1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

HELP: Installed a fuel pump and started car but....

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Old 03-26-08, 05:18 PM
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cjf
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HELP: Installed a fuel pump and started car but....

after I installed a used fuel pump and new fuel filer, I stared the car and it started fine but the car will not idle under 4000 rpms!! I tried to adjust a couple screws it did not work. I oiled a lot of the mechanisms and springs but that did not work either. What do I do now????

I really want to get this car to run right ...any help would be appreciated..

chris
Old 03-26-08, 06:40 PM
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This is a GSL-SE, correct? Check the small tube from the main air duct to the RE-EGI box. Check the BAC. It is on the driver's side of the RE-EGI box. Mine got stuck open before and that will cause a high idle (air flows around the throttle plates, just like holding the throttle open a bit). What part of NC are you in? Wasn't it Winston-Salem or something? If so, I'll be passing through on Sunday and can stop by and give you a hand if you would like.
Old 03-26-08, 08:01 PM
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if the addict didn't know u from previous posts I doubt even he could offer much help with such a broad description of the whos and whats of ur problema'...
Old 03-26-08, 08:40 PM
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gsl-se addict: that would be awesome.. but I will try the bac valve you mentioned.. I will take it off tomorrow and see if I can clean it or something...and yeah ..I am in winston-salem.. I will let you know if the bac deal works..if not ...that would be awesome if you are in winston-salem area.. I 'll let you know.. thanks...

ps: I have no idea what 85IIdevil just said. *(&(&*^????(*^(??*^(*^(*&!!!!!!
Old 03-26-08, 08:44 PM
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Devil was saying that you need to include more info in your post. Otherwise, we can't figure out the prob. I shold be coming through Sat or Sun. Going down to Morganton to help another 7 owner. I'd be happy to swing by..it's on the way.
Old 03-29-08, 09:18 AM
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ok...I tried the bac...did not help... anyone have any ideas?? The simple problem is I can not get the car to idle under 4000 rpms... I just replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter.... the car did sit for maybe a year . I changed all fluids. What the heck would cause it to idle so high?? The pedal is not stuck. ..

Please let me know what you think I can do. "GSL-SE addict" will stop over on Sunday ( I hope) to take a look. But I want to save him a trip if I can... Please put your thoughts out there and I will try it..thanks......cjf
Old 03-30-08, 11:21 AM
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anyone......cjf
Old 03-30-08, 11:43 AM
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What is your fuel pressure?
Old 03-30-08, 11:59 AM
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Hey Chris. If Kent say's he want's to swing by and help, let him. BTW, when he stops by, ask him how the ride was in the 12A turbo . So, what's the plan with the "new" SE? You plan on selling this one when you get it finished? Anyway, I hope you guys figure it out. Good luck.
Old 03-31-08, 08:17 AM
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Unfortunately, i was not able to stop by. Didn't leave Morganton until later than expected. I'll see what I can think of and will stop by on my next trip to the area if it doesn't get sorted out by then.

Sam: That 12A Turbo was a blast! That thing just rips. Thanks again for the ride. . Now you have to update your exhaust size in your sig. Now 3" with a quick spool and lots of noise.
Old 04-11-08, 08:13 PM
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well, I gave up and had my car towed to a shop...They are thinking it is fuel pump regulator and/or the fuel pump.... 159.99 for a fuel pump regulator?? That is what they said... sounds like a rip off....they are going to install and ....we will see.. How disappointing to have had to bring to shop but I tried...


thanks

cjf
Old 04-11-08, 08:22 PM
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That is high. Did you test the fuel pressure? will they? I doubt it is fuelpressure. I know of another member that had his regulator stuck, so his was getting like 65 psi at the rail. He did not have this problem.

Anyway, I know we could figure this out together if I could find time to come by.

question for you: when you say it will not idle below 4000rpm, are you saying that you can't get it below 4000rpm or are you saying that if you go below 4k, it dies?
Old 04-13-08, 08:05 PM
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well, it runs above or at 4000 and then dies completely out... It will not idle.. I have it at the shop now and they have had it a week. They had it running but it would die out after awhile... I left them the shop manual for the car too.. trying to help them out.,.,They tell me it is the fuel pump and regulator...I told them to go with the regulator for now...I do not think it is the pump... BUt ...heck,,,,what do I know... I will let you know what happens here... thansk...chris
Old 04-13-08, 08:15 PM
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why don't they test the parts instead of just guessing and replacing??? it doesn't take anything special to test either the regulator of the pump. You just need an EFI fuel pressure tester (like $30) and you can test them in just a few minutes. I have a tester, but I think that I left it at my Mom's in OR. I'm going to ship the rest of the stuff back the next time I am out there. I really doubt it is either of those that is causing the problem, though.
Old 04-14-08, 09:01 AM
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I called the shop and asked "why not tested the items??"..they said being it was electronic, it could be an intermitent problem and testing might not show that . The shop seems to think it is the fuel pump regulator..if not that...it is the pump... I don't know but we will see... I will let you know...thxs.....cjf

