blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

alright i've got a f'n headache now trying to mess with my car i have searched the no start threads but the problems seemed different. Here's what happened, yesterday morning i got out to crank my car, battery was dead, but i figured "this battery is old as hell" so used the jumper cables and fired right up, drove for about 5 minutes and parked went to start again and it wouldn't crank, checked for spark, plugs, rotor/cap, wires, made sure i was getting enough gas and i am.

here's what the engine is doing, it'll catch for like a second or two (so i'm thinking possibly ignitors, i do have 2gDFIS so i guess i could try switching to another 2gen coil and check that) but if i pump the gas pedal quite a bit (about 8 times) wait a bit then crank it'll fire up, but the revs will just kick up and just run to redline w/out me pressing the gas pedal, checked my linkages and they're good, no vacuum leaks, checked for compression and i believe its right (did the old taking plugs out and listen for the whoosh and it was basically "whoosh whoosh whoosh whoosh") also checked the "teeter totter" and it's open

so here are my possible problems that i can think off please let me know what you guys think or if you have gone through the same problem (btw 85 GSL, 12a, rats nest removed, mech secondaries, 2gdfis)

ignitors
battery (i'm pretty sure of this one since it's really old lol)
alternator (i didn't have time to go get it tested, i think its good, but i'm not sure, oh yeah my battery won't really keep charge so that's why i'm counting this as a possibility)
.....hmmm can't think of anything else even the starter is acting just fine

also i have a question about a 1st gen eclipse alternator? has anyone done this, the alt. it's by mitsubichi also it's a 65A alt, i did not check the mounting but it seems very similar the differences are that the eclipse alt is somewhat smaller in size and the pulley is different, but i think i can make it work,

reason i ask is cuz me and my brother just got done swapping his engines (1.8 to a 2.0) and now he's got a few spare parts and it'd be awesome if i could just rewire his alternator and use it on my car if i do need another one.

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Rotaries need a strong healthy battery - pop in one you know is OK from another car and see if that does it.
Also old/original battery cables can cause all sorts of electric gremlins - ever replace yours?? They can look fine and be all corroded inside-
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

and also after you get that new battery in and check the cables, make sure you thoroughly check the cables. make sure your grounds are clean and secure

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

thanks guys, this is gonna be my next step in checking all that stuff...anything else i may be missing?

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

i believe i can rule out the battery, i went out today, cleaned all my contacts and inspected the wires and they look ok, all grounds were they should be, charged up the battery put it in the car and the battery was fine for quite a few cranks but still the car wont start, i'm really leaning towards the ignitors right now..oh an update, now even after pumping the gas a lot the car won't really "catch" it'll just sputter a bit like its gonna catch and backfire sometimes haha...idk what else it could be, it's really pissing me off lol.

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

well i have officially no spark, i even flip flopped the ignitors just incase one of them was the faulty one, but it didn't make a difference, so am i right to blame the ignitors now after all this? ..if so, where can i find some, i looked on ebay but i only found one and the buy it now price was of like 100 bucks?!?!

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

check for power at the ignition system 1st before buying stuff. Hook (-) to ground and then use the (+) probe and measure voltage at coil (+) and coil (-) [leading and trailing]. Then use the (+) probe to measure voltage at each terminal on both ignitors.

This will be with the key turned to 'ON'. You should have battery voltage at each point (~12v or so). If not, then wiring or a blown fuse is your prob.

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

i was gonna test for power, but i couldn't find my voltmeter so i didn't..i did check all the fuses and all of them are good, and i sprayed some contact cleaner on the fusible link box, and also on all the connections that have to do with the ignition. I will check for power as soon as i find my voltmeter tho, thanks, anything else i could check for?

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

i went out today with a voltmeter to double check on myself and i was getting power everywhere, and as i suspected it was the ignitors, a friend of mine let me borrow a couple just to check and well sure enough put those on there and i had spark once again but still no crank, took the carb apart just to find a bunch of dirt in the bowls, so i cleaned the carb components put it back together and it started!

now i have other problems, well
first of all i need to find a couple of ignitors for me or my friend w/e.

2nd) it won't hold idle for **** hopefully it's due to a vacuum leak since i took off the whole manifold in order to take off the carb (don't ask me, it's been a rough few days and i'm going on a couple of all nighters lol) and didn't have any sealer to put back on "just in case" or maybe it's just the fuel filter (car almost feels like it's starving, i was in a bit of a hurry to get my car from where it was at since my uncle was starting to raise hell about it taking up room in his shop)

and the last one (3rd) eventho it's kinda cool, i know it shouldn't do it, but my car sounds like a bridgey i guess from where my ignitors where fucked it threw off my timing or some **** so hopefully that's just a matter of timing....

if anyone's got a couple of the 109 ignitors they'd like to donate i'd be more than glad to take them :P, or is there a way to wire these ignitors to make them work again, kinda like "hot wiring" them?

Joker1337

I dunno of a way to hotwire them, but GlazedHam shoved GM ignitors in if you're having problems getting J109's.

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/dizzy-ignition-guys-can-i-splice-these-wires-780833/

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Considering what even used J109's sell for, that's quite a donation.

Rogue_Wulff

If the ignitors are bad, gut them out and go with the GM parts. Only $15-25 at nearly any parts store, and almost always in stock.
I have a GSL-SE with the DLIDFIS system using 3 GM modules and blaster coils. Aside from figuring out where it was wired wrong, it works great. The PO had wired the pickups in the dizzy backwards, which threw the timing off by ~90*. That will sure make one run odd, and poorly.

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

thanks guys , i remember reading bits and pieces of this set-up, so time to do some homework , is this possible to do with the 2nd gen coil?, i guess i'm gonna have to go look at the transistor trick also

Rogue_Wulff

I hear it can be used with the 2nd gen coil. Using that style coil, you would only need 1 GM module for the leading, rather than 2. I also heard this can used with a GM DIS coil, which also has 2 plug wires firing at the same time. I haven't researched into that, though.

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

hell yeah, i thought i could get away with only 1 if i was gonna use my 2g Coil, i still need to do homework behind it tho

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

well, wiring is pretty straight forward, the only questions i have about it are,

1) i should know this but i don't so, which ignitor is trailing and which is leading?

2) do i still keep the wire from the trailing coil into the leading slot on dizzy, and then t1-l1 and t2-l2 like i have them right now because of my 2nd gen coil?

Rogue_Wulff

Leading ignitor *should* be the one facing the front of the car, while trailing is towards the right side of the car.
Plug wires should remain as you have them now, all you'll be doing is switching the type of ignitor signaling the coil(s).

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

alright so for this setting i wanna use, i would be using the trailing coil so i'm only upgrading the trailing ignitor which would be the one closest to the alternator (stock mounting) right? and i can just leave the leading ignitor off the system....

wait no, i'm gonna have to upgrade the leading also, so that i can power the 2nd gen coil. so either way i'm gonna have to just upgrade both of the ignitors? ugh i just confused myself...time for more reading.