Help Me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: asheville nc
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Help Me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
OK I POST THIS ONCE BUT NOBODY RELPIED.. MY CAR WON'T START, I REPLACED THE STARTER AND THAT'S NOT IT AND CLEAN THE WIRES THAT ATTACH TO THE STARTER.. I GET POWER FROM THE BATTERY TO THE STARTER. BUT NO POWER FROM THE INGINTION WHEN I CRANK IT ALL IT DOES IS MAKE A CLICK NOISE FROM THE UNDER THE HOOD.. I THINK IT'S THE MAIN RELAY?? I THINK BUT NOT SURE IF THAT'S WHAT IT'S CALLED.. WHAT SHOULD I DO TO GET THIS CAR BACK ON THE ROAD?????????????????????????????????????????????? ????????????????????????????????????????????????
#6
Gone Race'n
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Rockford, IL
Posts: 1,544
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Okay I heard you, damn!!!!!!!!!!!
So you have power to the starter,
1) Do you have power at the spark plug?
2) Do you have fuel flow to the engine?
3) Do all of your warning lights come on when the key is turned to the "on" or "run" possition?
When dealing with a "not starting" problem start at the farthest place back possible. You've already esstablished that the engine cranks, not the battery, not the starter. That is as far back to the beging as you can get. Next start with the fuse block and the ingnition swithch itself. Make sure all of the fuses are in good condition and check to see if there is any corrosion on the back side of the box. The fuse block is held up with two philips head screws. Next make sure the ingnition switch is getting electricity to all of the places it is supposed to, at the correct times. IE acc. only when in the acc. possition. Use this thought proccess until you reach the engine through every wire coming out of the ignition switch.
Using this method will take through every system on the car needed to run the engine. So at every system make sure it works. If every system works then I would resort to a LITTLE atf treatment. This will bump the compression a little and make starting it a little easier. If you let the atf sit it may free up some stuck seals and make life happy. Be warned there will be smoke if you try this trick.
Good luck
Ryan
So you have power to the starter,
1) Do you have power at the spark plug?
2) Do you have fuel flow to the engine?
3) Do all of your warning lights come on when the key is turned to the "on" or "run" possition?
When dealing with a "not starting" problem start at the farthest place back possible. You've already esstablished that the engine cranks, not the battery, not the starter. That is as far back to the beging as you can get. Next start with the fuse block and the ingnition swithch itself. Make sure all of the fuses are in good condition and check to see if there is any corrosion on the back side of the box. The fuse block is held up with two philips head screws. Next make sure the ingnition switch is getting electricity to all of the places it is supposed to, at the correct times. IE acc. only when in the acc. possition. Use this thought proccess until you reach the engine through every wire coming out of the ignition switch.
Using this method will take through every system on the car needed to run the engine. So at every system make sure it works. If every system works then I would resort to a LITTLE atf treatment. This will bump the compression a little and make starting it a little easier. If you let the atf sit it may free up some stuck seals and make life happy. Be warned there will be smoke if you try this trick.
Good luck
Ryan
#7
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: asheville nc
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i can only start it from under the hood not from the driver seat... i can start it by jumping the terminals on the starter.. it's the ingintion that's ******* up not the engine.. but i want to check and make sure that the ingintion is what needs to be replaced instead of somthing cheap like main relay or a fuseable link or somthing.
Trending Topics
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Montreal, Quebec, Canada
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by CORY CLAY
BUT NO POWER FROM THE INGINTION WHEN I CRANK IT ALL IT DOES IS MAKE A CLICK NOISE FROM THE UNDER THE HOOD
BUT NO POWER FROM THE INGINTION WHEN I CRANK IT ALL IT DOES IS MAKE A CLICK NOISE FROM THE UNDER THE HOOD
The ignition switch gets it's 12v from the Main fusible link. The middle link of the three. It also supplies the relay under the hood, so if that's what you are hearing the link must be good. But it may have a weak connection allowing enough current to flow for the relay but not the larger amount for the solenoid, so check it anyway and clean it's connections.
The only thing between the ignition switch and the starter (except for the connections at the switch itself) is a connector, located under the brake master cylinder. A single contact connector with a Black/Yellow wire on both sides. If it is not making good contact, 12v won't get to the starter.
If the link or the connector does not solve it, you will have to check at the ignition switch with a voltmeter.
-John.
#10
Full Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: WV
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I GET POWER FROM THE BATTERY TO THE STARTER. BUT NO POWER FROM THE INGINTION WHEN I CRANK IT ALL IT DOES IS MAKE A CLICK NOISE FROM THE UNDER THE HOOD.. I THINK IT'S THE MAIN RELAY??
#12
post whore queen
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: LouEEsville
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok .......if its just clicking under your hood then have you checked the solenoid? that was the first thing i had to replace on my car...when i turned the key it just clicked but i could jump it from inside the hood....the solenoid is located under your car off the starter...very easy to replace..i think mine was 40bucks at autozone
#13
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
After my clutch install last month, I developed a similar problem. All clicks, but no turn. Eventually, I discovered I had fked up my ground. Before you buy a new solenoid, do this....
