1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

GSL-SE Wheel Stud Question

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Old Nov 15, 2003 | 09:27 AM
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From: Woodinville, WA
GSL-SE Wheel Stud Question

I did a search on this, and it sounds like the wheel studs in a GSL-SE are different from other 1st Gens. Is this true?

I am wondering how the studs are put into the rotor. Are they Pressed in, or threaded? One of mine got stripped on the end two threads when taking off the lug with an impact wrrech. Can I replace just the one stud, or do I need to get a whole new rotor with studs? Or can I retap the stud? I think it would be hard to retap myself and match the good threads with the new ones, because the std is really knarled up on the end. I have never replaced rotors before, ro studs, so I don't know the process.

Thanks.
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Old Nov 15, 2003 | 10:17 AM
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From: Gulf Breeze, FL
SE uses the propuler 114mm spacing, where the other 1st gens run 110mm...you're lucky, won't have trouble finding wheels.
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Old Nov 15, 2003 | 10:52 AM
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DO I dare even say it! No I think everyone knows you didn't even read the damm post.
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Old Nov 15, 2003 | 12:33 PM
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You are correct that the GSL-SE uses studs, which are press in front the back. All first gen's 12a used lug bolts that threaded into the rotors-axles to hold on the wheels, but with a threaded stud conversion kit they could use nuts.
Anyways to change a stud(s), I recommend you remove the rotor from the car, take a 4lb sledge hammer and drive the bad stud out. A few good hits and it will be out. I use my tow hitch with out the ball to be my anvil, but any solid surface will work. Once you get the old stud out, flip over the rotor and drive in the new stud with a few good smacks. Do not do this on concrete!!
I buy my studs from Mazda, when I had to run spacers,(cause I bought the wrong size offset wheels) I had to run longer studs off a 2nd gen but they are not threaded all the way down cause their rotor is thicker.
But you should be able to find them from a good parts store, I think they are the same as early Miata's.

John
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Old Nov 15, 2003 | 01:13 PM
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From: Sandy Eggo
well, if its on the rear you need to pull the axle out of the rear end. then you can beat the stud out, bang a new one in and reverse the process. If its on the front, like rhino said, they're in the rotor and it must be removed from the car to service the studs.
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Old Nov 15, 2003 | 01:36 PM
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I replaced a rear stud without removing the axle. its a pain, but less work than removing the axle
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Old Nov 15, 2003 | 01:56 PM
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From: Woodinville, WA
Originally posted by 10,000
well, if its on the rear you need to pull the axle out of the rear end. then you can beat the stud out, bang a new one in and reverse the process. If its on the front, like rhino said, they're in the rotor and it must be removed from the car to service the studs.
Does removing the axel involve taking off the differential cover, and taking out the rear end? If it does I was planning on doing a rear end rebuild anyway. If not can you list the steps to taking out the axel?

Once I have the axel out with the rotor I assume I follow the directions rhino gave above...Is that right?
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Old Nov 15, 2003 | 01:57 PM
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From: Woodinville, WA
Originally posted by Max7
I replaced a rear stud without removing the axle. its a pain, but less work than removing the axle
Hod did you do it without removing the axel?
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Old Nov 15, 2003 | 03:40 PM
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Originally posted by Spinner-D(eluxe)
Hod did you do it without removing the axel?
Pretty sure you can loosen the backing plate (dust cover?) and then bang each stud out while tilting the plate away from the stud..

You will have to disconnect the brake line too so you dont bend it though..but yeah its less work than removing the whole axle
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