headlights suddenly stopped working
11-14-20, 06:58 PM
#1
Part Timer
Thread Starter
headlights suddenly stopped working
Went out for a little drive tonight and flicked on my headlights. The headlights popped up and turned on as per usual however a few seconds later the headlights both stopped working at the same time. The popups stayed up, gauge cluster lights were on and blue headlight light in the gauge cluster stayed on but no headlights. Cant seem to find any loose connections and seems very unlikely that both bulbs would quit at the same time without warning. Has anyone had this issue before?
11-15-20, 10:26 AM
#3
Fuse likely, tho as a safety feature, its failure may indicate an underlying prob, so beware.
Fuse box has a fuse, but I think lights also tied into the three MAIN fuses, on the driver strut tower.
These are BIG, with a loop of wire on each. Check these as well. And wise to buy a spare or 2 for future needs as these are rather unique.
Stu A
80GS
AZ
Fuse box has a fuse, but I think lights also tied into the three MAIN fuses, on the driver strut tower.
These are BIG, with a loop of wire on each. Check these as well. And wise to buy a spare or 2 for future needs as these are rather unique.
Stu A
80GS
AZ
The following users liked this post:
Frogman (11-15-20)
11-15-20, 07:36 PM
#4
Senior Newbie Member
Does each individual pop up have a fuse or is it shared? Iv been wondering since my right side pop up stopped working and i haven't bothered trying to fix it since ist most likely the motor that gave out and i don't wanna spend money on it just yet,
11-15-20, 09:24 PM
#5
Fuse likely, tho as a safety feature, its failure may indicate an underlying prob, so beware.
Fuse box has a fuse, but I think lights also tied into the three MAIN fuses, on the driver strut tower.
These are BIG, with a loop of wire on each. Check these as well. And wise to buy a spare or 2 for future needs as these are rather unique.
Fuse box has a fuse, but I think lights also tied into the three MAIN fuses, on the driver strut tower.
These are BIG, with a loop of wire on each. Check these as well. And wise to buy a spare or 2 for future needs as these are rather unique.
Frogmans problem is most likely the small relay clamped to the side of the RH headlight motor. (under the rubber cover) Tap on it a couple times. If that doesn't work remove it and take off the metal cover. Inside, it has contacts like a set of points. Gently file the face of the contacts with a fingernail file and try again.
11-16-20, 09:13 AM
#7
Final (?) thought is to check the condition of the headlights actuator arms. There are 2 on each assy, with nylon pivot points that pop on to a ball socket. These should be cleaned & lubed (yearly). Often with age the nylon inserts are failing/broken. Arms need to be replaced as complete unit (4 total) and are avai new from Mazda (about $120+ on various ebay listings for a set) -OR: a forum member here has re-created just the nylon inserts which you can refit into the existing arms: $35-ish.
Stu A
80GS
AZ
Stu A
80GS
AZ
Trending Topics
11-16-20, 12:29 PM
#8
This happened to me many years ago and it turned out to be the multi-function switch. I replaced it with a used one and it has worked since. Maybe hitting it with contact cleaner will get it working.
11-17-20, 04:41 PM
#9
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Also, the "blue indicator" on the idiot lights is for when your BRIGHTS are activated. The combo switch is notoriously bad for not being able to carry the amperage through its small switches and wiring for the high amperage draw which your headlights require. You might try pulling back on your headlight stalk and see if the standard bulbs come back on. The core issue is that with age and internal corrosion of the wiring components, the current draw becomes too high for the switch to carry, which results in carbon arcs across your switch contacts.
The only true long-term fix is to retrofit a relay-based lighting harness which moves the high amperage draw circuits to stand-alone relays, leaving your column switches to just carry the switching loads, which are greatly reduced (milliamps vs. amps). Black Dragon used to sell these harnesses as a plug and play option, and they work wonderfully.
As the guys have said, have a look at your fuses and Fusible links, but first, turn off your brights, as that will confound the troubleshooting steps.
