$100T2

iTrader: (1)

I ran a power wire from the fuel pump straight to the battery, and got it to run. Which means, the problem is NOT my fuel pump, it's somewhere in the ******* wiring. Goddammit.

In the meantime, now that I took off the smog pump, my fan belt is now squeaking.

Well, I guess I can just go and exhange my new fuel pump for a fan belt and get some money back.

****.

Any wiring geniuses around that can tell me what is the problem? I have no electronics hooked up anywhere in the dash (because the dash is still out of the car...) could any of those be vital to the fuel pump? In the meantime, I'm seriously debating this:

I have a nice toggle switch just sitting here... Doing nothing. Who thinks I should just hard wire the fuel pump to the battery, wire it through the toggle switch (turning off the fuel pump is always good...) and hide the toggle switch under the seat or something?

Rogue_Wulff

Someone posted info about how to rewire the fuel pump relay on 84-85 models, when you remove the ECU. I cannot remember how to do this, but it was in the thread you started, back when it first quit running.
As for using a toggle switch, use it to activate a relay. This way, the pump is not relying on the switch to carry the load. A switch can carry the load for a while, then it will give up the ghost. When that occurs, you're dead in the water.

$100T2

iTrader: (1)

Well, I wired the switch in for now, where do I get a relay? (Probably right next to where I got the switch at Home Depot, right?)

darkfrost

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, definately use a relay. It will be much easier to wire it in than try to trace down the problem in the harness, and a toggle switch is always a good thing for minor flooding, and theft.

rotor vs. piston

I've been running switched for 4+ years and no issue at all. The wiring for the pump doesn't carry much jucie and just make sure your switch has a higher amp rating than what the pump draws.

BTW I was the one that posted the instructions, glad to see some others may get some use out of it.

Wish I was close by so I could come over and take a look. Now I'm just spitting in the wind because I can't see what you've done.

rmriggin

do a search, there was someone who had a post of where the relay was located, how to bypass it and if I remember right also how to replace it. I believe it is located on the right side underneith the steering column.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...uel+pump+relay

$100T2

iTrader: (1)

I took off that panel today and looked at removing the ECU... I don't know if that's my problem or not. In the meantime, the RB exhaust sounds nice... Nice low growl. I have to get a new fan belt, and I'm going to do the rat's nest removal from mazspeed... That should take care of the problems there. I like the idea of being able to have a switch for my fuel pump, but I would like to be able to run it like normal and only switch it off when I'm worried about theft.

darkfrost

iTrader: (1)

Then use a relay activated on acc power. It will run like normal in acc and on position. And you can turn it off when worried about theft, or need to de-flood.

That way it turns off with the car.

$100T2

iTrader: (1)

Seeing that I removed the rear bins, and stock stereo, would any of the power lines back there have enough power to run the fuel pump?

Alex-7

$100T2

iTrader: (1)

Anybody? Bueller? Bueller?

Right now, I have the power line to the fuel filter running like an amplifier line... Battery, through the firewall, along the floor, etc, etc. I'd really like to keep the amount of things connected at the battery to a minimum.

Rx7carl

Im looking for the same thread. Im not sure if I have a relay problem or a pump problem. Its mounted to the right side of the pedal cluster. Someone posted a diagram of what pins to jump. If I find it Ill post the link to it here.

Edit: Found the thread.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ighlight=relay