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Any suggestion on which plug goes on the temp sensor for the gauge? I attached 2 pictures with different plugs which both fit. The copper one or blue plastic one? Also where does the other go?
The corrrect connector is the one you're holding in pic. White connector,wire color should be red/blue tracer. Did you test that tw sensor and find it bad or just replace it?
Posted this earlier,on my phone at the moment. The other wire(yellow-tracer?) with bullet connector,would need a better pic,may go to solenoid rack on keg,can't really see clearly. can look when home tomorrow.
The oil pressure sender(big round thing) is right next to coolant temp sensor,do you have the wire connected to that-i recall you saying you had no working op gauge either.
OK i spent some time looking through the wiring diagrams and found some pictures of the extra plug near the Coolant Temp sensor and Oil pressure sensor.
Anyone know what this goes to (circled in Red)?
Next, I think i found where the O2 sensor should go. Based on this picture, it is on the backside of the throttle body? Anyone have pictures of this connector?
The wire you have circled in red comes out of the harness along with the sender wires for temp & oil press gauges. It goes to a condenser mounted on the rear iron-immediately in front of slave cylinder. In my pic you can see the plug in the middle of harness retainer,the condenser wire plugs into it and goes around behind oil filter and you can partially see the condenser there.
Oxygen sensor connector is green as pictured. Male end as pictured is zip tied to a coolant hose by throttle body,then goes between upper and lower intake manifolds where it joins fuel injector harness at fuel rail and ultimately to ecu. Wire color on male side of connector looks black on my car,sort of remember this wire to be green/yellow tracer? Long time ago,perhaps mine has tuned black from heat/age. Hope this helps.
Haven't been able to track down the O2 sensor wire yet. Just not seeing the wire...
I got it running saturday and was able to drive around town for a bit. Very strong and responsive power and surprisingly torquey.
Got the temp and oil pressure gauges to work after switching the connectors (copper and plastic one for the coolant temp). It was the plastic one by the way! Also the oil temp sensor was fairly dirty so i cleaned it up with some brake cleaner and it oil pressure gauge is all set.
Starts right up when cold but struggles once warm. Almost always floods when warm...Not sure the cause of that? Is that a timing thing? Gone through the de-flooding procedures but still flooded after letting it warm up this morning. Letting it cool down and I will give it another go...so confused...
Recall back a couple posts where i responded to your description of "flooding" & directed you to tee a gauge into the system to see what fuel pressure is(compare to spec in fsm)AND...to watch the gauge on shutdown to see if/how long system held pressure?. Need to do that! You say it floods,pulling plugs,are they wet? Have you actually put a timing light on engine and adjusted ignition timing? If so,not the timing,it won't change unless you change it. If not,do it and cross that off your list of suspects.
The engine should start cold and warm with just turning key,no throttle,normal to crank 2-3 revolutions,start and settle at a warm idle of about 800 rpm.
Repetitive flooding(if that is what is happening) is not good for a new engine-or an older one for that matter.
You're chasing your tail here... work thru each system and prove it's not responsible for your problem before you move on to the next thing. Any other way is hit and miss-a guess and confusion. Letting car cool down and trying it again is not going to determine cause of problem.
You need three things for an any ic engine to start and run, fuel,spark,compression. It may be flooding,that could be an ignition breakdown of some sort-no spark=flooding symptoms. Igniters in these car get temperamental about heat and can cause funky starting driveability issues-to rule this out-if it won't restart when it's warm-don't keep cranking it,pull a leading plug wire,stick another known good spark plug in the wire(don't pull the plugs out of engine)and lay the plug on the engine for a ground and have someone crank the engine over while you watch for spark from the plug-have spark,not ignition system. Thats 1/3rd of the way to diagnosing what problem is.
Next..compression,assume(don't like to,but if don't have compression gauge...) you have even compression from your comments about how it drives. That leaves fuel,too much or not enough-you have to determine that. Post back if need more help. Happy Hunting...
Ok for the no start once warm issue, it was suggested i pre-mix for a couple tanks as it sounds like the corner seals were sticking due to me having used housings with new seals. And...that did the trick! Put about 200 miles on it and it starts right up cold or warm.
Now just need to work on the high idle (1200rpms) and occasionally a surging idle. I have this resource and am going through the steps to identify the issues: https://www.nellump.net/peri/solving-gsl-se-idle-problems.html
08-18-17, 04:39 PM
