Have you paid to get a 13b swap?
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Have you paid to get a 13b swap?
my car has recently started acting up i think the rear rotor is going on it and now it wont start at all so instead of having my mechanic look at it i figure i will just get a new motor at first i was thinking about the 13b tt but i figure that wouyld be alot of headache for whoever is putting it in so i think i will be getting a 13b t from a jdm wholesaler and i was thinking about asking a good rotary shop locally if they would put it in. the motor swap costs roughly 1500 so my question is how much would it cost to get it installed? what would you pay? any other things i should get done while the car is in this stage? any suggestions would be appreciated
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Jolly Green Giant
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1. What year and model is the vehicle....this makes a ton of difference in both starting position and modifications to look out for, but either way just about every drivetrain related system is going to have to be modified to support a 13B-T from the fuel lines, fuel pump, possibly even the tank itself, to the cooling, possibly rear axle, exhaust, intake, etc. etc. I believe the rule of thumb is, take your budget, multiply it by 3 then add another 2 times ontop of that but you get the idea.
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84 gsl nice body new paint and interior and i am well off any ways i am just looking for a ball park figure i have a rear axle to support
radiator 150
fuel pump 75
fuel lines 15 bucks
intercooler 200
bigger turbo 300
motor swap package includes trans alternator everyhing
all i want to know is how much someone would want to doo all of it so i dont get ripped off
also does anyone know of force fed rotery that was who i was thinking of to hook it up
i will get you guys more info about this soon any more suggestions would be appreciated
btw so 24 000 might do it then? that is pretty rough math to do i am not 16 delivering pizzas
radiator 150
fuel pump 75
fuel lines 15 bucks
intercooler 200
bigger turbo 300
motor swap package includes trans alternator everyhing
all i want to know is how much someone would want to doo all of it so i dont get ripped off
also does anyone know of force fed rotery that was who i was thinking of to hook it up
i will get you guys more info about this soon any more suggestions would be appreciated
btw so 24 000 might do it then? that is pretty rough math to do i am not 16 delivering pizzas
Last edited by GenOneProject; 05-01-11 at 01:27 AM.
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Those estimates are a bit low... especially the turbo, unless you score a good deal on a used Holset. Even then, there's also the exhaust manifold and wastegate(s) to consider. And a tunable ECU (and someone to tune it). And a wideband and other gauges. And if you go with the TII transmission you'll need a custom driveshaft. Add at least $400 for exhaust system components not counting the fabrication itself. Plus, there are all sorts of little things that add up quickly. And since you don't have a GSL-SE, I strongly encourage you to consider a modified fuel tank or a surge tank. You get the idea: it'll probably be more expensive than you're expecting, especially if you have to pay someone to do the work for you.
Oh, and for the record, an REW or a TII swap are essentially identical in terms of difficulty in a first-gen chassis. Either way you'll be using the front cover for the motor mounts.
Oh, and for the record, an REW or a TII swap are essentially identical in terms of difficulty in a first-gen chassis. Either way you'll be using the front cover for the motor mounts.
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what a am looking for is a price thanks for the advice tho keep it coming
driveshaft 250?
it may be a gsl se i dont know and it doesent really matter to me because it is alredy better than a gsl se the motor just crapped out and it is time for a upgrade
so should i just spend the extra 200 for the rew swap or just stick to a tII i am looking for advice and a price not people telling me no
driveshaft 250?
it may be a gsl se i dont know and it doesent really matter to me because it is alredy better than a gsl se the motor just crapped out and it is time for a upgrade
so should i just spend the extra 200 for the rew swap or just stick to a tII i am looking for advice and a price not people telling me no
Last edited by GenOneProject; 05-01-11 at 01:46 AM.
#6
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I'm certainly not telling you not to do it. Just making sure you know what you're getting yourself into.
Whether it's a GSL-SE or not does matter, because the GSL-SE has a very different fuel system from the 12A cars. The GSL-SE fuel tank has an actual sump (not a very big one, but still) and has a larger outlet and return. If you have a 12A model, you'll have to take that into account when you piece together the new fuel system. Don't forget upgraded injectors, too, if you're making much more than stock power.
Anyway, a lot of the questions of pricing depend on how much power you're looking to make. I mean, if all you want is 230 WHP or so, you can avoid a huge chunk of the cost by using the stock TII turbo. (And trust me when I say 230 WHP is still quite entertaining in these cars.)
As for the REW vs. TII thing, again it depends on how much power you're after. The S4 TII rear irons have a tendency to crack at high power levels, whereas S5 or later don't have that problem. The later engines also have higher compression rotors, which may or may not be a good thing depending on your goals.
