GSL-SE 13B questions
#1
GSL-SE 13B questions
Okay, first let me say alot of what I'm asking IS probably in the archives "SOMEWHERE", but after reading and searching through hours of posts, The few I found of use either had conflicting info, or died off before the questions were answered. Most "SWAP" threades are for T2 or S4 13b's as well. So I'll happilly take any definative answers OR links to them.
I have an 84 GS w/GSL-SE suspension swapped in. I have a GSL-SE motor/tranny/ecu/exhaust on the way. I'm wanting to swap my street ported 12a out and put in this. I'm finding that some say you have to pull the dash and swap the wiring and others say you don't need to pull the dash. Most of the threads are talking about doing this in an 83 or earlier FB. Since the 84 had the 13b as an option, is it easier to do? Is the harness pre wired for either? Since I have the ecu coming with it, staying FI would be cool. I don't want to deal with a wiring nightmare though, so just in case, I also have a 48 Dellorto and RB uim. So, I can carb it instead, but I also can't find a thread that details what all is removeable if you go carbed. If I carb it, I'll want to take all emmissions and any unnecessary stuff off. Thanks for any/all help.
I have an 84 GS w/GSL-SE suspension swapped in. I have a GSL-SE motor/tranny/ecu/exhaust on the way. I'm wanting to swap my street ported 12a out and put in this. I'm finding that some say you have to pull the dash and swap the wiring and others say you don't need to pull the dash. Most of the threads are talking about doing this in an 83 or earlier FB. Since the 84 had the 13b as an option, is it easier to do? Is the harness pre wired for either? Since I have the ecu coming with it, staying FI would be cool. I don't want to deal with a wiring nightmare though, so just in case, I also have a 48 Dellorto and RB uim. So, I can carb it instead, but I also can't find a thread that details what all is removeable if you go carbed. If I carb it, I'll want to take all emmissions and any unnecessary stuff off. Thanks for any/all help.
#2
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,826
Received 2,594 Likes
on
1,842 Posts
ive never actually done the swap, but having had both cars apart, the place you need to look in the FSM is the x14/x15 connectors.
basically the gsl-se engine/wiring/ecu is almost self contained, there is just a plug on the engine harness for power/ground/tach signal/ and some other stuff
i doubt its a plug in from a 12a car, but its probably close
basically the gsl-se engine/wiring/ecu is almost self contained, there is just a plug on the engine harness for power/ground/tach signal/ and some other stuff
i doubt its a plug in from a 12a car, but its probably close
#3
Have RX-7, will restore
iTrader: (91)
i just did the swap in an 85 GS. i have detailed pics in this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/build-threads-293/85-l6-gs-se-project-restoration-822222/
there is a link on the first post in that thread to the process. i provided detailed pics.
the dash MUST come because you will need to run the SE harness and it snakes behind the dash and out both sides of the firewall. you will need the following parts to run a complete SE engine swap(there may be a few ore i'm forgetting but here's what i can remember):
-a COMPLETE GSL-SE wiring harness to perform the EGI swap
-an SE fuel tank with pickup, SE fuel pump and carrier and fuel filter bracket and filter hard lines
-SE small hard line connecting to the flter
-you will need to make your own fuel line from the filter to the engine bay. i used 3/8" aluminum line
-right side radiator bracket(has hole to accomodate air inlet duct
-air box and maf
-variable resistor
-SE oil cooler and lines
-plastic intake duct ahead of the radiator
-choke fill plug for dash and firewall grommet for same
https://www.rx7club.com/build-threads-293/85-l6-gs-se-project-restoration-822222/
there is a link on the first post in that thread to the process. i provided detailed pics.
the dash MUST come because you will need to run the SE harness and it snakes behind the dash and out both sides of the firewall. you will need the following parts to run a complete SE engine swap(there may be a few ore i'm forgetting but here's what i can remember):
-a COMPLETE GSL-SE wiring harness to perform the EGI swap
-an SE fuel tank with pickup, SE fuel pump and carrier and fuel filter bracket and filter hard lines
-SE small hard line connecting to the flter
-you will need to make your own fuel line from the filter to the engine bay. i used 3/8" aluminum line
-right side radiator bracket(has hole to accomodate air inlet duct
-air box and maf
-variable resistor
-SE oil cooler and lines
-plastic intake duct ahead of the radiator
-choke fill plug for dash and firewall grommet for same
#4
Mazdaverrx713b- On your list of things, I should be getting all of that except the fuel tank and hard lines. Though I'm not sure if I'll have the "entire" wiring harness, or just the right side with the ecu. I'll have to get or make my rad cover piece, but that's not a problem. I will make my own fuel lines, but may have to figure out something with the tank. But I'm rambling here..... What I wanted to ask you was, what runs under the dash aside from the ECU harness, that you have to replace the harness on the drivers side? The instrument cluster should work with either and I have already swapped a second gen fuseblock into my car, so could I simply wire in what is remaining? Or is there some reason the harness on that side MUST be swapped? I think you did an awsome job on your's, but I have no desire to have to tear the car apart that far to do this. I'd like to keep the fuel injection but ....... If pulling the dash is the only way to keep the EGI, I'll have to plug the injectors and go carbed. Also, I don't recall, but did you have the SE crossmember or did you use the RB front mount, or mod your own?
