how can i do this? im running in csp at the autox, and im looking to go faster (aren't we all). is there anything else besides the air conditioner and stereo that i can take out to get even a little bit lighter? technically, the a/c is the only thing i can remove, but they are very lenient (sp?) here. my mods are listed below. coming once i get some more $$ is a header, then full exhaust. but is there nothing else i can do for free to improve acceleration and/or handling??

 

Remove the heavy felt/rubber/lead padding beneath the rear carpet, as well as the spare tire and jack. Without knowing the rules...

 

I thought all GSL-SE models had Power steering. That thing really drags it down. I installed a RB header and lightweight flywheel, K&N air filter, no cats, air pump operated 6ports. Man, its got great pick up. But then I put the steering pump belt on and it really drags it down when its hooked up. Did Mazda make a regular non-power steering a option for that engine? I don't know..

 

P/S was an option on the -SE and the GSL, not standard.

 

true, the se that dave and i tore down didn't have p/s

 

Ads, you have already done the alignment stuff, right? A little toe out (1/8"), more caster and two degrees negative camber.

That is a quick way to pickup time on the autocross course.

 

wouldn't having no power steering be a pain at the autox??

wacky rotary, how did you have the air pump operate the 5th and 6th ports??

 

i've done alignment stuff on my own. i've got between 1/8 and 1/4 toe out. i rotated the strut tops in as much as possible, and i don't know how to adjust/measure caster. this is all done and toe measured in my driveway because im too cheap to take it and have it aligned for $50 or whatever it is.

 

Once you are moving, you really do not need p/s on a first gen. You only need it when you park and I don't worry about cones then.

 

I've said it in another thread.... had no problems parking with hot, gummy 205/60 R-compounds on zero offset (high scrub radius) 13x7 rims, and manual steering.

 

my fiero has no P/S... wide (235) tires, it's still pretty easy to park, it has a relatively quick steering ratio, too
as long as the car is moving (at all), it's easy to steer.
Power steering is for heavy luxury cars, FWD cars (more than 150HP), and grandmas.

 

so it's worth it to remove at least the p/s belt?

 

remove your P/S belt and drive the car around town for a few days
if you like it OK, remove the whole shebang. (might as well lose weight too!)
if your interior is crap anyways, get rid of it (rules allowing)
if not, well, you might be able to remove all the sound deadening crap under the carpet and just put the carpet back on..... lose weight, but still looks stock
this might be cheating, I dunno the rules in your area.

 

they're national scca rules for c-street prepared. i've removed the sound deadening in back and put the carpet back on, but up front it seems like a pretty big project. interior is supposed to stay stock, mines in good shape, so i can't take out everything. but i can get away with quite a bit as long as it LOOKS stock, no one ever checks at our events. right now i've taken out a/c, sound deadening in back, stereo and speakers, and i think some of the heater. i'll try that power steering or lack of p/s today

 

also, for better tight small turns use less caster. the more caster you dial in the more stable at higher speeds it becomes but harder to turn at slow apeeds. since you're autoxing and will rarely make it out of second, you'll need less caster. i definitely agree on the p/s. these cars are light enough to not be that much of a hand full. if anyhing lift bigger weights.

 

do you have any good starting points for caster #s? is caster adjusted with the tension rods? can't toe also be affected by the tension rods? thanks