T_Racer

iTrader: (1)

I know I will get flamed for not searching, but I have and I must be a retard today. But doing this, if the tach reads off the trailing ignitor, and the stock trailing is not used, where is the tach signal coming from? My tach is still not working, I have checked with a spark checker and all four wires are firing, still stock ignition at this point. Is the stock trailing ignitor used, retained, etc? Also, is the 2G coil just fed directly and in effect a wasted spark ignition?

On another note, I thought the omp would have to be replaced as the arm was seized. Got it off, cleaned up and got it all moving free again. I know that it is pumping as the lines are off and while running, with premix right now, having oil puddle under the lines where they go to the carb. so now just to measure and double check and no more premix. woohoo.

Thanks in advance

Travis

lovintha7

Stock coil and ignitor are retained. You'll just move the trailing stuff to the leading side of the dizzy so it only has to make 1 jump. Plus, the tach is off the coil, not the ignitor...you might wanna check that.

T_Racer

iTrader: (1)

I checked last night, and on the trailing coil, or both to be correct, there is one wire on the + with a boot, and a double tang on the - with one yellow with green stripe wire attatched to it. If this is the coil ground, should there be another wire off the - for the tach signal? or does the tach signal tee off this somewhere in the engine compartment or uder the dash? I have read the haynes manual but not so good at reading their wiring diagrams. Not the clearest in some areas. Just trying to get the tach working. Also, the tach is reading below 0 right now, I have taken the gauges out to check connections, will this cause a problem and read right once signal is applied to the gauge?

One more thing, I think I remember someone saying that the wire coming into the tach reads AC, so could I check the gauge cluster plugs and find one that has AC, thus meaning that signal is getting to the tach, tach is just bad? Thanks in advance.

Cheers,
Travis

Kim's FB

Yes, the tach wire tee's off somewhere on that yellow/green stripe - trailing wire.
Was it working before you started screwing with it?

Did you try to simply unhook the current yellow/green wire that you have connected to the coil that is energized, and plug in the other yellow/green wire in it's place?

T_Racer

iTrader: (1)

No the tach was not working when I got the car. Both coils are firing, which would indicate to me that 1). both igniters are good 2). both positive and negative wires are good at the coils. I have verifed the sparking by hooking all 4 wires up to a spark checker and all four wires were producing spark. I will try hooking the yellow with green wire up to the leading and see if that helps, but it would seem that the wire is making a ground at the coil, prob. a wiring prob where it tees off, at the cluster connection, or the tach is just bad. is there a way to test the tach, or just replace it with another one? This whole thing has actually got me thinking about putting autometers in for more accuracy, better looking, blah blah blah, but for now, just trying to get this working. Thanks in advance, and please let me know if there is any flaws in my checking of things

Travis

Kim's FB

Hmm? If I had this problem, the first thing to check is the meter fuse. If that's fine, then I would test for contiunity. Since you have the gauges out, that yellow/green wire goes to the connector of your cluster. So basically the yellow/green wire goes from the - trailing yellow/green wire tee by the coil to the tachometer. Check out my diagram:

T_Racer

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Kim. Will check that tonight. On with the 2GDFI. Whoo Hoo!!

Travis