FB_Noah

Hello all, I have a 1984 gsl se, pretty bone stock. k&n drop in filter, ngk plugs, no smog pump, and aftermarket exhaust (owner before me) so no sixth port actuation. the car wont start on the key (cranks no start) unless you squirt some starting fluid down the afm. tps is adjusted. double and triple checked timing. fuel filter only has like 600 miles on it. im 90% sure vacuum switching valves all work. couldnt really verify vacuum advance on dizzy. if i let it idle until its warm itll either choke itself with fuel or idle so low it dies. driving it will eventually clear the rich condition, so long as im driving it in spirited fashion. i have no idea where to go with this at the moment. where should the coolant gauge needle sit when at op temp? idle screw all the way adjusted out, and idle mixture also set on the lean side. engine only has 608 miles on it. help lol everyone keeps saying switch to carb but i want to resurrect the egi system. thanks in advance. ive tried to search, but i havent really found what im looking for.

LongDuck

Search on my username and "GSL-SE running rich". Read. You say the engine only has 608 miles - is this a fresh rebuild? There's a lot more to this story than you've explained so far. Was it running properly before? What else have you done to it?

Do your research and then post back, and I'll try to keep an eye open for it.

FB_Noah

Thankful to see your response! yes its a fresh build from Kurt Robertson Mazda. i put the engine in the car august of 2019 but didnt actually get the engine to fire until april 2021 (had some personal things going on in life preventing my from working on the project). before i put an engine in the car it would start on the key, but every now and then (randomly usually, definitely a condition worsened by cold weather) it would run peg rich. i tried so much until finally the engine took its last breath. i opened the motor up and found something had tumbled throught the engine wedging an apex seal down via damage to the rotor (rotor still sitting on my toolbox at work). i put a new motor in it and have still had issues ever since. recently i put in a gently used emissions harness. i think the fuel pump is going bad, sometimes when im working on it i need to tap the pump to get it going. pump is a walboro i put in when the car initially stopped starting on me before the new engine. is it possible to put the eccentric drive pulley on 90 degrees out? my dizzy is turned fully counterclock wise in order for the car to run with idle timing matched to front cover pin. i ran two wires from egi unit to injector one because i was having issues with injector one firing and not firing. currently: when vehicle gets warm, idle drops so low it stalls unless i feather throttle. if i create a vacuum leak it seems to get better but too much and it surges (as is normal with unmetered air entering past the afm). i just dont even have a direction to go in. it runs rich enough to foul rotor one, causing it to sound like its only running on one rotor; so if i unplug the injector connector on rotor one and continue to let engine run it eventually clears up and will sound like its running on two rotors. i definitely have some reading to do. sounds like an injector issue but im tired of throwing parts at it at this point. i deleted the pulsation dampener, i dont know if that is important information or not. again, thanks in advanced.

FB_Noah

So I did some reading and after work I went to the car (it’s stuck in the customer parking area at my work, I actually work for Mazda) and I decided to mess around with it. For one I think the injector wires were backwards. Two the fast idle cam and throttle it controls were way off. I then did something random - I unplugged the oxygen sensor. The car ran a lot better and I was actually able to get it to idle at around 875 rpm! I’m wondering if I should just do the oxygen sensor and water temp sensor as a combo. The car wasn’t running extremely rich after I unplugged that sensor. Two things I haven’t been able to find through search: where should coolant gauge sit when engine is at operating temp, and is it possible to put eccentric pulley on 90 degrees out.