#6
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Albany, OR
Posts: 358
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It looks like the dell will be a lot easier. Do you plan on street porting the 13B? It seems like the street ported 12a will make about the same power as a 13b. It can't be that much different. A big street ported 13b with a dell should make good power though. Add some goodies like a light flywheel and header and you'll be in business.
#7
Have RX-7, will restore
iTrader: (91)
Mazdaverrx713b- On your list of things, I should be getting all of that except the fuel tank and hard lines. Though I'm not sure if I'll have the "entire" wiring harness, or just the right side with the ecu. I'll have to get or make my rad cover piece, but that's not a problem. I will make my own fuel lines, but may have to figure out something with the tank. But I'm rambling here..... What I wanted to ask you was, what runs under the dash aside from the ECU harness, that you have to replace the harness on the drivers side? The instrument cluster should work with either and I have already swapped a second gen fuseblock into my car, so could I simply wire in what is remaining? Or is there some reason the harness on that side MUST be swapped? I think you did an awsome job on your's, but I have no desire to have to tear the car apart that far to do this. I'd like to keep the fuel injection but ....... If pulling the dash is the only way to keep the EGI, I'll have to plug the injectors and go carbed. Also, I don't recall, but did you have the SE crossmember or did you use the RB front mount, or mod your own?
Trending Topics
#8
Have RX-7, will restore
iTrader: (91)
you will also need (which slipped my mind earlier):
-SE throttle cable
-SE relays (they bolt behind the left strut tower)
and the main harness which i'm suggesting to replace will also run to the rear of the car..you can use your 12A's rear harness as its the same as the SE's. there is a connector under the driver's side storage bin that seperated the front and rear harness and you can plug the SE's harness into your existing harness.
-SE throttle cable
-SE relays (they bolt behind the left strut tower)
and the main harness which i'm suggesting to replace will also run to the rear of the car..you can use your 12A's rear harness as its the same as the SE's. there is a connector under the driver's side storage bin that seperated the front and rear harness and you can plug the SE's harness into your existing harness.
#9
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,826
Received 2,594 Likes
on
1,842 Posts
if you're really lazy, even the radio and gauge cluster stays in the dash.
i don't really know but i don't think any other car is like this
#10
Thanks for the input guys!
It looks like the dell will be a lot easier. Do you plan on street porting the 13B? It seems like the street ported 12a will make about the same power as a 13b. It can't be that much different. A big street ported 13b with a dell should make good power though. Add some goodies like a light flywheel and header and you'll be in business.
the dash must be pulled because the entire harness muct be replaced. the reason is because the 12A harness does not have the wiring for the SE's EGI relays and the oil pressure sender/coolant temp sender. the engine harness that connects to the ecu is seperate from the main harness that i'm describing. pulling the dash is about a 2-3 hour job. its actually pretty simple. you can have the dash out and reinstalled with the new wiring in place and ready to go in a day. i did not modify my 12A's crossmember and engine mounts. i did slot out the front metal mount (that mounts to the two engine mounts and bolts to the front cover). save the money if you like grinding and own a dremel. i did mine with a drill and a file..pita...i'd keep the EGI setup. its very worth it. its super reliable and extremely smooth. i enjoy the car so much more with the 13B with EGI.
you will also need (which slipped my mind earlier):
-SE throttle cable
-SE relays (they bolt behind the left strut tower)
and the main harness which i'm suggesting to replace will also run to the rear of the car..you can use your 12A's rear harness as its the same as the SE's. there is a connector under the driver's side storage bin that seperated the front and rear harness and you can plug the SE's harness into your existing harness.
-SE throttle cable
-SE relays (they bolt behind the left strut tower)
and the main harness which i'm suggesting to replace will also run to the rear of the car..you can use your 12A's rear harness as its the same as the SE's. there is a connector under the driver's side storage bin that seperated the front and rear harness and you can plug the SE's harness into your existing harness.
#13
Ok, so this sounds like it would be a royal PIA to do on my 280Z, So on that one I'll go carbed for sure. Is there any reason that you couldn't use the injector ports on a carb setup to deliver oil from the omp? Seems like it would be a relatively easy mod, and would lubricate more directly to the seals.
#14
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,826
Received 2,594 Likes
on
1,842 Posts
j9fd3s- I attempted the dash pull in the 85 I had, once you've done it or maybe just seen it done, it may be fairly simple, but it was a total PIA on that one. I finally gave up and figured a different way to do what I was doing to it. Laziness doesn't even enter the equasion, more a matter of time and location. This is my DD and I need to be able to do all this within a reasonable amount of time, and I have no help available, so the less tearing apart, the better.
you pop off the defroster grilles, and there are 3 bolts. there are covers on each side, 2 more bolts each. 2 more covers on the side of the radio, 4 more bolts. steering column unbolts and out it comes...
i think ideally i'd pull it out like friday night, so you have saturday to do whatever under there
#15
No distributor? No thanks
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Outskirts of Road Atlanta
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
4 Posts
Ok, so this sounds like it would be a royal PIA to do on my 280Z, So on that one I'll go carbed for sure. Is there any reason that you couldn't use the injector ports on a carb setup to deliver oil from the omp? Seems like it would be a relatively easy mod, and would lubricate more directly to the seals.