1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Groaning noise after new brake pad installation

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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 09:44 AM
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Groaning noise after new brake pad installation

Hey guys...

I just installed Hawk HPS pads on all four corners. They work great, but just before coming to a stop I get this unbearably loud groaning noise coming from (I believe) the driver's side rear brake.

I plan on pulling the wheel off and rechecking the installation of the pads when I get home from work, but thought I'd see if anyone else has run into this issue or had some idea of what might be causing it.

I'm pretty sure that they were installed correctly, but I know I'm not completely infallible. I used the spring clips, the pads came with shims attached, and I used some goop on the backs of the pads to prevent squeeling issues. I did not have this issue until I installed the new pads.

Any input is appreciated...
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 10:03 AM
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Haven't tried my HPS pads yet, but I'll let you know if I have the same problem. Did you follow the instructions to burnish the pads after install?

I believe it is 6-10 stops from 30-35 MPH with moderate pressure

followed by a few (2-3?) stops from 40-45MPH with higher pressure (stomp on 'em )

Not sure if that will help or not.
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 10:11 AM
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Yeah, I went through the procedure as directed, then went through it again just to be sure. I've been driving on them for a few days now, with numerous "panic" stops to help bed them, but no relief.

Interestingly enough, they don't do it when I first start driving. After a couple of stops, just enough to get me a few blocks from home, they start talking back to me.

During the install, the rear pads were a very tight fit. I really had to work at them to get them on, because they seemed to be just a hair longer than the pads they replaced. But once they were on, they seemed to fit fine. Now I'm wondering if maybe one of the pads is getting hung up, causing only one pad to engage the rotor. I imagine that could maybe result in a high frequency vibration.

If I find anything when I tear into them again, I'll post back with the info. Thanks Kent...
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 10:20 AM
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Interesting. Maybe it is hanging up as you say. The SE rear pads are a bit different, so I'm not sure if I'll have the same issue. Billy accidently sent GSL rear pads to me, but he was quick to fix the problem. Even shipped out the new ones even before I sent back the incorrect ones.

Currently, my idle is really rough. I had an injector that was sticking..thought that I fixed it, but I think it is still hanging up. Sounds like it is running on 1 rotor. Compression, timing, spark, etc. is all good. I'll have to pull that intake again and check out that injector. Once I do, I'll get to try the new suspension and brake goodies.

Good luck. Hope you will find the problem. I'd be interested to also know just in case there is something that might cause the same issue on my car.
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 10:32 AM
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Kent, on the injector problem you're having, if you're in doubt of its abilities, send it to witchchunter performance (www.witchhunter.com). i sent out a set from my 88 10AE and i got them back in five days!! excellent quality of work. car idles so much better and is smoother when taking off.

Kentetsu, remove the rear wheels and inspect the braking components for normal wear. one pad may have cocked itself in the caliper bracket. do you notice one side or the other heating up or smelling of brake dust moreso than the other?
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 10:35 AM
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I've never run Hawks on my RX7 (& I don't think they make shoes for drum rears, anyway ), but I had a similar problem with them both on my 350Z, and on the wife's Maxima. Excellent stopping power, but noisy , and very dusty. Ended up retiring the pads eaarly, after several attempts to get them to quiet down.

Tried the blue sticky goop, tried the silicone lube goop, tried anti-sieze... all to no avail. A switch to high-quality touring pads solved the problem, so I know it wasn't my install or other issues.

I hope you have better luck than I did.
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 10:44 AM
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Dave..it is a weird deal on my injectors. I pulled them while doing my suspension work and got them cleaned. They didn't leak/stick before and the test report after cleaning showed that they didn't leak. I installed them and the front injector went wide open and filled my front runners with gas! I think the prob was in the ECU. Fixed that, but afterwords that injector was stuck partially open (could blow through it). I got it unstuck with some PB Blaster and tried it..still think it is hanging up. One of the 7 guys that I helped with his car is sending me a spare injector, so we'll see if that fixes the prob. Oh, well.. I'll get it solved.
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 11:41 AM
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Seafoam Kent, Seafoam.
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 12:17 PM
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The backing platesd are simply stamped steel. Perhaps a burr or sharp edge is getting hung up on the caliper bracket. Inspection time! Then possibly bench grinder time!

