I used to have one of these on my 92 Integra GS-R, and thought they were actually a pretty well made product. It seemed to help keep the intake manifold cooler. I have never used one on a rotary before and just wondered if anyone here has used one or is currently using one? I was thinking about using one in combination with an aluminum heat shield for the header, and some 20 mm freeze plugs in the intake's coolant passages. That should stop just about all the heat transfer to the incoming air....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/79-85...spagenameZWD1V

 

The 79-85 gaskets are not the same, SAs are different and that's what's pictired. It will not seal the exhaust port on the 81 and later models. If all of the intake heating is removed, they can ice up in cold waeather.

 

^too true, my sidedraft manifold w/ a stock gasket and no coolant passage gets frosty when its below 60*. and regardless of outside temps, the manifold is always cool to the touch

i dont think aluminum reflects heat very well (the purpose of a heat shield) it actually absorbs and radiates it. on a side note i think its kinda funny that the gasket still has the coolant passages, i think it kinda defeats its purpose

 

Any updates on these products? I'm thinking of reusing my gaskets even thought they say you should replace them, but i ran across these, and wonder if anybody has put some miles on them? Also do you think they will hold up to a single turbo heat and boost?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-95...em350040280875

 

Whoever is making those things is an idiot. They list it as being an application for 79-85, when the gaskets are different for 79-80 and 81-85. I brought this to their attention and sent them actual pictures of both gaskets. I showed them the differences in the black dragon catalog, and finally sent them the different Mazda part numbers. In the end they continued to tell me I was misinformed. I was hoping to try one of these plastic gaskets out on my 83, but if they aren't willing to make a correct gasket for me to try then I'll tell them where to put it....

 

looking at the site teh material is "top secret" to me it jsut looks like some teflon.. which has amazing properties.. teflon is ressitent to just about any chemical, it can withstand high heat, and is soft enough to make a good gasket.. i used to make gaskets and seals for a job i used to have. and used PTFE for alot of stuff

 

Yes, it's Teflon. I make all my intake gaskets out of it.

1. Go to a plastic supply house, get yourself a sheet of the stuff
2. Drill holes where your bolts go
3. Put bolts through gasket material, into manifold
4. Cut the gasket to shape using an Xacto knife

You will now have a gasket that only cost you a few bucks, will seal well, can be reused, and won't have to be scraped off when you want to remove the manifold.

 

elwood what's the thickness of the sheet you use to make the gaskets?

 

most gaskets are .062 (1/16th)

 

As was already mentioned, 1/16 is a good thickness -- that's what mine are. That's thin enough that it won't alter your OEM spacing much. There are people who go thicker to try and better isolate the manifold and keep it cooler -- 1/4" and even 1/2". Just keep in mind that a thicker gasket will alter the placement of your components and may cause fitment issues (plus you'll need longer fasteners, too).

 

thanks for the info and quick response guys!

 

So can I buy a sheet of this and use it for my 12a exhaust gasket, and for my 13b turbo exhaust gasket?

I have an adapater manifold with a 12a and 13b flange welded to each other.

Will this wishstand the high temps? becuase i see the turbo manifold is ridiculous money compared to the n/a 12a one

 

i would no reccomend it for exhaust gaskets, max operating temp is about 500*f you should use a metal/graphite gasket just like the ones at an exhaust shop.. htere are a few other non asbestos materials that can withstand alot higher temps. such as donex and stuff like that .. just stick with the metal gasket its your best bet

 

I thought it was too good to be true

 

Coolant flowing through the manifold is necessary when exhaust also flows through the manifold (stock Air Control and Check Valve system). As for whether coolant in the manifold is necesssary when either the ACV port is blocked in the engine, or an ACV block off plate is used, is not known (by me). It just seems like a good idea to allow coolant to circulate through the manifold to COOL it when much hotter exhaust gasses are present.

To put it simply: block the ACV port in the intermediate plate. Then you can safely block the coolant ports in the rotor housings.

 

Jeff,

What method do you typically use to block the ACV port in the intermediate plate?

 

Quicksteel. Gotta make sure the ACV port is very clean first. It's best to do during an engine rebuild.

 

where can u buy ptfe sheets?

 

i have a set of these on my FD that i bought off of ebay. the holes do not match up too well out of the package. i had to alter them slightly but they are great since i am constantly removing my UIM