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(GSL-SE) Block assembled and installed...order to install the rest?
Hi all,
I have my weekend planned to get all of the accessory items installed on my recent rebuild. The engine/trans is installed and the exhaust is all hooked up. I also have the lower intake and oil cooler lines hooked up.
What order should I install the rest (GSL-SE)? Any install tips to make it easier? I am thinking the following:
OMP
Fuel Injectors
Air Pump
Power steering
AC
Radiator
Distributor
ALT
Upper intake/throttle body/airbox
Have followed this thread,considering what happened previously to the engine-get that engine closed up!! Injectors,fuel line,upper intake,throttle body-stuff a rag in throttle body while putting all other auxiliary stuff back on engine til ready to hook up air intake hose to throttle body. Double check air filter box/airflow meter to be certain there are no foreign objects.
look in the FSM, they actually have an order they want you to install stuff in, that being said the GSL-SE isnt that hard, so its not really that big of a deal.
Alright I have everything but the AC and Power steering. I realized I had to remove the oil cooling line to get the AC mount on but now am confused how to get the Power steering mounted up. Where does the mount go as the studs are too short?
Just kidding...The guy i bought the car from originally included some TII parts. I was trying to install both the TTI power steering mount and the FB. So it was actually impossible to do.
Fired it up late last night and idled nice and smooth for 10 secs or so with a bill cloud of smoke. I will give it another go later today! So close!
This morning its flooded and won't sputter. I went through the deflooding processes twice now and it still won't go. Even tried a small shot of starter fluid and it won't kick.
Wonder if the timing is off? Strange it ran so well last night and then this morning...nothing.
Don't panic... timing would not physically change between last night and today. What likely happened was YOU flooded the engine by starting it and shutting it off after 10 seconds or so. This is normal behavior for a fuel injected rotary,more so when it's cold outside. Rotary engines need a LOT of fuel to start cold and must be run long enough to warm up before shutting them off and restarting. If you do shut off the engine before it warms sufficiently,the ecu assumes it's still cold and will inject same quantity of fuel as on initial startup flooding engine. This can happen very easily to a broken in engine on a car driven every day,new engine no different. If you're previously aware of this,disregard. Using starting fluid/ether on any rotary is a no no. While it could help it to start,there is no lubrication in it. If the engine is already or has been flooded there's no point in using it. The engine being flooded has had all its lubricant washed off rotor housings,using ether just insures that.
Take plugs out,clean and dry them,disconnect one side of underhood fuse link for injectors/ecu to disable spark & fuel. With throttle wide open,crank over with starter til no more fuel mist comes out of plug holes.
Premix would be good,you can use engine oil &turkey baster? to inject @20cc of oil into leading spark plug holes and turn engine thru several times by hand to distribute oil around rotor housings. Put plugs back in,reattach fuselink and start car. Make sure oil and coolant are full as you'll want to fully warm engine before you turn it off . Monitor oil press.and temp gauges while running and if either is not "normal" shut it down. You may have to repeat deflood/lube process couple times for it to start and stay running,may have to assist with gas pedal til clears out and will run on its own. You're lubing the housings to prevent metal on metal contact on initial startup. If it won't start and stay running after this,may want to recheck your work to be sure everything is installed properly.
May want to alert your neighbors of what you're doing so they don't call the fire dept. Good luck.
Thanks for some trouble shooting ideas. I guess to clarify I didn't shut it off, rather it died after 10 seconds. It ran fairly smooth for a short period but eventually sputtered to a stop.
Ok got it running and let it idle for about an hour last night till the smoke slowed down. Have a decent exhaust leak off the header so I'll crawl under there and fix that.
The timing was definitely off as I followed the thread : https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/ignition-how-find-tdc-661311/
And locked in timing using this method but it just wouldn't fire. Spent a good hour moving the distributer a tooth at a time till it fired up. It idled down to about 1000rpm once warmed up with great throttle response. Now I need to see if it'll start again today once cooled off.
Few lingering issues left: grounded out oil pressure gauge and no temp gauge. Both are hooked up but nothing on the gauges?
Just fired it up after letting it sit for a couple days. Fired right up and idled around 2k no smoke. Let it idle and gave it a few revs over 20 mins or so. Idle dropped to 1100rpm and Checked the coolant hose and felt nice and warm.
Turned it off and tried to restart and we are flooded...any thoughts? Did I not let it warm up enough? Any other potential fuel issues? I did replace the pump and filter last year. Does the regulator go bad easily?
