Okay, first let me say alot of what I'm asking IS probably in the archives "SOMEWHERE", but after reading and searching through hours of posts, The few I found of use either had conflicting info, or died off before the questions were answered. Most "SWAP" threades are for T2 or S4 13b's as well. So I'll happilly take any definative answers OR links to them.

I have an 84 GS w/GSL-SE suspension swapped in. I have a GSL-SE motor/tranny/ecu/exhaust on the way. I'm wanting to swap my street ported 12a out and put in this. I'm finding that some say you have to pull the dash and swap the wiring and others say you don't need to pull the dash. Most of the threads are talking about doing this in an 83 or earlier FB. Since the 84 had the 13b as an option, is it easier to do? Is the harness pre wired for either? Since I have the ecu coming with it, staying FI would be cool. I don't want to deal with a wiring nightmare though, so just in case, I also have a 48 Dellorto and RB uim. So, I can carb it instead, but I also can't find a thread that details what all is removeable if you go carbed. If I carb it, I'll want to take all emmissions and any unnecessary stuff off. Thanks for any/all help.

 

ive never actually done the swap, but having had both cars apart, the place you need to look in the FSM is the x14/x15 connectors.

basically the gsl-se engine/wiring/ecu is almost self contained, there is just a plug on the engine harness for power/ground/tach signal/ and some other stuff

i doubt its a plug in from a 12a car, but its probably close

 

i just did the swap in an 85 GS. i have detailed pics in this thread:

https://www.rx7club.com/build-threads-293/85-l6-gs-se-project-restoration-822222/

there is a link on the first post in that thread to the process. i provided detailed pics.

the dash MUST come because you will need to run the SE harness and it snakes behind the dash and out both sides of the firewall. you will need the following parts to run a complete SE engine swap(there may be a few ore i'm forgetting but here's what i can remember):

-a COMPLETE GSL-SE wiring harness to perform the EGI swap
-an SE fuel tank with pickup, SE fuel pump and carrier and fuel filter bracket and filter hard lines
-SE small hard line connecting to the flter
-you will need to make your own fuel line from the filter to the engine bay. i used 3/8" aluminum line
-right side radiator bracket(has hole to accomodate air inlet duct
-air box and maf
-variable resistor
-SE oil cooler and lines
-plastic intake duct ahead of the radiator
-choke fill plug for dash and firewall grommet for same

 

Mazdaverrx713b- On your list of things, I should be getting all of that except the fuel tank and hard lines. Though I'm not sure if I'll have the "entire" wiring harness, or just the right side with the ecu. I'll have to get or make my rad cover piece, but that's not a problem. I will make my own fuel lines, but may have to figure out something with the tank. But I'm rambling here..... What I wanted to ask you was, what runs under the dash aside from the ECU harness, that you have to replace the harness on the drivers side? The instrument cluster should work with either and I have already swapped a second gen fuseblock into my car, so could I simply wire in what is remaining? Or is there some reason the harness on that side MUST be swapped? I think you did an awsome job on your's, but I have no desire to have to tear the car apart that far to do this. I'd like to keep the fuel injection but ....... If pulling the dash is the only way to keep the EGI, I'll have to plug the injectors and go carbed. Also, I don't recall, but did you have the SE crossmember or did you use the RB front mount, or mod your own?

 

put the dell on it.

 

It looks like the dell will be a lot easier. Do you plan on street porting the 13B? It seems like the street ported 12a will make about the same power as a 13b. It can't be that much different. A big street ported 13b with a dell should make good power though. Add some goodies like a light flywheel and header and you'll be in business.

 

the dash must be pulled because the entire harness muct be replaced. the reason is because the 12A harness does not have the wiring for the SE's EGI relays and the oil pressure sender/coolant temp sender. the engine harness that connects to the ecu is seperate from the main harness that i'm describing. pulling the dash is about a 2-3 hour job. its actually pretty simple. you can have the dash out and reinstalled with the new wiring in place and ready to go in a day. i did not modify my 12A's crossmember and engine mounts. i did slot out the front metal mount (that mounts to the two engine mounts and bolts to the front cover). save the money if you like grinding and own a dremel. i did mine with a drill and a file..pita...i'd keep the EGI setup. its very worth it. its super reliable and extremely smooth. i enjoy the car so much more with the 13B with EGI.

 

you will also need (which slipped my mind earlier):
-SE throttle cable
-SE relays (they bolt behind the left strut tower)

and the main harness which i'm suggesting to replace will also run to the rear of the car..you can use your 12A's rear harness as its the same as the SE's. there is a connector under the driver's side storage bin that seperated the front and rear harness and you can plug the SE's harness into your existing harness.

 

+1, in these cars the dash comes out complete, in like what 13 bolts?

if you're really lazy, even the radio and gauge cluster stays in the dash.

i don't really know but i don't think any other car is like this

 

rx-7ames- I'm actually quite happy with the performance of my SP 12a, The guy that did my porting learned with Judge Ito and uses his template. So the porting is top notch and the motor is VERY strong. I actually have it's twin being built too. My only issue with the motor is MY location, I do 99% of my driving in lower gears and up hilly windy roads, so the one drawback on a large sp being the low end suffers some, also happens to be what I use most. The 13b has a better low end, and should be more suited to my daily driving habits.

mazdaverx713b- Thanks for the info! I'm kinda bummed though. I'm using my 84 as the learning curve for dropping the same setup into my 280Z, which means that The 13b280z is going to be a bigger PIA than I'd hoped. On that I won't be able to utilize the 7's wiring harness, just the ecu harness. So I was hoping there was just a sensor or two, or something similar, on the drivers side harness which could just be wired into the existing harness. Guess I'll just have to go carbed on the Z, or keep the L28 in it.

j9fd3s- I attempted the dash pull in the 85 I had, once you've done it or maybe just seen it done, it may be fairly simple, but it was a total PIA on that one. I finally gave up and figured a different way to do what I was doing to it. Laziness doesn't even enter the equasion, more a matter of time and location. This is my DD and I need to be able to do all this within a reasonable amount of time, and I have no help available, so the less tearing apart, the better.

 

If you can still get parts off of the SE donor car, pull the engine cradle. That's what's different between the 12A/13Bs. You will also need the fuel tank and fuel supply/return lines, pump, filter, etc.

 

Don't forget to grab the airbox brackets that bolt to the fender and radiator support, as well as the fancy SE coolant bottle and bracket.

 

Ok, so this sounds like it would be a royal PIA to do on my 280Z, So on that one I'll go carbed for sure. Is there any reason that you couldn't use the injector ports on a carb setup to deliver oil from the omp? Seems like it would be a relatively easy mod, and would lubricate more directly to the seals.

 

i remember learning about it too, pulling the dash is WAY easier and simpler than you'd expect.

you pop off the defroster grilles, and there are 3 bolts. there are covers on each side, 2 more bolts each. 2 more covers on the side of the radio, 4 more bolts. steering column unbolts and out it comes...

i think ideally i'd pull it out like friday night, so you have saturday to do whatever under there

 

The RX-8 only delivers oil to the rotor housings, and they've found that when you directly apply the oil it stays localized. The oil doesn't spread around the housing. You're likely better off blocking those off with a pair of 16.4mm freeze plugs, and running the OMP oil into the float bowl of the carb. There, you're guaranteed to get even oil distribution.

 

Thanks Crit, ideas and theory don't always translate to actuality well. I liked the idea, but wasn't sure how well it would translate.