Has anyone removed their Headlight Motors and now open/close them manually?
#1
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Has anyone removed their Headlight Motors and now open/close them manually?
I have removed my headlight motors and I'm looking for ideas on how to lift and lower them manually.
Has anyone done this?
Has anyone done this?
#4
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I dont know for sure about it on the rx7 but i know my brother in law had a ford probe and there was a hand crank under the hood to manual crank them open just in case the motor burned out. I dont have my rx7 yet but it might be true for them as well.
#5
making paper cranes
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Did you take the motors out? because if they are still there you can just pop the cap off and twist the *** by hand. It's how most people get the sleepy eyes look. If the motors are out, you could use a hand lever that locks in with pins.
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The base to the arm can rotate as can the slider to the light. You can replace the arm and pins with a little hydraulic cylinder form a robot parts online store or something, run a line to inside the dash so you push down on another piston and they pop up.
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I think its for a weight reduction. am I right? So junkyard parts a no go.
If you don't mind getting out and doing it just mount something that you can pop the arm onto when you need them up. Or just leave them up. Looking at your build awhile back make me think your not to hard up for cash, maybe get a flush mount setup. Have you seen Norwegian rotarys build. with the cf widebody and fc bumper on the fb. He has a slick looking flush-mount. I'm looking to rid myself of the extra weight also.
If you don't mind getting out and doing it just mount something that you can pop the arm onto when you need them up. Or just leave them up. Looking at your build awhile back make me think your not to hard up for cash, maybe get a flush mount setup. Have you seen Norwegian rotarys build. with the cf widebody and fc bumper on the fb. He has a slick looking flush-mount. I'm looking to rid myself of the extra weight also.
#15
seriously... weight reduction?!!! What a pain in the *** to have to get to get out of the car every time you need the lights up - I have a stock system. If its the sleepy eye look your going for you can just turn them up with the ****.
Weight reduction?????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You might want to make sure all the coinage is our of your pockets when you drive the car - Also make sure that you don't put more than 2 gallons of fuel because its 5 pounds for every gallon of fuel! Sorry - ill stop!! Its just funny when people are concerned about a 5 pound part!
Weight reduction?????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You might want to make sure all the coinage is our of your pockets when you drive the car - Also make sure that you don't put more than 2 gallons of fuel because its 5 pounds for every gallon of fuel! Sorry - ill stop!! Its just funny when people are concerned about a 5 pound part!
#16
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seriously... weight reduction?!!! What a pain in the *** to have to get to get out of the car every time you need the lights up - I have a stock system. If its the sleepy eye look your going for you can just turn them up with the ****.
Weight reduction?????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You might want to make sure all the coinage is our of your pockets when you drive the car - Also make sure that you don't put more than 2 gallons of fuel because its 5 pounds for every gallon of fuel! Sorry - ill stop!! Its just funny when people are concerned about a 5 pound part!
Weight reduction?????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You might want to make sure all the coinage is our of your pockets when you drive the car - Also make sure that you don't put more than 2 gallons of fuel because its 5 pounds for every gallon of fuel! Sorry - ill stop!! Its just funny when people are concerned about a 5 pound part!
#17
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PM bwaits, he had a setup in his blue/white widebody that did this (he sold it recently).
Not sure if he sells it thru RE-SPEED or not. There some pictures somewhere that shows how it worked.
It was very simple and reliable to operate but you had to open the hood.
Not sure if he sells it thru RE-SPEED or not. There some pictures somewhere that shows how it worked.
It was very simple and reliable to operate but you had to open the hood.
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A pair of 5 pound parts that hang past front axle centerline, and high up as well.
A bunch of 5 pound parts can add up quick Every pound matters.
-billy
#20
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Thinking about this a bit more.... If you added a spring into the equation, you would only need a cable to raise them (or lower) and then let the spring draw them down when released (or raise them). That would get you down to one cable per light...
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Toss a parking break lever in backwards somewhere and you have your control system done in a jiffy.
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I made something similar to what billy has just more complex. Doesnt mean it was better it was just different. I had a springloaded arm that slide forward and backward in the chassis. It slid in an aluminium plate that was mounted to the holes where the motor was mounted stock and had a spring pulling the arm rearward towards the back of the car. And a short handle to pull the assembly up from under the hood. The plate had a groove in it so when you pull forward on the sliding portion the spring fights you. If you slid it all the way forward if would drop down in the notch and the headlight would be in the raised position. when you wanted to lower them you would lift the sliding portion up a bit and let it slide towards the back again. Even in the closed position the spring had enough tension to keep the headlights from flopping up and down. It was OK and didn't weight much but the real weight was the headlight assembly its self so I ditched it and put the factory motors back in. I also did not like having to pull over and raise them on the side of the road because it was getting dark. I drove my FB all the time. I like the idea of flushmounts better as far as weight goes. But I like the pop ups too. I'm not sure what I'm going to go with.