PS: I just want this fixed!!!!
Old 04-14-08, 09:14 AM
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bah!..nothing electronic involved! The regulator is a mechanical device..it is nothing more than a diaphram and a spring. The pressure builds inside, pushes the diaphram/spring back, which then opens the path for the return to the tank. This is how it works to regulate pressure. Either is works or it doesn't. It could stick closed (make fuel pressure=pump pressure=65psi), or could be stuck open (pressure low). I've seen them stick closed (65 psi fuel pressure, instead of about 30psi) and that car did not experience this problem. If stuck the other way (never seen that happen), the fuel pressure would be low and would likely run fine at low RPM (if enough pressure to flow through injectors at all) and not up top.

Regarding the fuel pump, it is ON/OFF type thing too. Either it has power (and the pump is good) and it runs or it doesn't. Simple as that. They should have a tester and could check both of these out in like 15 min or less. Personally, I would get it out of this shop. They seem like most shops that want to just replace stuff (at your expense) instead of doing any actual testing. If you don't absolutely need this car right away, I'll come by and fix it for you for free. I will be coming down that way in May anyway. Or if you have some way of getting it here, I could jump on it right away.
Old 04-14-08, 10:21 AM
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If you are saying that it will not run if you let it fall below 4k rpms, I would look for a HUGE air leak. Like a large air hose off, or bad intake manifold gasket.

Did you do anything other than replace the filter and pump? Was it running well before that? I doubt it if you were replacing the pump and filter. What caused you to do that?
Old 04-14-08, 10:26 AM
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I am thinking the same thing. I wasn't clear on the hisotry of the car, so I asked via pm. This is what he told me:

Originally Posted by cjf
hey kent: I will try the things you said.. I just bought he car so I have not operating history on the car. I can tell you it sat in an old barn and everything was musty.. I had to oil up a lot of things like the power windows and door locks etc.. they were all moisture damaged ( ie: rusty a bit) .. The gas in the car was drained because it was bad.. I put a used fuelpump and new fuel filter on the car with new lines. I did the MMO treatment on the car. I will try those things you said... I am anxious to get the car running and running right ...thanks ..I will keep you posted . stop by some time.. you are welcome... see ya -------chris ---------
Old 04-14-08, 10:28 AM
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People come here to get help...we try to help them and suggest certain things to do to fix the problem...but when it don't work out...he/she easly give up, and just want the problem fixed for double the amount...i don't understand...

I will 100% agree with gsl-se addict...easy fix just a little work to find the problem...wish you the best though
Old 04-14-08, 10:33 AM
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I'd tell that shop to get bent to be quite honest. Sounds like they are just stealing from you.

With the knowledge of some of the guys on this forum, all you need are a few simple tools and some time to do a proper diagnosi/troubleshooting

Good luck
Old 04-14-08, 10:44 AM
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Yea, I agree. Actually, their price for a new pump and regulator isn't bad, especially with the labor. BUT, they are doing what all the dealers do, just replace parts. Nobody diagnoses, or fixes anything anymore. They just replace parts until it runs right, or they give up. In the meantime, you go broke with all of the new unneeded parts.
Old 04-14-08, 10:47 AM
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After reading all of this again. I stand by my original thought. Really bad air leak.

Since he has no history with the car, and it doesn't sound like it was running right previously. I would look at ALL of the hoses on the car. Check the big air hoses on the air plenum. After that I would pull the top end off of it and have the injectors rebuilt. New rubber on the injectors, new uim gasket, all new silicone air hoses while you are in there. And then see what happens.
Old 04-14-08, 10:53 AM
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The $160 is just the regulator (no pump). I also imagine that this is the price for the part and does not include labor.
Old 04-14-08, 04:54 PM
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And after they replace all the parts they can think of, they will notify you that you need a new engine. Seen it all before...
Old 04-14-08, 06:00 PM
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I just put a new Walbro in my SE. Still deciding if I want to put an Aeromotive regulator in it. I probably will, but not right now.

Kentetsu, lol, you are probably right.


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