I have a 84 GSL-SE with a streetported S4 motor with S5 rotor, no emissions, full RB exhaust ect ect.

I need to drive 4 hours home tomorrow morning/afternoon so I need to get this bastard started. Ive had no problems for a couple months before this, but today I replaced the thermostat (it was stuck open)

Ok I replaced the thermostat in my car todayI went to start it but didnt use my usual technique and it flooded (not entirely uncommon).
I pulled the engine fuse to cut the fuel pump and get some of the gas out like I usually do. Still no luck starting it.
I pulled the plugs and put in my extra (used) set and tried it all over again but it still wouldnt start. At this point I was thinking I might be running out of gas so I put about 2 gallons in and got some carb cleaner to shoot down the throttle body. It still wont start.
I went and roll started it the motor started but with alot of break up and it wouldnt stay running at all. It slowly went from about 5k and kept falling slowly even with the petal floored.
So I pulled the wires and tested the spark, I didnt get spark from the front rotor (I thought that the coils were for leading and trailing) But I went to the parts store and got a couple Accel coils and put em in. Great spark all around.
Go to start it with the other now dry set of plugs in there, and it still wont start.

I have no idea were to start looking now besides all the electical connections and or a vacum leak. Any help, suggestions ect would be helpful.

Long Duck and Rotary Doctor chime in please.

Thanks
Greg

 

You didn't happen to unplug the coolant temp sensor at the back of the water pump housing by chance? rx7doctor Are you still running the Se afm?

 

I would check to see if you knocked off the air inlet duct or maybe somehow disconnected the coolant sensor on the back of the water pump. You are right about the ignition being paired leading/trailing, so if you are not getting spark on the front rotor check plugs, dizzy cap, rotor, etc. Did you check for spark on the rear plugs?

I have a kill switch for my fuel pump for when mine gets flooded. That way, you turn the pump off, crank until it fires, then flip the switch and it will keep running. You can also pull the blue spade connector on the trailing coil. This will keep the injectors from spraying, but you will still have spark to help clear things out.

Kent

 

I did check the spark on the rear plugs and it was strong.

I will check those things this morning

And yes I am still running the SE AFM.

Any other suggestions and thanks for the help already.

-Greg

 

carb cleaner isn't gonna help get it crunk, you're gonna need starting fluid.. have you checked the plug wires?