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Ok confirmed I installed fuel injection lines but it still cracked. Also found a soft spot which makes me think it was damaged prior to install.
Installed the new lines and it fired right up! As I topped off the coolant from it spilling during the intake removal, the idle sunk and sputtered to a halt. Checked the fuel lines and everything was dry. Maybe the idle was too low?
I'm going to give it till tomorrow and see if there are any new smells/leaks. Maybe since it broke overnight, it'll heal itself overnight?!?
Well maybe the concept of self healing does exist? It fired right up after sitting all night but had issues idling. If I slightly held the throttle, it would idle but struggled like a misfire and sputtered.
Adjusted the idle screw so it rested at 1400rpm and it stalled after 30 sec. Ok strange...
Tried to start again and wouldn't fire unless I gave it throttle. Gave it a few revs and then it was all better. Adjusted the idle back down to 900 rpm and it's rock solid.
Only last strange thing is as I backed it out of the garage, it sputtered to a stop. It started back up and has been fine since. Freeway blast and lots of stop/starts, idle always solid.
True test is will it get me to cars and coffee on Saturday?!!?
Put another 200 miles on it since my last post. Idling has given me some trouble lately. If I set it at a steady 1000rpm it'll hold fine, but after driving and coming to a stop the idle sags to less than 500 and stalls.
I noticed if I blip the throttle as I'm coming to a stop, it maintains the idle fine.
Is there any return to idle adjustments I can do to solve this?
There's a Dashpot mushroom-looking thing on the left side of the Throttle Body who's job it is to prevent the butterflies from closing too quickly. The only adjustment there is to limit the point at which it is engaged by the lever on the main throttle rod, in effect this is what will delay the return to idle speed. More than likely, that Dashpot is fine and your problem is really that you have carbon build-up in the Throttle Body that's restricting airflow past the butterfly valves, which shuts off airflow into the engine and forces the Bypass Air Control valve to kick in with a half-hearted attempt to bump the throttle up and keep the engine running. It only succeeds occasionally, and the engine dies.
Remove the Throttle Body from the DEI Chamber and you should be able to visualize the problem. If nothing else, you'll want to remove the BACV from the DS of the DEI chamber and give it a good cleaning, too. These tend to get carboned up as well and can result in poor idle conditions as it opens and closes, as controlled by the Vent and Vacuum Solenoid Valves directly below it and mounted to the center housing, aka 'Rat's Nest'.
05-08-18, 11:12 PM
