GM HEI ignitors instead of J109's ? How much are they ?
#1
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GM HEI ignitors instead of J109's ? How much are they ?
Are the GM HEI ignitors as good as the J109's ? Assuming I can get them at NAPA auto parts, does anyone have the part number ? Or what do I ask for ? How much are they ? I am itching to do the DLDFIS conversion.
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Originally Posted by DAVID GRIMES
Thanks a ton. That's easy enough and something I can use.
EDIT: Badda Boom.. here ya go: https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/ignition-dlidfis-installed-small-write-up-some-questions-216618/
#5
Here is something else that you should find useful. http://www.needfulthings.net/cgi-bin...ST;f=77;t=1511
It looks like the guy used the text from my DLIDFIS article, redid the DLIDFIS wiring diagram to show how to hook up HEI ignitors (lol, notice his wonky ground diagrams), and then posted a couple pics of my friend's 13B powered B2000 that I converted last year.
I used three HEI ignitors on it because both J-109s had burned out due to the PO's crappy wiring skills (both coils were running off of a single ignitor, which eventually killed it). Not only was there no LT (leading trailing) split, the ignitor died while I was driving it. It occasionally gave my friend some trouble, but it would always clear up in a couple seconds. Heh, then when I got behind the wheel, I think it was trying to tell me something.![Wink](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/wink.gif)
DLIDFIS made it run so much better.
It looks like the guy used the text from my DLIDFIS article, redid the DLIDFIS wiring diagram to show how to hook up HEI ignitors (lol, notice his wonky ground diagrams), and then posted a couple pics of my friend's 13B powered B2000 that I converted last year.
I used three HEI ignitors on it because both J-109s had burned out due to the PO's crappy wiring skills (both coils were running off of a single ignitor, which eventually killed it). Not only was there no LT (leading trailing) split, the ignitor died while I was driving it. It occasionally gave my friend some trouble, but it would always clear up in a couple seconds. Heh, then when I got behind the wheel, I think it was trying to tell me something.
![Wink](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/wink.gif)
DLIDFIS made it run so much better.
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Thanks again.
Jeff20B, It will be a few weeks, but I am going to make you proud ( and maybe even give you the definitive picture of installation style and grace ). We'll see
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#9
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Whenever he gets around to it, we're going to convert my friend's '79 over to electronic ignition by using the points to trigger HEI modules.
The points will last pretty much forever when used as a trigger switch instead of a load switch. The only gotcha is the spark will happen when the points *close*, not open, so you have to fiddle around a little.
The points will last pretty much forever when used as a trigger switch instead of a load switch. The only gotcha is the spark will happen when the points *close*, not open, so you have to fiddle around a little.
#10
That sounds about right there, peejay. Make him get a 2nd gen coil for leading too.
Any thoughts on Chrysler modules? They're big, bulky, and tend to work best with the reluctor wheel and pickup inductance of a Chrysler dizzy, but they can be triggered by points.
I'm currently messing with the LED circuits of my MegaSquirt as triggers for some J-109s. I needed to install some 1k pullup resistors from +5V to the negative lead of each LED (their function as status monitors on the front of the case are not affected). The triggering of the J-109 ocours when the LED switches from an off to an on state. The signal isn't an AC wave form from a VR sensor, but if appears to work with the J-109. It only seems to work when the trigger wire from the LED connects to the G terminal. The S terminal can either be grounded or not connected. I think in order to avoid a ground loop problem, I'll need to run two wires over to the S and G (VR sensor) inputs on the backs of the ignitors from nearly the same source (the DB37 connector on the back of the case) rather than simply connecting from S to a nearby mounting screw which holds the ignitor to the aluminum heat sink. Thoughts?
A similar setup has been tested with success by others with a GM HEI ignitor. If these J-109s get too hot, I'll have to replace them with HEIs. Good luck peejay, and I look forward to seeing a schematic or wiring diagram, if you can be coerced into drawing one.
![Big Grin](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I'm currently messing with the LED circuits of my MegaSquirt as triggers for some J-109s. I needed to install some 1k pullup resistors from +5V to the negative lead of each LED (their function as status monitors on the front of the case are not affected). The triggering of the J-109 ocours when the LED switches from an off to an on state. The signal isn't an AC wave form from a VR sensor, but if appears to work with the J-109. It only seems to work when the trigger wire from the LED connects to the G terminal. The S terminal can either be grounded or not connected. I think in order to avoid a ground loop problem, I'll need to run two wires over to the S and G (VR sensor) inputs on the backs of the ignitors from nearly the same source (the DB37 connector on the back of the case) rather than simply connecting from S to a nearby mounting screw which holds the ignitor to the aluminum heat sink. Thoughts?
A similar setup has been tested with success by others with a GM HEI ignitor. If these J-109s get too hot, I'll have to replace them with HEIs. Good luck peejay, and I look forward to seeing a schematic or wiring diagram, if you can be coerced into drawing one.
![Wink](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Last edited by Jeff20B; 01-01-05 at 03:21 PM.
#11
#12
Old [Sch|F]ool
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Eew! Why would he want an FC coil? Double ended coils suck.
If he wanted to spend the extra coin, it'd be better to have two separate coils and two separate modules on the leading. Or better yet, just get a damned MSD already instead of screwing around with a half-*** "upgrade".
If he wanted to spend the extra coin, it'd be better to have two separate coils and two separate modules on the leading. Or better yet, just get a damned MSD already instead of screwing around with a half-*** "upgrade".
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