Help....ignitor fried??
11-18-01, 03:58 PM
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Special Dark
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Help....ignitor fried??
I started up my SE and was letting it warm up but after five minutes or so it died abruptly. It cranked over but did not fire up. The plugs, wires, cap etc, etc are fairly new. I removed the leading plug cranked it over again, no spark, ugghh. I removed the insulation tape around the wires and noticed the black and yellow stripe wires from the leading and trailing ignitors and a similar wire going to a location by the vaccum advance deal were all clamped down together. Is that how it's supposed to be?
I guess I have to get another ignitor. If anyone here has one to sell, please send me a pm or send me an email
darius@rx7club.com
thanks
darius
85 GSL-SE
I guess I have to get another ignitor. If anyone here has one to sell, please send me a pm or send me an email
darius@rx7club.com
thanks
darius
85 GSL-SE
11-19-01, 09:54 PM
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Before you go junkyard shopping or sink some flow into a used ignitor, consider the possibility that your engine fuse may have blown. There are two types of blown fuses when it comes to standard glass housing fuses ina Rex. It either blows where it should (ie. it melts the metal in the center) or it literally desolders its contact in the metal casing at the end where you can't see it. A simple visual inspection will not reveal such a blown fuse. Eliminate that possibility first before you go to testing your ignitors as outlined in the Haynes manual. I also found out the hard way that a fuse can be good only when its cold and, just like a bi-metal thermal switch, turn itself "off" when subjected to an electrical load beyond what that circuit was built for. I now run my stereo,fans and light "on" switches off relays instead of going directly to IGN or ENGINE for turn on current.
11-20-01, 09:02 PM
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Originally posted by mar3
Before you go junkyard shopping or sink some flow into a used ignitor, consider the possibility that your engine fuse may have blown. There are two types of blown fuses when it comes to standard glass housing fuses ina Rex. It either blows where it should (ie. it melts the metal in the center) or it literally desolders its contact in the metal casing at the end where you can't see it. A simple visual inspection will not reveal such a blown fuse. Eliminate that possibility first before you go to testing your ignitors as outlined in the Haynes manual. I also found out the hard way that a fuse can be good only when its cold and, just like a bi-metal thermal switch, turn itself "off" when subjected to an electrical load beyond what that circuit was built for. I now run my stereo,fans and light "on" switches off relays instead of going directly to IGN or ENGINE for turn on current.
Before you go junkyard shopping or sink some flow into a used ignitor, consider the possibility that your engine fuse may have blown. There are two types of blown fuses when it comes to standard glass housing fuses ina Rex. It either blows where it should (ie. it melts the metal in the center) or it literally desolders its contact in the metal casing at the end where you can't see it. A simple visual inspection will not reveal such a blown fuse. Eliminate that possibility first before you go to testing your ignitors as outlined in the Haynes manual. I also found out the hard way that a fuse can be good only when its cold and, just like a bi-metal thermal switch, turn itself "off" when subjected to an electrical load beyond what that circuit was built for. I now run my stereo,fans and light "on" switches off relays instead of going directly to IGN or ENGINE for turn on current.
11-20-01, 09:28 PM
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Don't be embarassed. It took an ASE tech and $100 of my hard-earned flow to learn about the blown fuse that looks good. I wish I had known about this Forum a lot earlier. 
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