That line is to build your confidence in thinking that this is an easy fix. Some people would think, "hey he doesn't think this is to bad and I can save money doing it myself."

If you speak with him again, tell him the fix is a very complicated one and should be left to the professionals. Hell, the fact that you say the door doesn't close very well tells me there is a damage all the way up to the door even if you can't see it. Don't jump on his first offer and get at least three estimates to prove you've done your do-diligence.

 

Yeah I only got one estimate so it shouldn't hurt to get more tomorrow. Sorry for the delay I was at work. And now I'm wondering when you said yours was worse and they didn't total it.

 

Here's what "totaled" mine after being rear ended. The damage was completely limited to the rear right quarter panel and I was able to pull it out and with a little bondo make it look like new.

Again, because the car was in very good shape, I argued with the trucker's insurance company that I couldn't replace the car for less than $4000, documented with lots of pictures before and after the accident. They gave me the $4000, plus another $400 for car rental, instead of the blue book of ~$2000. And they let me keep the car, which didn't get a salvage title since it didn't change owners.

Remember, the insurance company needs to give you the replacement cost, not some meaningless "bluebook" value, if there is such a thing for a 30 year old car. You may want to shop around for some FBs in similar condition and quality as yours and offer those estimates to the insurance company as a suggested settlement cost.





Before the accident:




Repaired and painted:

 

I would probably get 4000 for the check. I wonder if it would be better to buy another fb in better condition then to repair mine. I want to repair it for experience but I don't want to dump money into something that might be too much. I really won't know the extent of the process of repairing until I start to take the tailights and bumper off the back. But if I take the tailights out there's no way to put them back on because as soon as I take them out of there spaces they will basically crumble in my hands and I won't be able to drive it without tailights. That would mean I'd need two FB tailights in my hands but I doubt the new ones will want to fit in the damaged spaces. I could beat the metal to its old shape but I don't know how well that will go.

 

If I were you I would get the money, buy another nice FB. Swap bits from the old
one that are better and then part out or sell to the scrapper.

 

If you get $4000, I totally agree on getting another one rather then fixing the current one. It would be cheaper to buy another one because a repair shop would charge the 4g. You might be able to get a non-running one and transplant the engine saving even more.

 

I agree with Tim and KC, if you can get a $4000 check and keep the car, I'd say you did pretty well.

Of course you'd rather just have your old car back, but life is what happens when you're making other plans.

Then take it one step at a time on fixing your car and finding another. If your red car is still legally drivable, at least you have transportation for now.

Take your time and see what comes along for your second RX-7. You usually can get a much better deal when someone else has to sell and you don't have to buy.

Another suggestion, try to get a southern car, not near the ocean. No rust on most of them.

Here's some local craigslist ads here in NE Georgia, to whet your appetite:

1982 Mazda RX-7 classic: Almost 1 owner

1984 Mazda RX7 in Great original condition

 

The big difference there is, that car was an 85 and it got hit in 90 or 91. It was only 4-5 years old at the time. What ever you end up settling for, you'll get a little less if you decide to keep the car (if they total it). I guess you will have to decide if that amount is worth keeping the car or not. I suspect it just might be, even if it's just for parts.

Unless you have a relation or good friend who has some experience at body and fender, I'd suggest not attempting this repair yourself. This isn't a good beginer's type of repair, As others noted, there can be more underlying things that you would never think of that could also be affected.

 

If I get a check, there's a nice 91 fc downstate I'd get.

 

To each his own.




A few years ago I was ridding my Aero 80 and got t-boned by a Volvo. INS totaled my bike and offered me $300. I told them where to stick it, and showed them a current ad off CL of another Aero 80. The listing was asking $1000. So the insurance settled for a grand no questions asked. I got my check bought another Aero body and swaped the engine.

With the current trend in over priced first gens it shouldn't be too hard to find some good specimens for the insurance to think about.



Don't take the first offer. INS will do A LOT to keep from getting dragged into court. It costs lots of money to fight silly little claims like this.



And buy another FB. At least then you'll be able to swap parts.

 

Finally got back from the insurance.
I get $4062.42 if they keep the car.
I get $3636.42 if I take the car, which I will of course.

 

Sounds good Jere, nice work. Now please, don't go and spend it on an FC!

Another FB is what you need.

And for $4000 you can get a really nice one, plus you already have a parts car.

 

I was just throwing out some ideas, although I really do like FC's, but not quiet as much as I like this FB. I bought this for $1950 so I'm making a pretty solid $1600 profit off this whole accident thing (somewhat positive perspective). I'm sure I can get the metal back straight and get a new left taillight assembly. I've cleaned it up a bit since the accident, the right rear side is fine. In fact, I'll go snap a picture real quick.

 

Here's what it looks like now.



...and just a 3/4 shot because it is my favorite view.

 

hmm actually that wouldn't be too hard of a fix. i think you will find that the sheet metal actually wants to come back to normal. maybe not a great beginner fix, but it would be pretty easy.

i had one dented there, and i pulled all the lights out, and just pulled by hand and it was way better

 

I think you're onto something there, keep and fix the red one, it's one fine car.

Put the rest in the bank. Getting rear ended ain't so bad.

 

She's on craigslist now.

1984 Mazda RX-7 GSL

 

IF you're a low mileage driver, this is why you want Classic Car insurance. I have my 85 SE covered for $10,000.

 

True test of a rotorhead.

He puts his mildly damaged GSL on craigslist and hopes to profit from the insurance.

You fail Jere.

And if it don't sell, there's still time for therapy and redemption.

 

A blown apex seal isn't "mildly damaged" for a 18 year old lol

I've had a few offers already offering full price but I turned them down because it seemed they had no idea about this car and the extent of money they need to put into it. I listed everything wrong with the car yet they still ask me haha

 

I'm just messing with you Jere, giving you a hard time from the crazy RX-7 addict point of view!

Even without the blown apex, a good case could be made for retiring the car and getting a fresh start, considering all it's been through.

We're still hoping you stick with the FBs, don't let this streak of bad luck discourage you.

 

Hey, you shouldn't worry about that, buyer beware and besides you are already telling
them all they need to know. Its not like you are hiding things. As long as the buyer is
of legal age, go for it. I can see steering some young 15 year old away but ...