Whether it's a GSL-SE or not does matter, because the GSL-SE has a very different fuel system from the 12A cars. The GSL-SE fuel tank has an actual sump (not a very big one, but still) and has a larger outlet and return. If you have a 12A model, you'll have to take that into account when you piece together the new fuel system. Don't forget upgraded injectors, too, if you're making much more than stock power.
Anyway, a lot of the questions of pricing depend on how much power you're looking to make. I mean, if all you want is 230 WHP or so, you can avoid a huge chunk of the cost by using the stock TII turbo. (And trust me when I say 230 WHP is still quite entertaining in these cars.)
As for the REW vs. TII thing, again it depends on how much power you're after. The S4 TII rear irons have a tendency to crack at high power levels, whereas S5 or later don't have that problem. The later engines also have higher compression rotors, which may or may not be a good thing depending on your goals.
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what a am looking for is a price thanks for the advice tho keep it coming
driveshaft 250?
it may be a gsl se i dont know and it doesent really matter to me because it is alredy better than a gsl se the motor just crapped out and it is time for a upgrade
so should i just spend the extra 200 for the rew swap or just stick to a tII i am looking for advice and a price not people telling me no
driveshaft 250?
it may be a gsl se i dont know and it doesent really matter to me because it is alredy better than a gsl se the motor just crapped out and it is time for a upgrade
so should i just spend the extra 200 for the rew swap or just stick to a tII i am looking for advice and a price not people telling me no
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#8
ALLROTOR
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Take the advice given and talk to each shop. Sometimes too low of a price is not always good. Instead of being cheaper bc they've done a few swaps in the past and know what they're up against it could very well be the opposite. I'd say anything over 1500 for a stock TII swap in a 1st gen w/out any unforeseen labor and parts is too much even if the shop does really clean work. Harness and making sure it runs 100% is the hardest part, so if they're dealing with TII's reguraly that shouldn't be hard at all. Anything away from stock and it'll drive the price up.
Guys who wrench regularly on their own rx7's might think even that is high, but again all that depends on your own experience.
Guys who wrench regularly on their own rx7's might think even that is high, but again all that depends on your own experience.
#9
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I wouldn't trust any used jdm engine, rebuild whatever you buy. So $1500+ for a standalone, $1000 for the used engine + $3000 for a rebuild. Fuel system upgrade $250-$600+ depending on if you have a gsl or gslse (can't understand why you wouldn't know, post some pics). Exhaust $500 for cheapo custom or $1000 to have it done right. Tranny, TII or S4/5 n/a, big $$$$$ difference there too. labor for the swap, standalone wiring and tune $1500 minimum!! Already hitting $10,000 as a minimum.
You gotta pay to play or learn to do it all yourself.
Post pics of the car and engine so we can give further direction.
You gotta pay to play or learn to do it all yourself.
Post pics of the car and engine so we can give further direction.
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as one who has still yet to completely finish the swap id say the 10k mark would be a pretty reasonable starting point.
hood scoop or fmic? fmic needs plumbing
exhaust? over axle or under axle?
wideband and other helpful / necessary guages, places to put them
proper oil an coolant hoses
all kinds of electrical stuff (from fuse box to injector clips)
all kinds of rubber stuff (from injector o rings to motor mounts)
oil cooler?
gaskets?
filters (air/fuel/oil)?
i could go on for quite some time like this
the list is sick, nit picky, never complete, and a hell of a challenge. the swap itself was the easy part, it is alll the little things that will keep biting you in the *** and wallet. and that was doing it myself, cheap as possible, as a project of love. add a mechanic with bills to pay an better things to do and watch the price sky rocket just in time spent. then after you add all this stuff up, make some room for broken / stripped bolts and horrible acts of god and nature. 10 grand miiiight get you there, depends on how expensive your mechanic is living i guess.
you are asking people to price something that is quite difficult to quantify. people arent telling you "no" people are telling you "im not sure you realize what you are in for or asking"
hood scoop or fmic? fmic needs plumbing
exhaust? over axle or under axle?
wideband and other helpful / necessary guages, places to put them
proper oil an coolant hoses
all kinds of electrical stuff (from fuse box to injector clips)
all kinds of rubber stuff (from injector o rings to motor mounts)
oil cooler?
gaskets?
filters (air/fuel/oil)?
i could go on for quite some time like this
the list is sick, nit picky, never complete, and a hell of a challenge. the swap itself was the easy part, it is alll the little things that will keep biting you in the *** and wallet. and that was doing it myself, cheap as possible, as a project of love. add a mechanic with bills to pay an better things to do and watch the price sky rocket just in time spent. then after you add all this stuff up, make some room for broken / stripped bolts and horrible acts of god and nature. 10 grand miiiight get you there, depends on how expensive your mechanic is living i guess.
you are asking people to price something that is quite difficult to quantify. people arent telling you "no" people are telling you "im not sure you realize what you are in for or asking"
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