Take a set of jumper cables. Attach one end to the negative post on the battery. Don't worry with the positive. Take the other side and attach it to a point on the chassis. I used the front crossmember. If your car now magically starts, you too have messed up your ground. It could be something you can repair, but I just replaced my entire ground cable. If that doesn't do anything, and you are sure your battery is good (have you tried jumping it to see if it does anything different?), then the solenoid is your best bet.
Good luck,
James
Take a set of jumper cables. Attach one end to the negative post on the battery. Don't worry with the positive. Take the other side and attach it to a point on the chassis. I used the front crossmember. If your car now magically starts, you too have messed up your ground. It could be something you can repair, but I just replaced my entire ground cable. If that doesn't do anything, and you are sure your battery is good (have you tried jumping it to see if it does anything different?), then the solenoid is your best bet.
Good luck,
James
#14
Full Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Jackson, MI
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Kind of new to the whole electical game, but have you checked your wiring for nicks and stuff? I had some headlights that were dim...turned out that my wiring had a little cut in it and the metal oxidized...making a big resistor. Good luck!
#16
Administrator
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: So. Arlington, TX!!!
Posts: 12,974
Likes: 0
Received 59 Likes
on
36 Posts
You, of course, have taken the "new" starter back to where you bought it to be tested, right?! You're ***-uming it's good because it's new but that's not always the case as I mentioned in your other thread about this problem. At the very least, have the store test it to make sure you bought a good unit so you know for sure that's not the problem. Then, it's a matter of using a test light to poke your wires under the steering column to find out if turning the key is popping 12V when it should to the solenoid...
#18
Rotary Freak
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Peoria, IL
Posts: 1,779
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Turn on the headlights, have someone watch while you turn the ignition key on. Do the lights dim? If not, take the starter in and have it tested.
If they do dim, my suggestion is to buy four feet of 2 ga. wire and four feet of 4 ga. wire, four connectors (ask the parts guy) and two new battery connections (good time to upgrade to the tool less type). Make a new set of battery cables and see what happens.
The worst? You now have new battery cables which you needed anyway, but your car still won't start.
The best? It fixes your problem.
of course that's just my opinion, I could be wrong,
hanman
If they do dim, my suggestion is to buy four feet of 2 ga. wire and four feet of 4 ga. wire, four connectors (ask the parts guy) and two new battery connections (good time to upgrade to the tool less type). Make a new set of battery cables and see what happens.
The worst? You now have new battery cables which you needed anyway, but your car still won't start.
The best? It fixes your problem.
of course that's just my opinion, I could be wrong,
hanman
Last edited by hanman; 04-05-02 at 11:33 AM.
#21
Driven a turbo FB lately?
iTrader: (1)
Originally posted by CORY CLAY
i had the starter tested when i bought it....
i had the starter tested when i bought it....
If this is true you got a bad ignition switch or wiring to the starter... What I would do in this case, is see if you are getting 12V from the key switch using a DVM (digital voltmeter) .. I beleive from memory its black/yellow coming from the switch, and then under the steering column it joins to a black/white. Not totally sure on the colors, might wanna consult the Haynes manual. But check to see if you are getting 12V at the switch and then at the connector I mentioned. If not you got 1) dirty contacts or 2) a bad switch. If you are getting voltage from the key, move on to the 6 pin harness in the drivers upper front of the engine bay (its kinda under the brake proportioning valve. Check for power there... Keep eliminating your possibilities
#22
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I agree with Rx-7girl, sounds like the solenoid went out on you. But I do have to disagree with the fact of just replacing the solenoid, take for example that your car is an 85 with well over 100k milez on her, there were alot of morningz of starting there. Yes, replacing the solenoid will fix your problem, but for how long? How long will the start last now? One part doesnt brake without something else following it? I think I payed $80 for a new rebuild starter from AutoZone with a warranty on it. Most starters you buy are rebuilds anyways, thatz why they want the core. A starter doesnt have to be top end (just turns the motor over). So 80 dallors later and like 4 boltz she was starting like a charm and quite. Seemz everyone wants to jump to the point like a machanic does, this is one reason i dont let them under my hood. They just want to start replacing parts before examining the problem. You answered your own question when u said that you can only start it by jumping the solenoid. There is your brake in the current flow to start the car. Just my bit of advise. Good luck.
Mike
Mike
#23
Full Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Coral Springs
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
after reviewing the issue.. can i ask a question..
-ave you check the ground wire comming from the starter thats grounded to the engine.. on the engine side. i had the exact issue with my 1st 12a.. with the engine mount oil cooler.. and it was leaking oil.
- would turn the key and hear a click. thats it. i tried replacing the starter ..same issue. a friend "ozzie" told me to check where the starter is grounded to the engine. it was oil soaked.
-ave you check the ground wire comming from the starter thats grounded to the engine.. on the engine side. i had the exact issue with my 1st 12a.. with the engine mount oil cooler.. and it was leaking oil.
- would turn the key and hear a click. thats it. i tried replacing the starter ..same issue. a friend "ozzie" told me to check where the starter is grounded to the engine. it was oil soaked.