googoo

i am going to rebuild my engine and do some other stuff cause im building it up for drifting, and i was tinking about getting the Racing beat Carbon Apex seal Racing rebuild kit has anyone use Carbon seals yet? Does anyone know any pros or cons about them?

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Carbons are soft and will not last as long as stock. They are good for high RPM engines (like bridgeports) and when they break, they don't do as much damage. Stick with the OEM unless you are doing a bridge or similar with the supporting mods needed for high RPM..

cpa7man

iTrader: (2)

We use them for racing applications were the engine are torn down and rebuilt every 2-3 seasons. As gsl-se said, they are softer so they will allow high rpm without messing up your housings. I shifting at between 8500-9500 rpm with carbons and supporting racing mods.

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

They also have poor compression at low RPM so would be completely unsuitable for street driving.

Jon

EpitrochoidalPower!

I wouldnt be so sure. The guy who rebuilt my engine and bridgeported it has a peripheral-port 13b with carbon seals that he uses as an everyday driver. Its in a little old mazda pickup. He let my brother drive it and he says it doesnt have much of a problem at low revs. I must still ask him for a drive in that thing, its a beast. I think people get the wrong idea about bridgeports and peripheral ports because they are usually used on track cars with very light flywheels and very light clutches with short intake runners and short exhaust manifolds etc etc. Which makes a car thats unbearable at low revs. My bridgeport also has carbon seals and ill be using it on the street. Ive only just got it started though and im waiting on brake pads to start driving it. Should get them next week, will let you know how it drives.

blown7

I have carbons seals in my 13B-PP and it seemed fine for street driving. However i blew the engine last night drag racing. I think i cracked a seal but we will see when i tear it down in the next few days. I will let you know what kind of damage was done to the internals once it is apart. I hope my housings are ok.

ultimatejay

iTrader: (1)

I use carbons in my 12abp and drive on the street and drag race. I have no problems driving on the street. When the engine is hot it's a little harder to start because the carbons give a lower compression. Pro's and cons. Pros- they are cheap, great for high reving engines up to 10,500 because they are light, don't damage housings when they break- very rarely- what may cause damage is if the spring comes out, then you will have damage. I have had one tip break off and had no damage to my housings at all. Cons- give lower compression than OEM and ceramics, very brittle and will break alot easier if the engine detonates. Do not use on Turbo applications and it is not recommended to use with NOS but alot of people who know how to tune do. My recommendations is if you have a BP or PP and don't have alot of cash then I would use these. If you have the cash then buy ceramics for sure. If you have a stock port or street port then just use the OEM's or Atkins.

1BADSP

iTrader: (4)

I run them in my 13B Pport on the street,and at the dragstrip,it's all in the tuning,i'm also running 175 shot of nitrous,i use double springs to help make more torque,i have never had any problems with hot starting.as long as the clearances are set right there shouldn't be any issues.i also shift my engine at 11,000 rpm,and it stayed together for years before taking it apart for more upgrades.last but not least this is all made possible by Rob @ PineappleRacing.

ultimatejay

iTrader: (1)

Do you mean double springs on the carbon seals and how did you do that?