Ran more than long enough,are you watching temp gauge,is it up to operating temp? Was it a Mazda pump?Were it me,i'd be teeing in a pressure gauge to fuel feed line at engine. Without starting engine,jump test connector(green near air flow meter) to run fuel pump and pressurize fuel rail and note fuel pressure,record. Disconnect vacuum line from fuel pressure regulator-you did hook that up? Any signs of fuel seeping from vacuum nipple =leaking diaphragm in regulator,look for moisture in vacuum hose. A blown diaphragm will allow fuel to be pulled from regulator into intake manifold,make the engine run rich and after shutdown will dump fuel into engine until all fuel system pressure is bled off=quite a bit of fuel. This could explain your flooded engine on a restart.
If this doesn't reveal anything, pull jumper from connector to shut off pump,fuel pressure should hold within a couple pounds of "running"pressure and hold this for 20 minutes or longer. If it does,fuel system including injectors is tight and "flooding"is being caused by something else. If pressure drops off immediately, run pump up to pressure again,pinch off fuel return hose and pull jumper again,pressure on gauge should be quite a bit higher as you are deadheading system & should hold system pressure. If so,pressure regulator is faulty.
If system drops pressure while monitoring gauge with return hose pinched,could be leaky injector(s). This is most straightforward method to check fuel system and eliminate possibility of internal leak. Are you certain you have spark,leading & trailing? Are both plugs in each rotor housing wet with fuel? Post back findings,i'll look in on thread later and give you more direction depending on your test results.
Fuel pump was not Mazda so I will grab a fuel pressure gauge and "T" that in. I know it had trouble running and disconnecting the sending fuel line and reconnecting helped with it starting. Flow was good so the pump is working but as you suggested might have other issues with the regulator.
Not sure what you mean about disconnecting and reconnecting sending line- fuel supply hose? Do you have pressure and return hoses hooked to the engine correctly? Fuel injection uses its own sensor,it's in the back of water pump housing. Make sure you reconnected it on assembly. The connector is similar to injector connectors,you know how they fare with age. The fsm gives specs for ohm readings at different coolant temperatures. I would look into this after you rule out physical problems in fuel system. The coolant sensor is major contributor for Ecu determining injection quantity based on coolant temp. Not a lecture but functioning temp gauge is crucial on any rotary,more so on a fresh engine. Running a rotary too hot/overheating it is fastest way to turn it into a boat anchor. Put some time into figuring out why gauge doesn't work. Temp gauge uses its own sender unit,fsm details fault tracing. 1st make sure like FI coolant sensor you reconnected on reassembly.
Ok the temp sensor clip is fairly beat up and it's staying secure so I'll get that replaced next.
Any suggestions on the sensor (plug in the back of the water pump housing) itself? Should I replace it at the same time?
Next issue I found was the O2 sensor isn't hooked up. I did find these schematics but can't seem to find what it's supposed to connect to. Where is the "Sensor Check Connector"? On the basic diagram it looks to be at the end of the fuel injector connectors wire group but I don't see any extra wires.
Also it fired right up when it was cold and idled at 2k and eventually settled at 1100 rpm. Minimal smoke but exhaust smells rich (obviously from no O2 sensor or coolant temp sensor).
Ecu doesn't use input from O2 at idling speed,cold or hot. This is called open loop. The car is in closed loop when warm,underway and transmission is in 5th gear. A switch in trans tells ecu car is in top gear,at that point it uses O2 for fuel trim. You can discount the O2 as cause for overrichness. Have you actually set the timing with a timing light? Idle rpm should be 800,idle hanging at 1100 is something to be investigated. So is proper TPS adjustment.
If going to trouble of replacing TW sensor connector,put an ohmeter on it while engine is cold and compare reading to that of coolant,use a thermometer. When engine fully warm,check the reading again and compare to specs in fsm.
Will try to get a pic of O2 sensor connector later today.
Timing has been set going one tooth at a time till it ran smoothly. The pulley was not installed with TDC marked so I used the wire in the spark plug hole to find TDC and adjusted from there.
We are planning to set timing with a light today once the coolant temp issue is corrected.
As for the O2 sensor, I have it connected to the green connector but the end of that is just a since wire leading to nowhere.
Ok so I did some reading and is this the coolant temp sensor in the side of the block. There's one that looks to be Cooper and other a clear blue plastic. Do you know which one should be connected?
Also replaced the sensor on the back of the water pump housing. The connector was broken and barely hanging on.
The corrrect connector is the one you're holding in pic. White connector,wire color should be red/blue tracer. Did you test that tw sensor and find it bad or just replace it?
I just replaced the sensor and connector as it was affordable to do so.
Just so I understand, the plug on the water pump housing operates for the ECU for fuel and the temp sensor next to the oil filter is the coolant temp gauge correct?
08-04-17, 10:58 AM
