Ok, the actuators are stuck on my 84 se, I wired them open and when I tried to start the car, it flooded like mad. Whats up with that? Any info on either wiring them open or how to make them work would be great.

 

having wired them open shouldn't affect how your car starts. Im pretty sure the flooding is a totally different problem.

 

well, it fired up fine just before I opened them. What would cause flooding all of the sudden? Nice body kit by the way, I have the same one.

 

I'm rebuilding my intake now, and I found that the small air tube which divies up the air to the two actuators was plugged at one end, thus I'm pretty confident I was running a 5 port or probably more like a 4 1/2 port

You might check into that.

Right on.

 

Someone PULEEZZEE post a pic of these actuators so I'll know what I'm looking at under my hood!
Thanks in advance..

 

I got what'cha need right here baby....

Check out all four pages and let me know if you see em.

Right on.

 

Yep! One of them anyway, there are two? Wherebouts should I look to see both on my engine? Found one on the passenger side next to the manifold.

 

Having never looked under the hood of an -SE specifically looking for the actuators and only assuming where they are, I would say the other one is in close proximity. One os on the "front" of the engine, and one is on the "back". So, after finding one, the other should be on the other "end" on the engine...Let me see if I can find a picture...

~T.J.

 

Ok, found a picture. Granted its a carbed setup, but the actuators are still in place. It should at least give you an idea of where to look. I think I found this in an old RB catalog that someone had put online or something. Its kinda cool to look at with the old RB Dellorto intake and everything, ya know?

~T.J.

EDIT: Stupid forum wouldnt let me upload it here...I had to upload it on CarDomain.

 

I'll take a look tonight, I found the rear one.

Thanks for the pic, it's a big help!
Am I to assume if I can move the linkage easily, things should be ok?

 

Well, yeah, maybe....the linkage can move but your sleeves may not be moving....or in my case the air tube that distributes the air had rust in it. I could blow in one end and only hear air coming out of one of the two holes.

right on.

 

Hmm..I know others wire them open with no problems other than a slight loss in low-end torque.

Maybe by opening them at low rpms, more fuel is being thrown at the additional air that's coming in and it's flooding easily.

Does your car still idle properly?

F-

 

Hey BM, nice job taking the engine bay pics. Keep up the good work cleaning her up!

 

It idled and ran great till I opened those damn things up. Then it flooded when I tried to start it. Have not been back out to work on it yet. I also have a rb header, pre-silencer, and dynomax muffler(came with car) It seems to be pretty free flow. I have also heard that the actuators run off of exhaust back pressure. Is it possible that my exhaust might be too free flow and they dont open anyway? And how might I find out if that is the case?

 

Are you running with stock fuel injection?

If the actuators are all the way open, you'll be letting in more air. The engine then would be giving you enough fuel to run the car at over 3,500 RPM under load (as opposed to just sitting there). EGI computers can be fussy that way; change perameters and they get cunfused.

I know some people wire their actuators open, but this might be contributing to the problem.

 

is there any way to make the actuators work besides using exhaust back pressure??

 

Yes... either by an air pump mod or a separate electric air pump activated by an aftermarket computer or simpler device.

 

Are the sleeves just inside or underneath the acuators?
Found both actuators, thanks brownmound!! Now to find the sleeves..

 

No problem...because of you I have one of these sleek $20 Rat Shack antenna replacements waiting to go in my car after painting....that's the beauty of this forum.

The sleeves are in the block....you have to remove the lower intake manifold to get to them....my site is not really a how to, just a documentation and an aid...but check out the second to last pic on this page:

http://www.godofredo.com/mound/2-9-03.html

shows me pulling one of sleeves out with pliers.

right on.

(austin is FREAKING OUT because of an ice storm today)

 

You''ll like the antenna, just installed one on the SE.

I saw the pic of the sleeve, don't know if I'm comfortable getting into the guts that far. There's a 2nd gen rotary guru about an hour from here, might have him check it out. If I do, I'd like to have the pineapple sleeves ready to install.

 

Yeah, really everything is pretty straightforward, you just have to take the plunge....I was in your place once but I just decided to go for it....I guess the real test will be when I try to put it back together!

I think Pineapple sends the inserts now so you can install them yourself. Rob said he wasn't getting enough cores returned....or you can do like I did and send them in and have him put them in.

Right on.

 

Not meaning to bud in this thread but... can anyone tell me what sort of improvement these racing sleeves provide? Is it measurable and how much does it cost for the new sleeves if you were to install youself - thanks

 

Well since you have a RB pre-silencer then you should have the pick-up tube for opening the actuators...but in you're case they're stuck. If this is the case your additional intake ports aren't opening you may want to take the actuators off and clean them.

F-

 

Sleeves are $52.85 to your door....gains are about 6-8 hp, nominal but significant in the grand scheme of things.

Right on.

 

6-8hp??? If that's true.. I'll be cleaning my lower intake and yanking the sleeves out and sending them to Pineapple!