Percent is interested in ?Hawk pads and I need to get a set of some-brand at some point as well. You've made me believe that I should place Hawk pads in the questionable pile. Let us know how the inspection goes.
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Kentetsu
Seafoam Kent, Seafoam.
That was going to be my next approach. I figure that I may try that tonight. I don't have the replacement injector yet, so worth a shot. If that doesn't do it, I'll toss in the new injector once I get it. I will run it through the tank..the tank is low on fuel anyway, so it is a good time to do it.


Hopefully it will be a simple fix on the brakes. I don't remember anyone reporting this before on the Hawks..and I know that a lot of 7 owners use them.
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 12:53 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by Jeff20B
The backing platesd are simply stamped steel. Perhaps a burr or sharp edge is getting hung up on the caliper bracket. Inspection time! Then possibly bench grinder time!

Percent is interested in ?Hawk pads and I need to get a set of some-brand at some point as well. You've made me believe that I should place Hawk pads in the questionable pile. Let us know how the inspection goes.
thats the problem with the internet, it can be too permanent

hawk pads are like way way old school, they eat rotors, dust a lot (its actually not brake pad dust, thats rotor, it'll ruin your wheels) are hard to modulate etc etc

not sure whats out there for the 12a cars, but we've been running cobalt pads, they are easy on rotors, modulate better, stop harder, and after 20hours of the 25 hours of thunderhill, we had 3mm left.
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 01:42 PM
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Good new is, it is now fixed. Bad news is, I cannot say for sure what the problem was. All I did was remove, inspect, and replace the pads.

However, there is a short "pin" on the pad which has to line up with an indentation on the piston. I did not realize this the first time around, and only found out when I was unable to get the caliper back down onto the pad. It may be possible that I had it misaligned the first time around, so the piston was pressing only on that pin, rather than the entire back of the pad.

Just took them for a ride, and they feel great. I haven't raced on them yet, but so far they get a thumbs up from me.

And yes, I have heard some say that they are hard on rotors, and dust a lot. But at the same time I've also heard that they hardly dust at all, and are easy on the rotors. Judging by the amount of metal in the material, I would guess that they are pretty tough on the discs. But I only paid 14 bucks apiece for my rotors (which are performing great by the way), so it won't exactly break the bank if I have to replace them every couple of seasons.

From what I've read, I was expecting them to be pretty noisy too. But they are actually dead silent, even better than the cheap organic pads that they replaced. And I took her up into the triple digits, braked right on the edge of lockup down to about 20 mph, and there was no sign of fade at all. Very impressive.

I actually got these pads for free (thanks Billy) because I won the points championship in the Respeed competition. But even if I'd had to pay for them, I'd still be happy. I'd say give 'em a shot Jeff.
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 05:02 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by Kentetsu
But I only paid 14 bucks apiece for my rotors (which are performing great by the way), so it won't exactly break the bank if I have to replace them every couple of seasons.
you know to inspect these for cracks around the hub area right?

other than that, just keep winning =)
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 10:59 PM
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Has any body else had a problem with these pads? I just installed some on my car and they are doing the same thing, except my do it right after I take of from a stop. When I installed the pads I had to file down the outside rear pads to get them to slide in the holder because they were to tight. How lose are they suspossed to be? Could they still be too tight, they fit snug now.
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 10:45 PM
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I put the Hawk HPS pads on my 85 GSL (the one converted to electric) and had no troubles at all. Dead quiet and I've not noticed any dusting. I get no motor braking on this so the brakes are the only way to slow down. But this is just street use so no idea how they would do for racing.
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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 10:58 AM
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Yeah mine is just for street use as well, just back and forth to work. And its horriable! Its never done it with any other pads either. It could be both the rears but I'm pretty sure its just the left rear.
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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 02:12 PM
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Did you use anti-squeal lube on the back of the pads & tab edges?
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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 02:42 PM
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I'd make a groaning noise Before a new brake pad installation. But I must say pads are easier than shoes. I don't like drum brakes.
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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 07:31 PM
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Drums are easy if you know ONE WEIRD TRICK...
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Old Mar 7, 2014 | 03:43 PM
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Yes I used that grease that comes with the pads. Though its not a sqeal its a more deeper sound. And yeah I find drum brakes easier lol. Though I'm well used to changing shoes on my 70 cutlass which is 4 wheel drum.
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