ok i just helped my buddy remove the rats nest on his se the car ran good for about an hour now it keeps flooding, i pulled the fuel pump relay cranked and it started now its flooding so quick it will not start, rotor heads help me out please

 

Umm... The GSL-SE will not run without the rats nest. Its not carbed, so the computer reads all the sensors, and test the injectors what to do, if you removed the rats nest, its no question your going to have problems. I'd just install everything back the way it was, and hope it runs. If you want more power get a K&N filter, and a exhuast, easiest way to get power out of a GSL-SE.

 

i'll kinda second that. all the emissions solenoids arent on the "rats nest", the "rats nest" is the idle and fuel pressure controls.

 

Ditto, have him turn on the ignition and you're gonna hear the injectors firing without even turning it over I bet.

 

I don't exactly agree. Although I recommend leaving the rats nest on the SE, there isn't anything there that would keep it from running. The solenoids include:

1. vacuum advace (green)
2. fuel pressure regulator solenoid (bumps fuel pressure during hot starts) (orange)
3. vent/vac solenoids (controls the BAC, just gives stable 800 rpm under different engine loads)

There are a pair of solenoids on the firewall, but those are just for the ACV. The biggest problem removing this stuff (if done correctly) would be possible vacuum leaks if you didn't get everything capped off.

My bet is the cooltant temp sensor on the back of the water pump got unplugged. If this is unplugged, the ECU with think the engine is super cold and really crank up the amount of fuel (i.e. fllood like mad). Check that out.

 

1984-1991 N/A fuel injected RX-7s will run without the emissions rats nest so put and end to that.

 

I already know for sure that an se will run without the rats nest because mine runs fine, as for my buddies it also now does i kinda wish i would have checked my thread sooner because gsl-se addict was correct, the sensor on the back of the water pump had gotten brittle enough to break most of the way off, we replaced the sensor and now she runs like a dream thanks for the help everyone im off to go start on my interior

 

Good deal. I had a bad connection on that thing too once. Same kind of problem. Glad to hear that you got her going.

 

i romoved my rats nest and now i have bad gas mileage

 

really bad

 

Like the man already said, check your temp sensor. If the motor thinks that it is cold, it will crank up the fuel mixture. Does your exhaust make your eyes water and smell like raw fuel?

 

Kentetsu is right I had the same problem of having really bad gas mileage and the smell of raw fuel, and after replacing the temp sensor, all went smooth.

 

One of the first things some guys do when they buy an SE is change the coolant temp sensor-----ask RX-7 Doctor. They are known to either corrode or just wear out and cause rough idling problems, flooding etc. Another good thing to do to obtain a super smooth idle is to change the O2 sensor as well.

Mike

 

Are there any HP gains from removing the rats nest on the SE?

 

No, there isn't. Really no gains on the 12A either. Just makes things a bit cleaner. You might have to bump up your idle too when you do it so that the engine doesn't stall when you increase load on the engine at idle (P/S, A/C on, higher load from alt, etc).

 

Wow, there's a lot of misinformation here. The 02 sensor is only used in 5th gear. Not idle, not 1-4, and won't influence your mixture at idle. The temp sensor on the back of the water pump only tells the ECU when it's safe to go into closed-loop (use the 02 sensor) and doesn't affect your mixture. That's done with the Intake Air Temp sensor that's integrated into your AFM. Changing the 02 sensor, coolant temp ECU sender (water pump), coolant temp gauge sender (driver's-side rear iron), etc are all good practice, but won't affect your idle mixture. If the thermistor in the AFM checks out and you don't have vacuum leaks or other problems, the mixture is adjusted with the R/L screw by the airbox, but shouldn't need adjustment unless you've swapped the AFM, as it's used to fine-tune the mixture signal from the deflection of the AFM door.

 

True on the o2 sensor. Not true on the coolant temp sensor. Try disconnecting it sometime. The car will be hard to start and will flood almost instantly. It is also the 3rd thing to check for a hard start/no start condition in the FSM (after checking for spark and injector operation).