adssoccer

the long primary system from racing beat for a gsl-se, does it allow for the 5th and 6th ports to be opened and shut, or would i need to wire them open? also, mazdatrix sells two gsl-se long primary systems, one is exactly like rbs, the other is like $50 more expensive but says it has openings for actuators and o2 sensor. i don't care about the o2, but i want to be able to have my 5th and 6th ports controlled by exhaust. will racing beats work?

HOZZMANRX7

iTrader: (43)

I bought mine after the Mazdatrix modification at the recomendation of my friends at Racing Beat.

The mod they do to it is unique and very trick as to operating the Actuators. If your running the stock EFI, you'll definitely want the O2 sensor.

Good luck!

adssoccer

i thought i read that the actuators were operated by the backpressure from the cat or presilencer, not the header. and is the o2 sensor that important in keeping the motor running good?

dvcn

Racing Beat pn 16424 will bolt on. Yes, the 5th/6th ports are exhaust pressure operated.

I've always removed the 5th/6th ports for a significant 'free' power increase. Advancing the timing will also add power and economy, also free.

hotty

dvcn, what mods do u have?? what is the altitude that u ran that 14.38? and how much do I advance the timing? what are the benefits/ disadvantages?

84 gsl-se
RB header
Pineapple racing sleeves
k+n
2.5" exh
hi-flow muffler
Viper Blue paint
Eagle Alloys rims
lightened ~ 150lbs
removed emissions ****
actuators locked open
new plugs

dvcn

The elevation was relatively low, somewhere around 200-300 feet.

At the time of the 14.38 run:
2580lbs w/driver, 2 MSD 6A's, MSD superconductor wires, 3 stock coils, direct fire on leading, 26BTC L/ 16BTC T, Racing Beat 'street port' exhaust, RB Dellorto intake, 5/6 ports removed, lower manifold lightly cleaned up, electric fan. BR9EQ-14 plugs.

Stock: pulleys, flywheel, clutch.

205/55-14 NT555r's (I've run a 14.42 on really crappy 205/60-14's). The car just doesn't make enough power to really make use of the tires.

Launch at 6-6500 depending upon how well I heated up the tires. Line lock makes it easier to heat the tires without hurting the driveline. 3rd gear through the traps at 8k+.

This engine had 205k on it at the time.

Funny thing is that most people think I'm lying about these numbers. It's really no big deal, just proper tuning! If I was going to lie, I would have made up a much more exciting number than a 14!

hotty

Thats pretty cool, I am just wondering why a dellorto intake? does that mean you are using a carb instead of the stock EFI? and how did you pull off 6 - 6.5k launches without MASSIVE wheelspin?? I guess heating the tires makes a huge difference... Usually on a warm day, say 25 degrees C, I can dump on pavement at 3000 rpm and spin em mad.. thanks for the info.. greatly appreciated.
Daryl

REVHED

Ah yes, now I remember. You got blasted by some people in that thread at mazspeed.

Personally I think those numbers are very achievable with that setup and the correct tuning. Some people are just ignorant I guess.

dvcn

revhed - yes, that's me. I will continue to give real, tested information until I get abused, again. You will notice that I only post on threads that I have first hand experience with.

hotty - Dropping the clutch like an on/off switch normally doesn't work for most street setups. A little bit of clutch slippage works well and is easier on the u-joints as well. Which is also why I like running a clutch that isn't excessively harsh. My current clutch/pp is a stock replacement unit with over 100k on it. I don't get 3rd gear chirps but it doesn't slip. Heating the tires makes a tremendous difference in starting line traction. When I switched to the aluminum flywheel I had to raise the launch rpm to 6500-7500 and ride the clutch a bit more but still couldn't touch the 60' times that the stock heavy flywheel gave.

The EGI went a long time ago. The Dellorto (or Holley) system is lighter and will produce more power. I used to get 23-25mpg with the EGI, when I switched to the Dellorto I got 22-23mpg but a lot more power. The Dellorto is no longer manufactured but Racing Beat has just introduced a Holley manifold/kit for the 6pt 13B's. It should make excellent power, I'm guessing it can be tuned to make more power than the Dellorto. With the carb I feel like I've gained both reliability and power. As always, it comes down to what you want the car to do.

Manntis

I've heard aftermarket exhaust systems cause more vibration - izzit true?

Zulu

Removed the 5th and 6th ports?

adssoccer

i think he means he keeps them open all the time. however, i thought that there was more low end torque to be had with the actuators working. as an autox-er, i like low end torque, and would like to keep it, if not have more.

Zulu

One of mine was stuck closed so I used an air-compressor to have a go at it, now it's stuck open :p, the other works fine tho so its all good.

Zulu

yes, just think about all that resonance

hotty

thanks dvcn, more info is always good... I understand very well now that u have specified lightweight flywheel, and older clutch...

Manntis

crapola. As it is my shifter vibrates at idle, and this from a smoother rotary (as opposed to boinger)

Zulu

heh, like all my vibration is from the exhaust :p

dvcn

I've run both the stock flywheel and aluminum, both with stock clutch and pressure plates. No slippage. When I install the new (higher hp) engine, I will go with the Racing Beat street strip clutch/pp.

The heavy flywheel is better for drag racing. It is easier to launch and maintains more inertia between shifts(assuming you aren't speed shifting). The aluminum is just more fun to drive even though it has been slightly slower for me in the 1/4 mile.

5th/6th port. I've set up four 84-85 6pt 13B's. I pull the lower manifold, remove and toss the sleeves/actuating hardware and clean up the lower manifold with an air grinder. Three of the cars could spin the tires in first gear without the use of the clutch. The fourth car (Spitfire) could do it in second gear!

I guess I need to clarify that in each case I removed the stock EGI in favor of a carb. Also notice that the Racing Beat Holley 6pt manifold does not have valves in it!

I do also autocross my car. Traction is the problem, not low end power. I'm going to run the 555r's next time.

dvcn

I need to clarify- I have also run full race (unsprung puck), street/strip and centerforce clutch/pressure plates. Just suggesting that you use what you need. If the clutch isn't slipping, then why upgrade it to something that is difficult to drive and abuses the drivetrain? I ran the puck clutch on the street until it destroyed the flywheel face and I snapped an input shaft on a trans shifting into second gear (10" street slicks on a RX-3).

I don't like the centerforce due to the varying pedal feel, high cost and occasional failure. If you have to upgrade, the Racing Beat clutch/pp's work great and seem to be less expensive than most of the competition.

adssoccer

what do you guys think about this setup. . .
full racing beat exhaust, stock lower intake manifold with actuators still working, and a sidedraft weber or dellorto up top.
of course, i wont be getting to the carb for a while, im still scrounging up the money for the exhaust. i'll probably do a full exhaust, cone filter with stock egi, then do some more suspension upgrades before i get to the carb because, like you said, traction's more important in autox, and that's what this car's for!

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Check your Tranny Mount. They are notorious for dislodging the rubber from the metal, yet staying in place. You don't normally think it's bad, because when you look, everything looks fine.

When you take it down, then it falls apart in your hands.

RESULT: annoying vibration.

Manntis

once again, DirectFreak, thanks