on the hard to soft line connection first. While that is soaking in, undo the rest of the parts.

I use 2 long extensions to get to the slave bolts, some guys use a wobbly. Do not over tighten the slave bolts into the tranny. Re-tapping the aluminum bellhousing is not fun. Don't ask how I know.

xlversatilelx

kool thanks that really helps a lot i really appreciate it any more advice or feed back would be helpful i need to work on it while im at school hahaha thanks

1stgen4life

iTrader: (1)

If you are having trouble removing the lines, you can just remove both the master and slave cylinders and leave the lines attached. They can be rebuilt while they are still connected. If you are replacing rather than rebuilding obvioulsy this will not work, but just something to keep in mind. My clutch lines were so stuck on that I went this route and it worked fine. Saved me from stripping the connections. This seems to be a relatively common problem.
Good luck and I hope you find the problem.

1stgen4life

iTrader: (1)

I have always had a question about this. I understand how you can dry shift, but how do you start the car when it is in gear. And even if it is neutral and you get it started, how do you get it into first without it stalling. Sorry, I just never have understood this. Didn't mean to threadjack.

Kentetsu

lol, you just put it into 1st gear and start it up (make sure nothing is in front of you first). Very hard on the starter, and with a rotary I'm not even sure you would be able to get it started at all. My Audi has lots of torque though, and starts easily while in 1st gear. My wife took it to a quick change oil place, and the moron leaned in through the window and turned the key while it was in gear. It started right up and drove right through the garage door, then broad sided HIS car which was parked out back. Always good for a laugh...

jayroc

If it's been sitting you might want to let it warm up in neutral, then restart it in gear. Just give it some gas while you start it and you're off..
A tip for installing all new stuff. If you install the master cyl. I found it really difficult to get the fluid going into the tube to bleed.. I stuffed a rag into the hole and had someone pump until fluid came out. You might wanna do the same thing at the slave side once you connect the line. If that doesn't work, you might need back off the metal tube that connects to the master cyl. Do it while it's under pressure then tighten it back. That will help also.
I recently replaced my master cyl. and used one of those stainless lines from mazdatrix. The slave is semi-new as well. (replaced in school parking lot too! heh) Clutch works a hell of a lot better now.

BlastinSideways12A

I currently have the same exact issue, my car is in my apartment parking lot at school and the clutch hydralics need tlc. I have a braided line sitting at home and will be ordering rebuild kits soon. I'm going to be removing everything from the firewall forward anyway to wash and wax my engine bay, sandblast and repaint some brackets, bedline my fenderwells, rewire everything, and swap in a complete front suspension and subframe that I sandblasted, repainted, and replaced the balljoints, bushings, and struts.

xlversatilelx

Aighte thanks for all the input guysss