got my new gtech pro competition, see my times with blown clutch!
#26
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Originally posted by mperformance
I need to practice my launch to get to your 1.8s 60ft I'm close @ 2.1s but still I know I can do better...
I need to practice my launch to get to your 1.8s 60ft I'm close @ 2.1s but still I know I can do better...
#27
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Originally posted by RotorMotorDriver
Not to attack you Sorrow, but do you have personal experiance with the new version? Everyone that I read about in that other thread said they were accurate when compared to dyno numbers and track times. I was just thinking that maybe they have changed since you used the older one?
~T.J.
Not to attack you Sorrow, but do you have personal experiance with the new version? Everyone that I read about in that other thread said they were accurate when compared to dyno numbers and track times. I was just thinking that maybe they have changed since you used the older one?
~T.J.
#28
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Actually Sorrow makes a great point. I agree that it is better to go to a dyno...but I got none close by. About the calibration errors YES it's possible to really screw up readings, I got a 13.99 the first time I was learning how to use it. Calibration is important and needs to be done properly.
Hey guess what, finally my clutch gave way, last night. But it's interesting to note that without doing the runs I would not know. My car went slower from a 15.1 (best) to a 17.1 constant last night....I got to shift into 4th way before the end of the 1/4 mile mark...which means that it's slipping and letting my revs go up before time. The graph rpm vs time shows the drivetrain problem.
JJbrozak -- with a semi good clutch (before it really broke) I mananged to pull a 15.1 1/4 mile, the tires I'm using are not drag tires but are somewhat sticky, I'm planning on circuit racing in two months so I'm using proxes ra1s.
I want to try some BFgoodrich drag radials to see if I can pull some 1.xx 0-60'
Hey guess what, finally my clutch gave way, last night. But it's interesting to note that without doing the runs I would not know. My car went slower from a 15.1 (best) to a 17.1 constant last night....I got to shift into 4th way before the end of the 1/4 mile mark...which means that it's slipping and letting my revs go up before time. The graph rpm vs time shows the drivetrain problem.
JJbrozak -- with a semi good clutch (before it really broke) I mananged to pull a 15.1 1/4 mile, the tires I'm using are not drag tires but are somewhat sticky, I'm planning on circuit racing in two months so I'm using proxes ra1s.
I want to try some BFgoodrich drag radials to see if I can pull some 1.xx 0-60'
Last edited by mperformance; 01-24-03 at 10:23 AM.
#29
Seven Is Coming
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I just used one like 3-4 months ago,How new can this new one be?Look back on the couple years that the G tec has been out,they are unaccurate.It works off the sound of your engine.If you put in yoru shifting time (rpm) wrong or you hit a bump in the road,or calibrate it wrong it wont give you right readings,I still will take my chances at the track,or a dyno..Have you ever used one?
~T.J.
#30
Rotors still spinning
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The G-tech is actually a fairly accurate device. The people who don't get good results with them: a) probably don't know what they are doing b) have never used one and say they have c) their cars are slower than they thought and are in denial. Sad but true. The ground has to be flat. No hills at all. It does NOT work off of the sound of your engine. If it did I'd just play a soundbyte of a top fuel dragster on my stereo when I used it. It is an accelerometer based device which calculates g-force intensity and mathematically derives how fast you should be going based on that info. Once you understand the actual physics and math associated with it, it becomes quite easy to see why they do work and why they can't be that far off. You can figure out horsepower with a stopwatch and calculator by timing acceleration over a known distance if you know what the car weighs (at least as accurate as it can) and what the formula is. Which leads me to why I don't trust the horsepower feature. It asks you to input nothing more than the weight of the car and uses this info when accelerating. Unless you know the exact weight of the vehicle (with you in it) at that exact moment in time its not going to be correct. Even then it doesn't account for gear ratios. Then again neither do rear wheel dynos. If they are so accurate then why do Australian dynos read different then ours? Who's is correct? Both can't be right and there can only be 1 true number. People just quote the higher numbers so their egos will be put to rest. Engine dynos are the only truly accurate horsepower measuring devices. The g-tech and wheel dynos should only be used to approximate horsepower to a roundabout figure. They will get you close. What would happen if you went to two different dragstrips and there was a slight glitch in the timing system which calibrated it wrong, even if only by a second or less? Would you know it? Probably not. So who's track timer is correct? The point is use whatever you want to determine relative performance of your car. If there was any one correct way of determining the exact performance of a car it would be the set in stone standard that the entire world used. There would be no other options. The g-tech is a quick easy alternative to driving a long way to a track or paying alot of money for dyno time which is only a run or so. You can continually use the g-tech over and over and see how weather affects your times of how that new mod affected your times without spending more money. Great device and well worth it!
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