--posted on race car tech but was ignored... heartbroken--
anyway, my car was completely cutting out in right hand corners in my race this weekend. once i got goin strait again the engine would come back to life. it hasn't done this before ever. it was around 80 degrees outside. someone please help!!!!!!!! the car cannot race on tracks at all with this problem!!!!!
(1984, strait through 2' exhaust w/ racing beat header, 2.5 inch test pipe where the long cat. was, emissions removed from carb and rats nest taken out, no other engine mods)

 

Are you sure it's not an electrical problem? The carb should hold plenty of fuel to keep the engine fed thru corners.

 

Maybe you need a dry sump or baffled oil pan. I experienced this when I had a hard turn with a low supply of oil. The engine is so oil dependent it has a shut-off when the pressure drops as might happen in a hard turn.

 

how much gas did you have in the tank when it was doing that?

 

Welcome to the forum Vincent. Nice try but the low oil warning is just that, a warning. I doesn't cut ignition.

Hyochem, to keep fuel to the intank pickup tube on hard, long turns, you need at least a 1/2 tank of fuel to prevent starvation.

 

Trochoid, that was my first thought, as well. But, he said it was doing this during right hand turns. Fuel pickup tube is on the left side of every 1st gen tank I have seen.
Could it be fuel slosh inside the carb?

 

trochoid, about the full tank.. unfortunately it was only about 6 gallons shy of full, and it did it on the drive home on a pretty full tank as well :/ my theory is that the g forces are pushing the fuel away from the carb and my fuel pump is about to go bad and can't overcome the force of the g's pushing the fuel away since it is pushing in the opposite direction. it might help to know that i lost my right rear wheel on saturday (the fuel problem occured both days, but to a much greater extent on sunday) when the wheel was lost i just spun on the track and it slid on the brake disc, didn't even go into the dirt, no big deal but regardless thought that might open up some new ideas

 

electrical problem: don't know alot about electricals, what might it be that would cause it to cut out only going right?

 

A loose connection in the ignition wiring. Could be anywhere from the battery, to the switch, to the coils. I wouldn't think it was a bare spot in a wire touching metal, or it would become more apparent after just a couple times of doing so.

 

Somedays I need to read better. Read right past the righthand turn and assumed left. 1st question is, is there any change in the sound of the fuel pump? Next question is, is it worse during hard acceleration or continuous high rpms?


The way the Nikki floats are setup, hard conering rarely ever causes a problem, unless the fuel flow/volume is lacking or there is an internal blockage in the carb itself. Rogue may be onto something also with bad electrics.

 

im dumb, i forgot something really weird. the car has been doing this thing, as follows: when i first go to start the car (no choke... racecar) it will start and stall, no big deal, but when i try to start it again it will turn to accesory (i can hear the fuel pump and all) then when i turn it to crank it will just click and nothing happens. if i go and vigorously wiggle (lol) all of the wires to the coils, distributor, kill switch, starter, etc, it will start up just fine. the first time it did this it was also doing some weird stuff w/ the headlights where if you turned them on they would pop up then not go back down for about 5 minutes... weird. this leads me to think it might be electrical as well. i couldn't answer your question about the sound of the fuel pump cuz i had in ear plugs and a helmet, etc but i didn't hear much of anything when it cut out... at all
about continuous rpms or hard acceleration: it just happened in every right hand corner at the road course at pueblo, CO..its racing so i guess continuous high rpm and hard acceleration?

 

Yep, it's time to start tracking down the loose connection(s) in the electrical system. Start at the battery, and check both cables. The start at the positive cable connection, and trace the smaller wire. It goes to the fuse link block, and splits from there.