The only true long-term fix is to retrofit a relay-based lighting harness which moves the high amperage draw circuits to stand-alone relays, leaving your column switches to just carry the switching loads, which are greatly reduced (milliamps vs. amps). Black Dragon used to sell these harnesses as a plug and play option, and they work wonderfully.
As the guys have said, have a look at your fuses and Fusible links, but first, turn off your brights, as that will confound the troubleshooting steps.
11-17-20, 05:37 PM
#11
As of last week, I don't have headlights, clearance lights, or dash lights. They're failures are all pointing to the combo switch. The only time I get the headlights to come on is if I pull back on the turn signal stalk. An upgrade harness with relays would be great.
11-17-20, 09:21 PM
#12
Full Member
11-17-20, 11:34 PM
#13
The only true long-term fix is to retrofit a relay-based lighting harness which moves the high amperage draw circuits to stand-alone relays, leaving your column switches to just carry the switching loads, which are greatly reduced (milliamps vs. amps). Black Dragon used to sell these harnesses as a plug and play option, and they work wonderfully.
Been using these in my SA for a year now.
Stu A
80GS
AZ
11-18-20, 08:25 AM
#14
If the switch electrics are not compromised, may I suggest an alternative, which is to swap in LED headlamp bulbs. Very low draw (less than stock), spectacular improvement in photon output, plug-and-play install. (Requires H4-compatible lamp housing. I used Hellas...)
https://www.amazon.com/BEAMTECH-Head...6-05ac39e80cc0
Been using these in my SA for a year now.
Stu A
80GS
AZ
https://www.amazon.com/BEAMTECH-Head...6-05ac39e80cc0
Been using these in my SA for a year now.
Stu A
80GS
AZ
I don't know much about the LED headlights. I love the look of a bright halogen, especially the Sylvania Silverstars. But I guess I'm open to LED's. Do you really think that they give greater visibility and light down the road?
11-18-20, 08:34 AM
#15
7aull,
As far as the lamps are concerned, do you mean something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/IPCW-CWC-7006-Plain-Conversion-Headlight/dp/B001OMEPEU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=H4+7"+headlight&q id=1605709890&sr=8-4
As far as the lamps are concerned, do you mean something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/IPCW-CWC-7006-Plain-Conversion-Headlight/dp/B001OMEPEU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=H4+7"+headlight&q id=1605709890&sr=8-4
11-18-20, 09:37 AM
#16
Rotary Enthusiast
Here's the harness I used. Note that this would be fine for standard hi/lo wattages and LED replacement, but pushing it for "high power" halogens at like 65W and more.
As suggested above, make sure your switch contacts are good at the stalk before putting something like this in.
As suggested above, make sure your switch contacts are good at the stalk before putting something like this in.
11-18-20, 09:42 AM
#17
Stu A
80GS
AZ
Last edited by 7aull; 11-21-20 at 10:17 AM.
11-18-20, 09:46 AM
#19
Stu A
80GS
AZ
11-18-20, 09:54 AM
#20
Rotary Enthusiast
Stu,
Are the Beamtech LEDs you suggest the exact ones you are using, and are they blue or white in practical use? Thanks!
Are the Beamtech LEDs you suggest the exact ones you are using, and are they blue or white in practical use? Thanks!
The following users liked this post:
Toruki (11-18-20)
11-18-20, 10:52 AM
#22
Here's the harness I used. Note that this would be fine for standard hi/lo wattages and LED replacement, but pushing it for "high power" halogens at like 65W and more.
As suggested above, make sure your switch contacts are good at the stalk before putting something like this in.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
As suggested above, make sure your switch contacts are good at the stalk before putting something like this in.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The following users liked this post:
Toruki (11-18-20)
11-18-20, 06:30 PM
#23
Ok, so if I were wanting to go with a cheaper LED bulb that will fit the standard 7" housing with the H4 socket like you said, are there any other brands that you would recommend? $40 per bulb is a bit steep for me, considering I have to buy the headlight assemblies too. There are the ones that don't have a pigtail, but just plug right into the stock harness.
